1968

[jonny..2008]

there are more guys here who are more knowledgeable than i.
BUT i did have to switch the upper and lower ball to get '77 spindles on.
dont forget to check lug nut sizes too. i missed that.
also check tie rod end taper for disc spindles. i changed them 'cause they were cheap (bought 77 ones to match the spindles) but not sure if the taper is the same. i know the adjuster is different between 69 and 77.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by jonny..2008

there are more guys here who are more knowledgeable than i.
BUT i did have to switch the upper and lower ball to get '77 spindles on.
dont forget to check lug nut sizes too. i missed that.
also check tie rod end taper for disc spindles. i changed them 'cause they were cheap (bought 77 ones to match the spindles) but not sure if the taper is the same. i know the adjuster is different between 69 and 77.

Don't cut your self short. You have to know what you are doing, you owned a chevrolet don't you. Ha Ha.

[jonny..2008]

there is an faq on the drum to disc swap. after my walk ill link it here.
pretty sure you'll need new ball joints and the reason will be the size of the taper.

[jonny..2008]

go here and click the one that applies to you.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by jonny..2008

go here and click the one that applies to you.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

the ball joints are not the only issue. They are longer that the drum brakes.

[jonny..2008]

Originally Posted by gdavis

the ball joints are not the only issue. They are longer that the drum brakes.

IF I understand and have not confused myself about the situation:

you shouldnt nee to pull the motor or change the cross member.
change the ball joints to match your spindles, get the 72 flex brake lines/ m/c /disc drum prop valve and be back on track.
why would the cross member have to swap?
like i said i may be confusing all my info from the last few weeks with yours, but check before you back up. it might save you a day.
good luck in either case and nice work on the sheet metal so far.

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by jonny..2008

IF I understand and have not confused myself about the situation:

you shouldnt nee to pull the motor or change the cross member.
change the ball joints to match your spindles, get the 72 flex brake lines/ m/c /disc drum prop valve and be back on track.
why would the cross member have to swap?
like i said i may be confusing all my info from the last few weeks with yours, but check before you back up. it might save you a day.
good luck in either case and nice work on the sheet metal so far.

The reason I am advising him to change the crossmember is because the 1972 brake lines are routed completely different then all other years and the brake lines route up over the top of the crossmember under the motor mounts to the front of the cross member and the hard point to mount the flexible rubber brake hose is on the front of the crossmember.
While it is true you could just relocate the brake hose brackets from the back of the 1967-71 crossmember to the front you might as well change out the whole crossmember to the 1972 version since he has one handy, also the 1971 brake line kits are on backorder untill the end of time and the 1972 brake line kits are in stock and ready to go, however its six of one half dozen of another, both ways will work just fine. In my opinion the 1972 brake line routing is superior to all other years, there is a reason why they changed the routing for the 1972 model year, if you study the design you will figure out why.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by jonny..2008

IF I understand and have not confused myself about the situation:

you shouldnt nee to pull the motor or change the cross member.
change the ball joints to match your spindles, get the 72 flex brake lines/ m/c /disc drum prop valve and be back on track.
why would the cross member have to swap?
like i said i may be confusing all my info from the last few weeks with yours, but check before you back up. it might save you a day.
good luck in either case and nice work on the sheet metal so far.

the bracket for the brake line is on the wrong side. And if that is different what else is different. I have the whole unit I might as well change it. I am not sure if the angle on the cross member is different. as far as the spindle.?????????

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by gdavis

the bracket for the brake line is on the wrong side. And if that is different what else is different. I have the whole unit I might as well change it. I am not sure if the angle on the cross member is different. as far as the spindle.?????????

If there are other differences they are minor and wont cause any problems.

[Xeen]

Yeah the stud is longer on the 1971-72 upper and lower ball joint which is what you will need. Heres a little trivia for you, front Disc brakes became standard in 1971.
Heres where it gets interesting though both the 1971 and 1972 came standard with front Disc however the brake lines are routed completely different between both years, so you will need to use the 1972 crossmember or relocate your brake hose mounting tabs and buy this aftermarket kit to mount the rear brake lines.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Remova...ose,45896.html
Basically you need to commit to using the 1972 brake system.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Xeen

Yeah the stud is longer on the 1971-72 upper and lower ball joint which is what you will need. Heres a little trivia for you, front Disc brakes became standard in 1971.
Heres where it gets interesting though both the 1971 and 1972 came standard with front Disc however the brake lines are routed completely different between both years, so you will need to use the 1972 crossmember or relocate your brake hose mounting tabs and buy this aftermarket kit to mount the rear brake lines.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Remova...ose,45896.html
Basically you need to commit to using the 1972 brake system.

I was hoping that the ball joints would work. For I just bought the ones in the 68 frame. But I guess I will have to pull the engine and transmission out of my rolling frame and install the whole unit out of the 72. also the rear end. I like to work on my truck but this my friend is stepping backwards.

[gdavis]

Here are the pictures of the spacers that will not work on my hinges.

[gdavis]

Today I could not get motivated. All I did was to remove the front brakes on the 1972 frame. that were froze up. and I welded the inter rocker on the pass side of my cab. I only spot welded then in. so I did that,

[gdavis]

welded

[gdavis]

My Son-n-law came by today and brought me 4 crome alum wheels and tires and I have to say they are not that bad. They took them off of a truck in their fleet. So thanks a lot. save me money.

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by gdavis

My Son-n-law came by today and brought me 4 crome alum wheels and tires and I have to say they are not that bad. They took them off of a truck in their fleet. So thanks a lot. save me money.

Nice score on the wheels.

[gdavis]

Today, I feel like I got something done. It don't look like I did. I finshed getting my 1972 frame over to my work area. Now I can start swapping parts over to the 67 frame. Disk brakes and rear end.
I also finshed welding and grind the inter rocker on the pass side.

[gdavis]

and here is the same rocker primed and ready to go. I hope I can install the outer rocker this week.

[jonny..2008]

glad you moved forward. i had a poor day.

[Xeen]

err as far as I know those arent hinge shims those are door jam latch plate shims which is the reason they dont fit the spacing for the bolt holes on the hinges.

[Bomp]

Im not very much help.
Posted via Mobile Device

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Xeen

err as far as I know those arent hinge shims those are door jam latch plate shims which is the reason they dont fit the spacing for the bolt holes on the hinges.

My neighbor whick has a 65 came over and he said that they are latch shims. I felt like a nut. He said that the hinge has no shims. It seams that the hinge post needs to be strong.If you put shims there it would not be as strong. for the hinge would not have a solid place for the metal to metal. Not shim to metal. At least he didn't hit me or any thing.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Xeen

err as far as I know those arent hinge shims those are door jam latch plate shims which is the reason they dont fit the spacing for the bolt holes on the hinges.

u r right about the shims.

[gdavis]

Today I dry fitted the drivers door. It worked geat. I install a small brace temp. to keep in from moving again. Now all I need is the front floor pan and inter rocker. and rear pillar drivers side. I install the drivers side cab corner and primed it.

[gdavis]

I also sanded the drivers side inter fender and painted it black