Scott's '51 Build

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by jocww

Scott, I'm just starting my build with the tci chassis. I had them do the assembly for me, but obviously I have to disassemble it in order to paint it etc. Can you take some more pics of the gas tank for me please. I am in the process of mounting mine back there too. Trying to decide if I should weld up a skid pan, or maybe some square tubing and then do straps. Also did you have your rear c notched? I feel you on the exhaust, I wish they had made the front of the frame 2inches wider, I mean if your going to redesign a frame why not give us some more room!!!

jocww - congrats on the chassis - I think it's an excellent choice. No C Notch - I am just going with a static drop and using the lowest setting for the coilovers to mount to.

Headers - yes you would think TCI would do a bump or clearance spot or something! My clearance channel works great.

Are you going with the chassis mounted booster? What motor? I had issues with the brake pedal scraping the floor and bumping into the head on my LQ4 motor. Switched to a firewall unit.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Gas tank pics attached - let me know if you need more. I used this tank and got the pump, pickup, Russell fuel line kit and corvette filter/reg from them as well:
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...rod/prd114.htm

[Scott2]

jocww - one more - here's the filler neck approach I used, personally not a fan of the cap in the bed floor style as I know I will spill gas all over the bed. I routed the filler from the left side fender and down to the tank. I used the original filler removed from the cab, cut off the top part and clamped it in a filler hose (ignore the sliver tape - that's holding the hose sections together temporarily). I also welded a bracket on the filler and attached it to the fender with some old clutch head machine screws I had.

Do you have build pics to share?

[solidaxel]

Yes I have used the stock buckets BUT you do need a body saw to make them fit the new headlights

[lower50's]

I did this.

[jweb]

I used these H4 lights and they fit without any cutting.
https://www.amazon.com/Cibie-082440-...ds=Cibie+82440

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by jweb

I used these H4 lights and they fit without any cutting.
https://www.amazon.com/Cibie-082440-...ds=Cibie+82440

jweb - nice truck and I love the color! Thanks for the reminder on Cibie's! I used those a lot years ago rally racing and going off-road as well. Great lights. I decided to send the gianormous LMC lights back and will order the Cibie's.

Thank all!

[jweb]

Originally Posted by Scott2

jweb - nice truck and I love the color! Thanks for the reminder on Cibie's! I used those a lot years ago rally racing and going off-road as well. Great lights. I decided to send the gianormous LMC lights back and will order the Cibie's.

Thank all!

After 10 years the blue primer is going away. I'm sad to see it go but it's time for real paint. Now it will be 2017 Dodge Destroyer Grey.

For your LS thermostat housing you may want to look at this :
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mr-Ga...BoCV1UQAvD_BwE

I used one like this pointed down, then I just needed a small 90 degree hose.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by jweb

After 10 years the blue primer is going away. I'm sad to see it go but it's time for real paint. Now it will be 2017 Dodge Destroyer Grey.

For your LS thermostat housing you may want to look at this :
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mr-Ga...BoCV1UQAvD_BwE




I used one like this pointed down, then I just needed a small 90 degree hose.

I tried a straight inlet first and spent a day trimming a hose and
it still didn’t fit. I think the angled version might work. Thanks!

[solidaxel]

I tried one of those Speedway housings and I was not able to get the standard thermostat that came with the engine to fit in the neck
I did not want to go to the 180* thermostat they sell so I could not use there swivel
Has anybody used one and had any luck?

[jweb]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

I tried one of those Speedway housings and I was not able to get the standard thermostat that came with the engine to fit in the neck
I did not want to go to the 180* thermostat they sell so I could not use there swivel
Has anybody used one and had any luck?

It's been a few years since I installed mine but I think this is what I used:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...stionsanswers/

If you look in the Q&A under the part description it says you need to use an 04+ 2 1/4" thermostat. I'm pretty sure that's what I did but it has been awhile.

[Scott2]

Updates as I grind my way to getting the truck running. Wiring is nearly done. I bought a kit from Rex at Affordable Street Rods. I was really nervous about wiring as I'd never done it but it was pretty straightforward. Wires were all marked very well, great instructions, and Rex is always available to resolve my confusion and explain things very patiently. I obviously have some wire cleanup and routing to take care of still.

You can see next to the fuse panel I have installed a Delco generic under dash pedal park brake. I used a Wilwood (probably Lokar) set of rear cables to hook up my inner e-brakes in the 9" rear and had Control Cables make me a custom front cable to connect the Delco to Wilwood stuff. Routed it out the floor thru a grommet and there's another set of holes and grommets letting it pass in and out of the wheel well and under the cab.

I installed a relay, the fan fuse, and the engine wiring harness fuse panel on the inner fender and routed the PCM and giant wire harness out into the wheel well. Traded my nasty dirty old alternator in for a clean rebuilt. Got my Cooling Components fan installed (left side of the third pic) and wired. Love the fan as it came with a very clean full shroud and seems to be a quality piece.

Also installed a set of Summit remote battery terminals low on the pass side firewall. My battery is in a drop box behind the pass side running board but good luck ever getting to it on the road. I made all my battery connections at the terminals.

Wired in and plumbed the trans cooler - went with a Derale like Mike on his '50. No pics as it's all buried underneath. Note to remember: there's a thermostat right at the top on the cooler that routes over the frame rail. This would have been a whole lot easier to wire before the cab was on...

I am just about done with the Vintage Air install as well. Got it installed earlier and the duct and wiring connections are now made. I painted the vent panels and installed them under the dash. Yes - I agonized over this for a while as I would prefer some vents that blended in better but this is what I have and I think it looks much better painted to match the dash.

[Scott2]

More - my TCI chassis came with 3/16" SS brake lines installed and the brake booster/master cylinder on the left frame rail. I swapped to a firewall setup and had to plumb up the new setup. I ended up buying a sweet Rigid 37 degree single flare tool and a roll of SS brake line from Eastwood. Worked great but a little pricey. The cool little SS brake line spacer clamps are from Kugel.

Followed FlySoCal's lead (thanks!) and sent my worn out door hinges off to Dr. J's Restoration Rx for a rebuild. I had him replace all the faceplates (tip of the day - not sure if they are available anywhere else - he tooled them up himself) as they were also beat. I tried to repair the old faceplates but that was brain damage as they are thin and way to hard to get right. The hinges now look great and just need painted so I can mount the doors.

I'm using the DBW gas pedal from a 2006 Silverado. It stuck out a little far so I cut a wedge, bent it and welded it back. Better now.

[jocww]

Thanks for the pics I bought a tanks tank from summit on a demo it was 80 bucks so Im just trying to make that fit. I have my floor board one that it came with, I think that if I use stock manifolds they dump high enough where the brake pedal wont hit the 5 cylinder tube and will dump high enough that i can get a bend and go right by the booster, I am hoping that the heat wont damage the mc or booster though. Im using an 01 ls1/4l60e out of a z28 that was in a 71camaro so the oil pan fit like a glove, and hopefully his intake will too!

[jocww]

very nice, I like the wiring job.

[lower50's]

The electrical panel is nice. I like the remote battery terminals. Coming along nice. Do you have a part number for your flaring tool?

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by lower50's

The electrical panel is nice. I like the remote battery terminals. Coming along nice. Do you have a part number for your flaring tool?

Thanks! Here’s the flaring tool: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/37-De...Line,9067.html

I bought the same tool off eBay with free shipping.

[lower50's]

Originally Posted by Scott2

Thanks! Here’s the flaring tool: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/37-De...Line,9067.html

I bought the same tool off eBay with free shipping.

Thanks Scott I have been looking for a good flaring tool. I will be ordering one soon.

[74project]

man your doing a great job...almost there!

[OutlawDrifter]

My brakes have been wonky on my setup also...at this point I'm ready to blame the proportioning block. Mine will stop quickly, just won't lock the brakes.

[8man]

I've been catching up on builds as time allows, and just got to yours. I like the work you've done. Thanks for posting this up. Also, some well thought out changes, like the doors and the E brake. Nice job.

[joedoh]

sounds good even for open headers!

[jocww]

That's awesome !! Hopefully I'm there soon too

[MIKESAD50]

Congrats on the first drive looks and sounds good.
Its a great feeling, and gets better!

[8man]

Scott, I'm following your lead on changing out some 48 doors to 54 outside door handles and Altman latches. Do you have pics of the finished product? I was wondering how you treated the jamb plates.

Thanks.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by 8man

Scott, I'm following your lead on changing out some 48 doors to 54 outside door handles and Altman latches. Do you have pics of the finished product? I was wondering how you treated the jamb plates.

Thanks.

8man - sorry for the slow response. Here are a few pics - for the jamb plates they're just bolt ins from Altman with no mods. I am having some challenges getting the door adjusted right (nothing to do with the latch) and unfortunately I bunged up my door frame paint. I still need to paint the inside of the doors so will fix it then.

What else would be helpful?