Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"

[67c10rustbuket]

Here is the bed in its new temporary home untill the frame is nice and pretty.

I found this marking on the front of the bed "780X" dont know what it means but that's kind of cool finding stuff like that, all the firewall markings are long gone thanks to multiple crappy paint jobs.

Here is the frame, not too bad looking. Also my stash of body parts hiding against the wall. The frame had a nasty trailer hitch welded on the rear that was made out of .375 strap plate. It was cut off a few years ago. I had to cut a little off the bottom flange of the frame due to the disgusting stick weld installation but I plan on welding a piece of rectangle tube at the rear to protect my gas tank anyways. There is also a real nice dimple under the rear of the cab that looks like some boob used a bottle jack with a 1" head to lift the truck so that will have to be pressed back out.

Also have to weld the rest of the cab corner that I could not reach with the bed on.

[El Campo]

I believe that you will need different tie rod adjustment sleeves or inner tie rods. The 73+ outer tie rods are 11/16 and the 67-70 are 5/8 (IIRC). I am using 72 inner tie rods and they are also 11/16. I got the billet aluminum sleeves from ridetech for 50 bucks from Summit. The reason that you cannot use a 73+ inner tie rod is because the stud that goes through the center link is too big I believe. BUT a 71 or 72 fits perfectly in the center link hole as well as has the bigger end that the adjuster screws onto. There are also some bastard tie rod adjusters I think.

[El Campo]

Sweet roof piece!!!!!!!!! I need one of those!

[DD1]

Looking good, Dan. Had to make a post to re-subscribe. Keep hitting the unsubscribe link on the email by mistake.
Posted via Mobile Device

[jhaymon]

Yea I have the Western Chassis 2.5" drop spindles for '73+. From what I know I need 73+ ball joints and outer tie rods, inner rods and control arm bushings/shafts and everything else would be for '67. The only thing Im not totally sure on is the tie rod adjusting sleeves, I think you can use either?

im using and 81 front(spindles, brakes, upper and lower control arms).everything from the pre 73 is just a bit bigger than the post 73. I did replace the u-bolt on the lower control arms and moded the sleeves so they would tighten down on the post 73 outers, but everything else just bolted right in with no real issues

[67cheby]

Looking good
Posted via Mobile Device

[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by El Campo

I believe that you will need different tie rod adjustment sleeves or inner tie rods. The 73+ outer tie rods are 11/16 and the 67-70 are 5/8 (IIRC). I am using 72 inner tie rods and they are also 11/16. I got the billet aluminum sleeves from ridetech for 50 bucks from Summit. The reason that you cannot use a 73+ inner tie rod is because the stud that goes throught the center link is too big I believe. BUT a 71 or 72 fits perfectly in the center link hole as well as has the bigger end that the adjuster screws onto. There are also some bastard tie rod adjusters I think.

Thanks for the info on the adjuster sleeves I appreciate it. I will probably order the rest of the front this eve.

Originally Posted by El Campo

Sweet roof piece!!!!!!!!! I need one of those!

Yeah It's going to be a fun operation! pics of the donor coming right up!

Originally Posted by DD1

Looking good, Dan. Had to make a post to re-subscribe. Keep hitting the unsubscribe link on the email by mistake.
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks D, I almost do that all the time on my stupid phone I probably have and didn't realize it.

Originally Posted by jhaymon

im using and 81 front(spindles, brakes, upper and lower control arms).everything from the pre 73 is just a bit bigger than the post 73. I did replace the u-bolt on the lower control arms and moded the sleeves so they would tighten down on the post 73 outers, but everything else just bolted right in with no real issues

Thanks for the info, I have to buy some new u bolt also one of mine was bigger than the other three

Originally Posted by 67cheby

Looking good
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks Mike!

Here is the roof donor, well it donated a lot of parts actually including the doors. I traded a beat long bed 69 for this farm rod hilbilly truck than parted and scrapped it. Check out the custom back half

[fakerwade]

Check out the custom back half

Dude that's pretty wacky!!!

[mcbassin]

Nice progress Dan.

[67cheby]

hmmm....interesting ! lol

[bjcaldwe]

Nice progress man. I am glad to see you got the fence project done.

[suspect]

why didn't you just swap out that entire cab? after i got my frame blasted, there's a few different numbers stamped on it in various places. the frame id is near the power steering and also where the drivers side cab sits, and some other numbers around.

[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by fakerwade

Dude that's pretty wacky!!!

Originally Posted by 67cheby

hmmm....interesting ! lol

Yeah it was crazy, thought I could use the cab but it turned out the floor was way worse than mine since the windows were open and it was used as a dog house for some time. You should see the "ladder bars" I'll try to find that pic later.

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Nice progress Dan.

Thanks Mike, should get some more done between now and monday.

Originally Posted by bjcaldwe

Nice progress man. I am glad to see you got the fence project done.

Me too! im no fencer that was a pain. Heading to lowes to finish a couple more honey dos.

[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by suspect

why didn't you just swap out that entire cab? after i got my frame blasted, there's a few different numbers stamped on it in various places. the frame id is near the power steering and also where the drivers side cab sits, and some other numbers around.

Good question Daniel, I always wanted a '67 small window so a replacement would have to be a small window cab. Any good rust free cabs are hard to find here. If I knew the extent of rust when I bought this turd off ebay ("rust in the typical areas") I would have never bought it.
Well I did buy it so then I was left to decide. After owning 3 others that were similar or slightly less rusty I decided to just fix mine. So to explain in short my reasons are: Stubbornness, lack of availability, and originality. While my cab is rough it does have matching frame vin, cab vin with original rivets, and matching glovebox spid vin. which none of my previous ones had. No monkey business on this one so I thought I should do it justice and save it. I have seen others do much more extensive repairs than I am doing (jezebel!!!!, by sgaylord the legend) I guess the originality is just important to me when it comes to the VINs being originally attached and all matching. Now if someone were to make replacement cabs and the funky rivets were still available then I may consider swapping to a new cab. but swapping mine for a less rusty one that will have similar issues down the road I decided to fix mine.

Here are a few vin pics cuz everyone loves pics! Happy 4th

[67c10rustbuket]

This truck was fully loaded from the factory! check out these options, can't read some of the letters and numbers but here they are.

PAINT 4537AD -I'm assuming it means 507 lt blue with a white top. That is what it looks like on the hidden layers of original paint and has multiple wrong blues over it,

4??OBA HD REAR SPRING
4P?3HC SM WHEEL CARRIER
4Z?2AA FOAM SEAT
4614AB BLUE VINYL TRIM

4V38AB PAINTED REAR BUMPER
4B98AA SIDE TRIM MOLD EQ
4C42?? DELUXE AIR HEATER

[suspect]

I understand your reasoning. Being particular and having a passion is the way to get these classics built.
Once I rivet my vin plate back on, I'm going to use my drimel tool and grind the rivet head
to look original.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Tinkermc]

lookin good

[tantrumpipeline]

looks like a good score and a lot of work ahead, look forward to the progress

[suspect]

if you take your frame to the blaster on a weekday, swing by my shop at noon and pick me up and i'll go over there with you, it's only just down the road. i only met him once but i told him about your wanting to blast your frame also. he knows i'm with tp machine, tp's been using them for 15+ yrs, so hopefully he'll speed it up for you.

[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by suspect

I understand your reasoning. Being particular and having a passion is the way to get these classics built.
Once I rivet my vin plate back on, I'm going to use my drimel tool and grind the rivet head
to look original.
Posted via Mobile Device

thats a pretty good idea, might be something to play around with in the furure, still bugs me about trying to paint with the plate on there but I dont want to remove it.

Originally Posted by Tinkermc

lookin good

Thanks !

Originally Posted by tantrumpipeline

looks like a good score and a lot of work ahead, look forward to the progress

Thanks, that old 68 was acquired shortly before I bought the 67 (a few years ago can't remember). I didnt take long to decide that it was scrap! Definitely a lot of work ahead but a little at a time it will get there.

Originally Posted by suspect

if you take your frame to the blaster on a weekday, swing by my shop at noon and pick me up and i'll go over there with you, it's only just down the road. i only met him once but i told him about your wanting to blast your frame also. he knows i'm with tp machine, tp's been using them for 15+ yrs, so hopefully he'll speed it up for you.

Yeah I will call you when I get it ready, I have the trailer lined up just have to work in this heat I appreciate the help.


Here are a few pics!!
Got my ball joints out of the arms and my 3 deliveries of Moog parts are in, now I just need an idler arm and pitman arm. That and get a wrench big enough to take the caps off of the arms. spent about $375 on Moog parts.

[67c10rustbuket]

My little helper and I removed the seat Okay she just sat there and smiled asking "what happened?"

I removed everything attached to the cab so it is ready to remove from the frame. I need to go shopping for some dolly wheels and figure out what to make to set the cab on. still thinking about what to do there.

[67c10rustbuket]

And a preview of the pass side rust that will need the same treatment as the driver side.

[67c10rustbuket]

It is way too hot so I am going to have to take another shower and take the girls out for dinner. Hopefully do a little more this evening.

[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by MJs69CST

Stay cool and have fun with the family.

Thanks we did have some fun, family is the best!

After mowing the yard today I got the wire wheel on the old grinder and did some investigating on the donor roof. The top side looks great with zero rust but the inner will need a patch at least but I will likely just buy the inner skin repair panel and that way I can remove the old inner skin and coat the inside with POR15 to stop this horrid design that promotes self disintegration. Too hot to get much more done today. Here are the pics...

[El Campo]

Hey dude now would be a great time to really quiet the truck down with some sound deadener in the roof. Thats what I am planning on doing to mine when I take the skin off. They say that a lot of your sound and most of your heat comes through the ceiling. Check out this link if you are interested:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld
Even if you were feeling cheap I think that some of these tiles would do wonders. And I figured up how many you need and its only about 30 bucks for them. I am going to do the whole shebang on mine and put tiles plus the MLV plus the closed cell foam in my roof because I drive a Ford (which has the best AC in the world IMO) and wont be satisfied unless it is a virtual refrigorator in the 72 also.
P.S. donor roof skin looks AMAZING!!!