project "C10 Fever" (68 factory black 396 swb)

[68bowtie]

I wasn't sure what PS hoses to buy to fit my CVF Racing setup, which has mid-mount alt and PS pump, so I just bought hoses that were supposed to work with a factory pump to start somewhere. Needless to say it was not a good fit, and would have conflicted with the inner fender. It probably would have worked, but not for me.



I couldn't find any info on this particular arrangement, so I poured over images on Summit and other sites for all kinds of PS hoses, with a basic idea of what shape I needed. I ended up going with these part numbers, which worked pretty good!

return line: inlinetube.com part no. for 71-72 trucks
pressure line: edelmann 70911 from summit (not a direct fit application)

And I bought an OEM ps line frame clamp from a forum member to finish it off.

[68bowtie]

The driver side header (Sanderson BB8) bolted right in, no conflict anywhere.



The passenger side was another story.

1. I have wavered back and forth about pulling my th350 (functional, in the truck) and rebuilding my th400. I have the parts, it's just that I'm trying to draw a line so I can move closer to getting this thing on the road. If I pull the drivetrain, I'll end up replacing the driveline and diff (I have a set of posi 4.11's also) and then I'll decide to pull the cab, etc, etc. So anyway, I leave the thing in there, and go to bolt in my headers and wham. The th350 dust shield flange is freaking huge, and sticks out at least 1/2-inch too wide. It hits the header flange. So I cut and grind and cut and grind the trans flange, and finally get it to clear (thankfully with the fenders off, I could sort of reach in there). Problem solved. Which leads to the second issue.

2. Now that the trans clears, the starter solenoid case hits the side of the headers. I already bought the wrong starter once, which was for the wrong flywheel teeth apparently. So I bought another that's correct for the flywheel, but hits the headers. So I am frustrated at this point, and ended up carefully and surgically (not, ha ha it's called a BFH) recessed a small portion of the header to clear the solenoid. Fortunately I got these cheap, and no one will see it anyway. I would have bought another starter, but I would have had to buy a $100+ mini-starter, and there was still a chance it might not have worked. Anyway, I got it to clear. After I knew it would work, I pulled it back out, and mocked up the trans cooler lines. They run RIGHT in the exhaust path just below the header. LOL! I'll deal with that later. Headers are installed.... I made sure to wire up the starter first, because it will NOT be easy getting in there later if needed.

[68bowtie]

A couple minor updates.

I removed the 1/4” rubber pads from between the frame and the bed. Didn’t really need them anyway, and wow the body lines actually line up now. Yay! It’s the small things... Must be an optical illusion because I could swear the bed was 3/4” high before. I also modified the battery tray under the bed to drop it down another inch to have more clearance above the terminals.



I started working out my engine bay wiring plan. I’ve figured out where/how I’m gonna hide everything. I modified a wiring diagram for the updates...

Electric fans
Electric water pump
1-wire alternator
HEI distributor
Side marker lights
Battery relocated under bed
Jumper terminals on the core support
Other minor tweaks to match 68 wiring

[jlsanborn]

Looking good!

[SCOTI]

Those caps!

[68bowtie]

Making some progress on the electrical underhood.

[68bowtie]

A few more small updates.

Fuses and relays tucked into the core support under the factory battery location.



Installed the trans cable bracket, which conflicts with the throttle linkage, so I ordered some stainless spacers (3/8” and 3/4”) and longer bolts. Very rigid connection so I think it works well. I wanted to keep the factory style accelerator setup. I still need to secure a few plug wires so they don’t rub.

[68bowtie]

I also started into my doors. Basically replacing all the guts.

Step 1 restoring the wing windows. New latches and seals. The trim is pretty good, and they are the original soft ray glass. Figured out I don’t have the right rivet tool, so everything is on hold til I get the tool. I had to drill out some of the holes a smidge wider since the rivets wouldn’t go in, I hope that wasn’t a mistake.







New latches, regulators, control relays, lock cylinders, window cranks, interior and exterior door handles, new hardware and all new seals, and reusing original soft ray glass. All paused since the vent windows go in next...

[KevinK7]

That engine/bay is looking amazing
Thanks for posting the detail on the vent window restore. I'm holding off tearing into my doors yet, trying to avoid totally dismantling the truck lol

[68bowtie]

Thanks! Maybe I'll post a few more pictures of the secondvent window once I get through the first one (not really sure what I'm doing yet lol!)

[First c10]

I bought the aircraft rivet tool for like 80$. It worked good but was a lot of work to get everything to line up and work together... all the moving parts. I have a black set of wing windows rebuilt for a forum member if interested..
Truck is looking good!!! Love the big block!!!

[68bowtie]

Originally Posted by First c10

I bought the aircraft rivet tool for like 80$. It worked good but was a lot of work to get everything to line up and work together... all the moving parts. I have a black set of wing windows rebuilt for a forum member if interested..
Truck is looking good!!! Love the big block!!!

Thanks!!

[68bowtie]

Well I've made a bit of progress recently.

Both vent windows are finished (I posted a thread in the general forum with detailed photos). It was a pain, but worth the effort. Here's a pic of the newly installed soft-ray glass.

[68bowtie]

I also repaired the speaker holes that the PO apparently cut in the kick panels with a spoon.

[68bowtie]

Still working on fixing the passenger door speaker hole. I have been keeping around a junk door for this patch panel.

Before (yikes) I seriously can't figure out how someone did this...



Donor door...



Repair in progress...

[68bowtie]

I have the seat out for the kick panel work, and it's still out so I can more easily install soft-ray in the back window. Having trouble getting that installed at the moment. I have done it before once by myself, this one is not going in so easily for some reason. Oh, and there's that original white cab paint...



I trimmed down a piece of a dash I had laying around and used it to cover up the nasty radio hole. I just glued it over the front, recessed in the depression. Good enough to attach a radio delete.



New door sill plates and new precision door seals. And lastly, I got my restored 6-piece seat belt set installed. Thanks atog!

[SCOTI]

Nice 'repair' panel for the radio hack.

[68bowtie]

Did a few interior updates, inspired in part by KevinK7’s thread. Sold my cracked OE fawn wheel, bought a nice blue one off ebay and fixed it up. Also touching up some of the vinyl parts, like the dash that was OE but way darker than the other vinyl pieces.

[68bowtie]

Also got my radiator & fans ready to install. Of course found the lower radiator hose doesn’t fit, so I have a few parts coming to help fix that situation.

[KevinK7]

Great work on the wheel and dash
Truck is looking awsome

[68bowtie]

Finally got around to finishing the engine wiring. Not very satisfying when you hide it all, there’s not much to see.

Still fiddling with the lower radiator hose situation, once I get past that hurdle I should be able to finally get the front end back together.

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by 68bowtie

Finally got around to finishing the engine wiring. Not very satisfying when you hide it all, there’s not much to see.

Attachment 2028225

What I can’t see looks amazing!!

[clay68c10]

I really like those jumper posts, nice idea.

[68bowtie]

Got the interior finished. Also got my inner fenders back from being painted. I tried to work on them myself a while back and learned I was not cut out for body work. So I had a painter friend hook me up. Next step will be exhaust.

[68bowtie]

Originally Posted by clay68c10

I really like those jumper posts, nice idea.

Thanks. It gave me a convenient place to terminate the other loads up front too.