Carolina K10, 1979 Reg cab short bed.

[bohmankid]

Good luck. My Dirty Dingo mounts were hitting the cross member in the exact same spot. It seems like I slid the motor almost as far back as it would go.

Did you make any modifications to the tranny crossmember?
Did you have to move it forward/back to make up for the difference in length, if any?

[y5mgisi]

You might just try spacing the motor up a little with some thick washers.

[TheBlueBomber]

Originally Posted by bohmankid

Good luck. My Dirty Dingo mounts were hitting the cross member in the exact same spot. It seems like I slid the motor almost as far back as it would go.

Did you make any modifications to the tranny crossmember?
Did you have to move it forward/back to make up for the difference in length, if any?

I'm going to just unbolt the engine and start over. I've been at it for the past 2 hours and I can't get it to slide any more back. I haven't messed with the crossmember yet. My focus right now is getting this motor lined up. What does the clearance look like now that you've slid it back?

Originally Posted by y5mgisi

You might just try spacing the motor up a little with some thick washers.

That's another option. The mounts came with two washers one of them being a lock washer and that's not enough. I'm going to try sliding it back some more and if it doesn't work washers and a hammer will.


I've made a little progress though!!!

[TheBlueBomber]

So close I can feel it. Pulled the motor back out and I'm about 1/8th of an inch away from what I need. Going to out more washers between the bracket and the motor and I'll see if that'll do the trick.

[NastyBuzzard]

Wait a minute. Maybe I am confused but you used the correct dirty dingo mounts and it still isnt right or needs modification?

I am shocked that the $130+ swap mounts don't make it just go right in like it should.

I was going to order myself a set on monday but now I am worried. I have a 87 single cab long bed 4x4.

[bohmankid]

If I were you I would Play with the stock mounts a little. I know you can put those mounts in multiple positions with those 3 bolts. Try lifting up the motor and sliding those stock mounts up an eighth of an inch. Also, dirty Dingo must have changed their design , your mounts don't look like mine..

[bohmankid]

It wouldn't hurt to give their customer service a call as well.

[NastyBuzzard]

Yes I just noticed those mounts you have don't look like the ones I'm looking at ordering... Did they change their design and not update the picture? Weird maybe they sent u the wrong ones??

Here's ones I am trying to purchase.
http://dirtydingo.com/store/product_...1369%7B15%7D52

[tinydb84]

They changed the design (likely cheaper to produce). I reinforced mine (I plan to turbo one day).

[TheBlueBomber]

Originally Posted by bohmankid

If I were you I would Play with the stock mounts a little. I know you can put those mounts in multiple positions with those 3 bolts. Try lifting up the motor and sliding those stock mounts up an eighth of an inch. Also, dirty Dingo must have changed their design , your mounts don't look like mine..

That'll be my next plan of attack along with adjusting the long bolts. I'll call DD if that doesn't do the trick

Originally Posted by NastyBuzzard

Yes I just noticed those mounts you have don't look like the ones I'm looking at ordering... Did they change their design and not update the picture? Weird maybe they sent u the wrong ones??

Here's ones I am trying to purchase.
http://dirtydingo.com/store/product_...1369%7B15%7D52

Should be the same ones... i ordered them over the phone and he said they were right... my invoice reflects that model number DD-2585-4.

Originally Posted by tinydb84

They changed the design (likely cheaper to produce). I reinforced mine (I plan to turbo one day).

I'll be reinforcing mine as well... but I think I'll wait until after I get it all bolted down lol.

[TheBlueBomber]

Got a couple of good picks at the junkyard. Went there looking for 73-87 stuff and found 9 99+ ls trucks/burbans/avalanches...


Got both dipstick's and the Vortec cover.


Going to need a little touching up on the lettering and a good wash.



The cover goes for $50 at cost from the dealership and the dipstick's go for around $22 a peice. Got all three for $20

[NastyBuzzard]

Nice finds!

[TheBlueBomber]

Originally Posted by NastyBuzzard

Nice finds!

These little victories add up! I had budgeted those for brand new from the dealer and since I found them used I can use the $$ elsewhere.

[1963c-10]

Nice progress Austin.

[TheBlueBomber]

Originally Posted by NastyBuzzard

I'm thinking it's on their end. I just double checked their site and no where does it mention frame modification.

However, I did just remember you are using a L33 oil pan right? Is it any way different than stock truck oil pan? I have no idea.

I would send them back and have them QA them or something. I've never heard anyone having to modify cross member when using those mounts.

Wasn't the mounts or the oil pan that was the problem. That last adjustment I was looking at did the trick.

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

Nice progress Austin.

Thanks Jon, the race is on!!!

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by TheBlueBomber

Wasn't the mounts or the oil pan that was the problem. That last adjustment I was looking at did the trick.




Thanks Jon, the race is on!!!

Last adjustment?? Please explain? So the mounts make it fit without modification?

[TheBlueBomber]

Originally Posted by NastyBuzzard

Last adjustment?? Please explain? So the mounts make it fit without modification?

The mounts can fit without any modification. Sorry about the late response/cliffhanger... I had to wait for my photos to load in my photobucket account.


This is the last adjustment I was referring to for the long bolts. The spot you see where its missing the powdercoating is where the engine was sitting before. I loosened those bolts and put a big pry bar between the DD mount and the frame mount and then tightened it down while holding it in place. I did the same thing on the other side as well. This is the drivers side


That pushed it off far enough for it to clear. Once I was happy where the motor was sitting vertically I loosened all of the adjusters and pulled it forward what I could to clear the fire wall. Once I was happy with that I went underneath and adjusted the tail shaft of the transmission so that it was dead on with the axle.


I threw a level on there just for grins and boom... perfectly level haha.


Mocked up the intake.



From what I can see, the cross member will have to move back about half of an inch. I put a couple pieces of wood underneath the transmission to hold it about where I expect it to be so I could put the transfer case in... That's when it hit me... Something isn't right.






So I say to myself... good job, put it in one hole off. Rotated it one bolt up and sat back...









The output shaft on the tcase is too high now. Did a little digging and found DIY4x.com makes clocking rings for NP241 and NP208 transfer cases for only $65 including all the hardware needed. So it looks like ill be ordering one. I'm going to crawl under the truck and put the tcase back in and do some measuring to see which one I want to order.

They have to one for a passenger side tcase to go up and one for a driver side tcase to go up. If either side needs to go down you have to buy the opposite side clocking ring. So if I decide I want to move my tcase from the lower bolt hole up, then I will use the clocking ring designed for a passenger side tcase, however, if I want to move the tcase down from the upper bolt position, then I will buy the driver side clocking ring.

The rings have 3 positions: Stock, 15*, and 30*. The plate itself is about 3/8ths of an inch thick so no problems when it comes to the length of the splines.
http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?rout...&product_id=64

[TheBlueBomber]

After throwing that tcase up and down a couple of times and moving that engine back and forth I called it a day before I started relocating the transmission crossmember.

I bought a transmission mount for a 1987 truck because it would be the same bolt holes. Only thing that will need attention is where the bottom of the mount goes into the crossmember. I need to find something to put in there for it to hold it in place.



With the transmission at the correct height the cross member needs to move back about half of an inch


Low light now but here is the transmission output shaft point straight at the axle. The camera is sitting directly above the yoke on the axle. Once the cross member is moved back and the mount is in place, I will retake this picture and the output shaft will point straight at the axle


Clearance looks good. In this picture it looks like the head is a hair away from the firewall but in reality I can slip my finger right past it. This is the passenger side





The driver side is a little bit tighter but it still has room between the fire wall and head.



Once the tcase situation is figured out and I know 100% that nothing else needs to be moved I will take and respray the valve covers.

[rusty76]

Looking good. Glad to see you making progress!

[NastyBuzzard]

Couldn't Help it. Ran out and took a pic for you.

Sorry for the horrible quality.

[TheBlueBomber]

Originally Posted by rusty76

Looking good. Glad to see you making progress!

Thanks and me too! If it wasn't for 1963c-10 lending me his engine hoist I wouldn't have been able to get it done this holiday. I owe him big time.

Originally Posted by NastyBuzzard

Couldn't Help it. Ran out and took a pic for you.

Sorry for the horrible quality.

Okay that makes me feel better... so it looks like the only thing I need to get it at the right height is to get that crossmember you have or fab one up. Me going the modified stock route I'm going to try and track down that crossmember. Big difference in the angle of this tcase V.S. others. Thanks a lot for the picture!

[TheBlueBomber]

Bolted the tcase and transmission together this morning. Measured the output of the tcase to the rear axle and it came to be 46" measured my drive shaft and it came to be 46". Mocked It up and it looks like it's darn close. Going to wait until I get the cross member in before I go to a local driveline shop.

[TheBlueBomber]

Went to the junkyard today to see if I could find a cross member today... didn't find a cross member but I did find a lonely 4.8L that was just begging to have about 20 lbs of boost thrown at it! Also found the linkage for the new transfer case.


I can't remember if the 5.3 was this dirty or not when I got it... the motor spins freely and I know it's a 4.8L because I pulled the passenger side head off and there were flat top pistons. A good example of head gasket failure. Didn't grab a picture because at that time I wasn't planning on getting it.

The motor is from a 1999 silverado made from real tornadoes. Unknown miles... the fluid from the torque converter smelled good so I'll say it's a good investment :p




So there we have it... Two trucks, a boat, a future turbo motor, and a jealous ford watching in the background... today was a busy day and I can't wait to see what tomorrow yields.

[Hankster]

Sweet! I seen your post about the 4.8 on instagram, So I jumped online real quick to see what you posted about it here.. Can't wait to see what you do with it!

[TheBlueBomber]

Originally Posted by Hankster

Sweet! I seen your post about the 4.8 on instagram, So I jumped online real quick to see what you posted about it here.. Can't wait to see what you do with it!

Thanks. I'm excited myself to get this thing kicked off. Will be my first engine build ever... I don't know what I'm doing but hopefully by the end of it I might learn me something lets just hope It's not the same lesson I learned when fourwheeling with a hurt transmission by myself lol


I will be posting the turbo build here and on another thread in the High performance section. Most of my questions will be posted in there. Here is the link to the thread. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=635010