TA_C10: Stage 1

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by Scurry67

Dang man you're making some serious moves! Looks like you're getting some good shop time in and a lot of work done. Keep it up! Enjoying the pictures.

Thanks, yeah I have been out in the garage everyday since Sunday. I am really trying to get er dun

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

Dakota Digital!! I need your budget to help me finish mine Can't wait to see those installed.

Well I sold another car to pay for this one I have more coming to finish this thing up soon. I'm hoping to have exhaust done by next week. Then I mount the remote trans cooler. Put grease in all the suspension. Install the torque converter. Put the support straps on the fuel tank. And the cab goes back on for good. I'm thinking 2 weeks I should have all this done. Which means more like 3 weeks lol... That's how it always ends up for me.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Thanks, yeah I have been out in the garage everyday since Sunday. I am really trying to get er dun




Well I sold another car to pay for this one I have more coming to finish this thing up soon. I'm hoping to have exhaust done by next week. Then I mount the remote trans cooler. Put grease in all the suspension. Install the torque converter. Put the support straps on the fuel tank. And the cab goes back on for good. I'm thinking 2 weeks I should have all this done. Which means more like 3 weeks lol... That's how it always ends up for me.

You have been kicking butt. I wish the accomplishments were always in direct proportion to the efforts like that. It's taken me 3 days (6-9ish PM) just to get a steering shaft & my Square body dually ready for a swap. I can't have it sitting in front of the shop blocking the fire-lane during business hours & my neighbor is being an A** (his company/group block the closest, reachable parking spot(s) w/a flat surface for raising the truck/parking overnight) so it's a process:

Tuesday:

• Get tools & equipment set-up to work.

• Pull things apart to test fit new stuff.

• ID issues & ensure each end assembles as it should w/o difficulty.

• Re-assemble old stuff to relocate truck.

• Put tools & equipment away.

Wednesday:

• Get tools & equipment set-up to work.

• Remove parts again to re-test assembly & verify final measurements w/better lighting.

• Inspect any other possible issues.

• Reassemble old stuff to relocate truck.

• Put tools & equipment away.

Tonight will be:

• Get tools & equipment set-up to work.

• Remove old parts & w/fingers crossed, final install of the new part.

Hopefully installation goes well & it will be the last effort. If not, I get to reassemble the old stuff for another day/another attempt.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

You have been kicking butt. I wish the accomplishments were always in direct proportion to the efforts like that. It's taken me 3 days (6-9ish PM) just to get a steering shaft & my Square body dually ready for a swap. I can't have it sitting in front of the shop blocking the fire-lane during business hours & my neighbor is being an A** (his company/group block the closest, reachable parking spot(s) w/a flat surface for raising the truck/parking overnight) so it's a process:

Hopefully installation goes well & it will be the last effort. If not, I get to reassemble the old stuff for another day/another attempt.

Yeah but your doing a full resto trailer queen aren't ya? It takes longer to do such things However that is a lot of extra work to have to tear it down and build it up over and over man. That is just painful reading it....


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[TA_C10]

Update - Started on Exhaust


My exhaust finally came in.... For the second time.... First package was damaged in shipping and one of the 4' pieces was missing... hmmmmm... Anyway. I was trying desperately to just reuse the 3" exhaust that the PO had on it but it just wasn't going to work. The new routing screwed it all up. So I started looking for the cheapest kit I could find thinking I would just use what I already had, get a few new bends and straight pieces, and weld'em together. Well this doesn't really exist unless you go to Home Depot and use their fence posts lol, even then you need a bender.

So I found a builder kit on Amazon for $169, came with 2 4' straight pieces, 2 U-bends, 2 90's, and 2 45's. Steel. But then right next to it was the exact same kit in SS and it was the same exact price..... So I bought stainless. Crazy.

Now I don't have the gas to weld stainless, nor do I have the stainless wire for my mig welder, so don't kill me when use .025 steel wire to weld this up. I don't care, the original plan is still in play, I just happened to get SS on the cheap. Unless someone has a better idea that doesn't cost me anymore money

Sure looks good, I made my first cut last night and stuck it in a band clamp. It's gonna clear my E-Brake rod, whew.... I'm using band clamps until I am ready to finalize it.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Yeah but your doing a full resto trailer queen aren't ya? It takes longer to do such things However that is a lot of extra work to have to tear it down and build it up over and over man. That is just painful reading it....


.

Naw…. That work described was just maint/repairs for my Dually. It's far from a trailer queen. It's just a clean, OG paint truck w/a certain areas upgraded & detailed. But, those simple repairs taking longer than they should interferes w/the 64's quality time .

Nice work!
Does kicking it up to clear the trans x-member hurt or help the angle/height where it routes through the T/A x-member exhaust holes?

[1971Stepside]

I have the holes in my cross member for the exhaust and went with the Dingo trans cross member so didn't have to jump up right at the header, but it looks like I will have to go up just beyond that. I would like the headers to be about 2" higher. I'm sure interested in the kit you ordered though. Trying to decide if I want to do this or just take it to a shop. Are you going to H-Pipe it behind the trans?

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Gothcha. Your trans x-member looks like what I used. I put a 3/4 wood spacer under the pipe/on top of the x-member to ensure good clearance when building mine (it will drop a hair & allows 1/2 - 3/4 gap).

That's good info on the sag. I will do the same. I just looked at your build page on your exhaust and I will probably do something similar. Do you have pics of your headers leading into the exhaust? Would be nice to see what you got going on in that area. Thanks.

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

I have the holes in my cross member for the exhaust and went with the Dingo trans cross member so didn't have to jump up right at the header, but it looks like I will have to go up just beyond that. I would like the headers to be about 2" higher. I'm sure interested in the kit you ordered though. Trying to decide if I want to do this or just take it to a shop. Are you going to H-Pipe it behind the trans?

That trans x-member looks nice for this reason. I am planning on doing something similar to SCOTI exhaust, but not the awesomeness in the rear he did lol, I will be going under the rear x-member and U-Turn it over the axle and then dump them towards the sides right behind the rear wheels. I don't want them to be seen. I am also going to copy SCOTI on his H-Pipe idea.

EDIT: And here is the kit I bought from Amazon. It seems pretty decent stuff to me, but I am no expert. It's all individually wrapped with bubble wrap and already polished(not perfect but not bad either).

https://www.amazon.com/BLACKHORSE-RA...gateway&sr=8-3

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

That's good info on the sag. I will do the same. I just looked at your build page on your exhaust and I will probably do something similar. Do you have pics of your headers leading into the exhaust? Would be nice to see what you got going on in that area. Thanks.

I'm not running headers on this one. I used Speedways version of the Ramhorn manifolds. I'm ok w/the power loss to get the desired look.

[cornerstone]

I hemmed and hawed for days over the stainless option. Its crazy how cheap those kits are, and who doesn't like a shiney exhaust system. I was thinking I could tack everything in place and take it to a local shop who welds stainless professionally. After I wasted enough time kicking that around in my head, I chickened out and just went with aluminized steel. Over all I'm happy with my results, but I am curious to see how yours turns out, so please post your results...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

I hemmed and hawed for days over the stainless option. Its crazy how cheap those kits are, and who doesn't like a shiney exhaust system. I was thinking I could tack everything in place and take it to a local shop who welds stainless professionally. After I wasted enough time kicking that around in my head, I chickened out and just went with aluminized steel. Over all I'm happy with my results, but I am curious to see how yours turns out, so please post your results...

If someone chooses to tack it together & then have it welded elsewhere, build it in sections. SS is bad about moving once welded. Also, the pipes will be shiny but the welded areas won't be if Mig welded. The carbon @ the weld area still corrodes. It's easy enough to coat w/some paint but I just wanted those that may not know the SS/Mig process of welding seams still corrodes.

I tack mine together w/SS wire + gas using my Mig @ 3pts on the tubing seam for fitting & try to keep sections @ 3-4' max lengths. When they get welded, they are re-tacked w/the Tig torch between my Mig tacks. We then cut/grind the Mig tacks out. The Tig stumbles & does not like going over the Mig tacks. My stuff is back-purged as well. When you're done, you only need to buff the seam out.

My dually (entire exhaust except headers) & 64 (except tailpipes) were done that way. The SS turns to a tan/grey/nickle appearing color @ its warmest points. The rest stays unturned. Pretty easy to use red Scotch-Brite pads for keeping them shiny. Also, SS is susceptable to the oils on your person. Be careful when poking around things because your fingerprints will cook into the tubes @ those warm areas & will then require more effort to remove once cooked in (guess how I learned that ).

[TA_C10]

Update - Exhaust going in


I went out of town this weekend so not much time on the truck. Got an hour or so yesterday to cut a couple pieces and start tacking them in. Had to zig a little here, zag over there, but it lines up real nice. I have decided to cut into my transmission x-member though. I found out taking a 90 degree tube and cutting it right in half then turning one piece around made the perfect height needed to match the straight pipe going to back of truck. Problem is it hits the trans x-member just a little so I have some 3/16 plate left over I am going to notch it on top and run the exhaust over it. The x-member is only 1/8 steel box so the 3/16 should help keep the strength up. We shall see.

[1971Stepside]

Looking good. I wish I had and knew how to use a TIG.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

Looking good. I wish I had and knew how to use a TIG.

Me too... I am thinking of quoting a shop to do it but we'll see. Hey is your quote out of Joe Walsh song? Big fan. Big eagles fan too. That was the album he made after he joined the eagles and had them all play on it. Netflix had the eagles documentary for a while and I think I watched that like 6 times... Hell of a story.


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[1971Stepside]

Me too... I am thinking of quoting a shop to do it but we'll see. Hey is your quote out of Joe Walsh song? Big fan. Big eagles fan too. That was the album he made after he joined the eagles and had them all play on it. Netflix had the eagles documentary for a while and I think I watched that like 6 times... Hell of a story.

Yep, big Eagles fan here too.

[TA_C10]

Update - Exhaust halfway done

Friday I was able to weld up the pipes from headers back to muffler flanges. I am using v-band clamps. I got 2 clamps from Summit(their brand) and then bought 4 more clamps on amazon. The amazon ones are fine, but the summit brand clamps are much larger and well thought out design. They are more expensive of course. But I think these amazon clamps are going to be just fine. I used the summit quality clamps on the headers. Cheaper clamps at the rear of long pipe.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Update - Exhaust halfway done

Friday I was able to weld up the pipes from headers back to muffler flanges. I am using v-band clamps. I got 2 clamps from Summit(their brand) and then bought 4 more clamps on amazon. The amazon ones are fine, but the summit brand clamps are much larger and well thought out design. They are more expensive of course. But I think these amazon clamps are going to be just fine. I used the summit quality clamps on the headers. Cheaper clamps at the rear of long pipe.

Are you just doing single bursts for the weld & then moving along after each previous spot cools? Kind of looks like that. Appears clean & seems like you got decent penetration.

[MDPotter]

What are you welding your exhaust with? I was planning on using my MIG with the C25 mix (same as for steel) with stainless wire. From what I've read, it won't be the prettiest weld, but it's exhaust so I'm not going for a perfect weld.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

For every "LS swap everything" guy that screams about how great the 'no-leak' LS swap candidates are vs. the old 'leaky sbc', I hear a real world admission that what do you know.... LS motors can leak as well.

Bummer it happened. But, better now vs. w/the body installed.

Thanks man. And anyone who says that ain't all there

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Are you just doing single bursts for the weld & then moving along after each previous spot cools? Kind of looks like that. Appears clean & seems like you got decent penetration.

I went through a couple different scenarios welding the pipe. Pipe to Pipe I welded it together like single burst tacking sheet metal. For pipe to flange however, I was able to hit high on previous weld and drag the puddle. And I was dragging the puddle equivalent to 2-3 spot welds. Great penetration this way through the thicker flange but not burning through the thinner pipe.

Originally Posted by MDPotter

What are you welding your exhaust with? I was planning on using my MIG with the C25 mix (same as for steel) with stainless wire. From what I've read, it won't be the prettiest weld, but it's exhaust so I'm not going for a perfect weld.

I ended up using my mig with mild steel .025 wire. I plan to paint the welds with high temp paint. I was buying mild steel pipe but the SS was same price.....

[TA_C10]

And then this happened..... All my weekend plans were screwed.... I removed the trans to install my torque converter and found the rear main was leaking. I'm glad I ran the engine a couple times before I installed everything or I would have never caught this until after.... But. I was really hoping to just use all the existing items that came with engine, seals, water pump, timing chain, oil pump, etc..... In 3-5 years I plan to do some cool upgrades(stage 2) so I was hoping to get lucky but of course, now that I have this thing apart, I'm replacing all this stuff....

I priced everything at AZ just to see a price difference, and RockAuto was $200 cheaper for everything I ordered, AND they are better parts! The more I use RockAuto the more I like them. Just have to pay/wait for shipping.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

And then this happened..... All my weekend plans were screwed.... I removed the trans to install my torque converter and found the rear main was leaking. I'm glad I ran the engine a couple times before I installed everything or I would have never caught this until after.... But. I was really hoping to just use all the existing items that came with engine, seals, water pump, timing chain, oil pump, etc..... In 3-5 years I plan to do some cool upgrades(stage 2) so I was hoping to get lucky but of course, now that I have this thing apart, I'm replacing all this stuff....

I priced everything at AZ just to see a price difference, and RockAuto was $200 cheaper for everything I ordered, AND they are better parts! The more I use RockAuto the more I like them. Just have to pay/wait for shipping.

For every "LS swap everything" guy that screams about how great the 'no-leak' LS swap candidates are vs. the old 'leaky sbc', I hear a real world admission that what do you know.... LS motors can leak as well.

Bummer it happened. But, better now vs. w/the body installed.

[TA_C10]

Parts list from RockAuto for reference:



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[TA_C10]

I bought this rethread kit. It's thread cleaners, not taps. It will fix threads but doesn't cut new ones. Love this thing.








I can figure out pitches of bolt holes easily with this, as for instance my transmission mount.

Trans to x-member threads are 10 x 1.5 thread pitch if anyone wants to know that.






I took my trans apart to check it. The guys I got motor from seemed kinda shady but so far, aside from the rear main seal leak(which this motor has 140,000 on it so this isn't his fault i'm sure) has been pretty decent. Motor runs good, I have seen much of the internals of the engine and it seems in solid condition. Now that I have seen the inside of the trans, I am confident it is what he says it is. He told me he takes these 4l60e trans and upgrades their components to basically a 4L65E standard. It's clean inside. And I can tell it's been greased where you would take the valve body apart and replace components so here's to a glass half full this guy is honest

[TA_C10]

Update - Gas Tank Straps


SCOTI you kept me up at night man. I couldn't find any data out there on the interwebs on whether or not the mounting flange on these LMC 21 gallon tanks was strong enough to hold itself between the rails with just bolts so I busted out the straps and called it a day

So these straps are fine. They are galvanized metal. I also bought the black strips that protect the straps from scratching the tank which is a good idea now that I see what's going on. BUT. The straps are folded on the end and overlap back down the ends to double them up for strength but they used a cheap method of spot welding them together and they all pretty much popped apart on me. So I drilled a hole in the first layer and used the mig to spot weld them myself back together. All good. You can see in one of my pics how one of them popped and is bowed out before I fixed it. On the other pic you can see how I spot welded them myself.

Also, I previously welded nuts to the back of a couple strips of galvanized sheet I cut to make top frame brackets to bolt the tank to. I didn't like the J-Hooks that LMC sends to use. Those J-Hooks would tear through my freshly painted frame. So I used my brackets I made earlier(see earlier posts in my thread on how I made them) and instead of J-Hooks I used long grade 5 bolts instead. Worked like a charm and I control how tight these straps get








And here is how I had them mounted before the straps. And these are good pics of the flanges on the tank. Probably not strong enough like SCOTI brought up...








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[TA_C10]

More pics on my thread chasers. Cleaning my flywheel bolt holes here.

Dirty threads:
now
Clean threads:







I use a little oil to clean them with.







Come out clean as a whistle.

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[TA_C10]

Cornerstone thanks for letting me know my pics didn't show. I fixed my last three posts so the pictures should be working now....

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