My 57 Pro Street

[Fat Mike]

Very nice! That is definetly a cool and clean looking hydroboost brake fab job.

[CAL 58 GMC]

Very nice Kim!

[chevyrestoguy]

That looks nice! Very clean and simple, which I like alot.

I'm doing a very similar set-up on mine, but I'm not putting the master cylinder so far back because my air ride stuff is going to really take up all the space in the front side of the bed where your master cylinder is mounted.

Does the pushrod on the forward side of your Hydroboost unit flop around? Mine feels like it's on a swivel, and I think I might have to build a support to keep it in alignment with the rest of the linkage. With the DOM, does it feel really sturdy and does the pedal move nice and free when you depress the piston in the master cylinder? It looks like it will work great to me, but because I'm still in the planning stage, I have to ask. My whole episode started when I mocked up the headers and the 3" tubing was really tight to both the master cylinder and the transmission. The transmission can't be moved, so my plan is to try to move the braking system as close to the framerail as I can. I'm trying to give myself as much room as possible because I'm such a detail freak and I want the exhaust tubing placement to be a mirror image from the driver's and passenger side. I'm using a TCI universal pedal assembly and it looks like I might be able to cut it back off and build a new mounting bracket. The brake linkage is only going to be about 18" long, and I've got a stick of chromemoly that will work. I'm thinking that I might build a bellcrank set-up with an offset. I'm about 2 weeks away from tackling this, and I'll post pictures with the results.

If you have the means, I would highly suggest putting in a mock-up block, heads, and transmission and test fit your headers right now while you've got the cab off. I thought I had tons of room until I mocked everything up. I'm also going with a 3" exhaust with mandrel bends and v-band clamps, and that stuff takes up space. Are you going big block or small block?

I like your truck alot. I live in Southern California too, and maybe one day I'll be able to check it out in person. There's a whole bunch of us that should all get together for a roadtrip when we finish up our rides (Kabwe, KustomBrad, yourself, and lots of others)

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

That looks nice! Very clean and simple, which I like alot.

I'm doing a very similar set-up on mine, but I'm not putting the master cylinder so far back because my air ride stuff is going to really take up all the space in the front side of the bed where your master cylinder is mounted.
Could you move your air ride stuff on the opposite side of your frame?

Does the pushrod on the forward side of your Hydroboost unit flop around?
It felt like it was on a swivel until I got everythying together. The pedal works really nice and it has very little side movement.

Mine feels like it's on a swivel, and I think I might have to build a support to keep it in alignment with the rest of the linkage.
I think as long as you keep everything in a straight line it should be fine. My rod is right at 36" long and the action feels solid

With the DOM, does it feel really sturdy and does the pedal move nice and free when you depress the piston in the master cylinder? Yes it works really nice.

It looks like it will work great to me, but because I'm still in the planning stage, I have to ask. My whole episode started when I mocked up the headers and the 3" tubing was really tight to both the master cylinder and the transmission. The transmission can't be moved, so my plan is to try to move the braking system as close to the framerail as I can. I'm trying to give myself as much room as possible because I'm such a detail freak and I want the exhaust tubing placement to be a mirror image from the driver's and passenger side. I'm using a TCI universal pedal assembly and it looks like I might be able to cut it back off and build a new mounting bracket. The brake linkage is only going to be about 18" long, and I've got a stick of chromemoly that will work. I'm thinking that I might build a bellcrank set-up with an offset. I'm about 2 weeks away from tackling this, and I'll post pictures with the results.

If you have the means, I would highly suggest putting in a mock-up block, heads, and transmission and test fit your headers right now while you've got the cab off. I thought I had tons of room until I mocked everything up. I'm also going with a 3" exhaust with mandrel bends and v-band clamps, and that stuff takes up space. Are you going big block or small block?
I'm running a big block. I've already figured on custom headers. I hope I can get the exhaust to run along the outside of the frame and exit behind the cab. I think there will be enough room between the frame and the steps. I will just have to modify the front cab mount for it to go through it.

I like your truck alot. I live in Southern California too, and maybe one day I'll be able to check it out in person. There's a whole bunch of us that should all get together for a roadtrip when we finish up our rides (Kabwe, KustomBrad, yourself, and lots of others)
We should try and meet at the Brothers show if you can make it. I've met Kabwe and Tri5 there.

I see your in Apple Valley. We almost bought a house out there in 1980.
Kim

[Kim57]

Thanks for the compliments Mike and Cal.
Kim

[chevyrestoguy]

Kim-
Thanks for the reply. That answered a lot of questions I had, especially the floppy pushrod on the Hydroboost unit.

Could you move your air ride stuff on the opposite side of your frame?
My truck has a narrowed 9" with 29X15.50 tires, and it's currently in a buddy's shop getting the 3-Link air ride suspension. With the lower links and the bag brackets, the area just behind the cab is going to be tight because I already have a tubular X-member that was part of the original build I did 15 years ago. I plan on mounting my air tanks in the area outside of the framerails under the cab. The compressors are going to be tucked away behind the cab under the bed floor. I really want the mufflers to be as far back as I can get them. I don't want them under the seat.

I'm running a big block. I've already figured on custom headers. I hope I can get the exhaust to run along the outside of the frame and exit behind the cab. I think there will be enough room between the frame and the steps. I will just have to modify the front cab mount for it to go through it.
I was originally planning to run a big block (496) and changed direction because I really want to be able to road trip in the truck. I have a set of Hooker headers that fit awesome, but the collectors will have to be modified to clear the brake bracket. If you're planning to route the pipes to the outside of the framerails, you might have to run a set of fenderwell headers. You're more than welcome to use my headers for a test fit to see what kind of room you have. I was shocked that around the engine and subframe, these big block headers fit like they were designed for the truck. I think that they are 67-69 Camaro headers.

We should try and meet at the Brothers show if you can make it. I've met Kabwe and Tri5 there.
That sounds great. I have been wanting to do the Brothers show since they started doing them, but always seemed to either forget the date or have to work.

I see your in Apple Valley. We almost bought a house out there in 1980
Yeah, I was stationed out here in 1986 to 1990 and wound up getting a job in Palmdale and liked it better out here versus the Antelope Valley. You wouldn't recognize Apple Valley. It's grown quite a bit in the last 10 years. I kind of miss the sleepy little town it used to be because traffic really sucks. It used to take me 10 minutes to get across town, but now it takes almost 20.

[addicted2dunes]

The only thing I'd worry about is you have a lot of leverage on that brake booster with that long rod. I've dealt with hydroboost a lot and know that it puts out tons of braking with a light foot. But if you decide to slam the brakes hard your feet put out a lot of pressure also.

In the pic I have circled the joint end in green. That area can move in any which way it needs to. Now my thought is with hard braking this area will kick upwards hence snapping the threads circled in red.



From my experience it is best to cut the booster shaft (at red lines) and machine the area between the red lines down to 1/2" so it slips inside your tubing like a bung. Weld it there, then grind it smooth and sleeve over the whole area and weld the sleeve, no chance of breaking then.



Like this:



I know, very crude drawing..... Good thing I'm no photo editor.

[addicted2dunes]

One other thing I just noticed is in my first pic posted (with the circles) you could even get away with just sleeving over the red circled area...

And another.... If you did machine it like I was talking about (bung) there probably is no need for the sleeve.

Also, I have seen a lot of people running hydroboost on the trails and they have shortened their shafts and just welded it back together without a sleeve..... Seen tons of shafts snap that way.

Just remember this is just "my opinion," it's your build and your fun, just I'd hate to see someone compromise with safety.

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by addicted2dunes

The only thing I'd worry about is you have a lot of leverage on that brake booster with that long rod. I've dealt with hydroboost a lot and know that it puts out tons of braking with a light foot. But if you decide to slam the brakes hard your feet put out a lot of pressure also.

In the pic I have circled the joint end in green. That area can move in any which way it needs to. Now my thought is with hard braking this area will kick upwards hence snapping the threads circled in red.



From my experience it is best to cut the booster shaft (at red lines) and machine the area between the red lines down to 1/2" so it slips inside your tubing like a bung. Weld it there, then grind it smooth and sleeve over the whole area and weld the sleeve, no chance of breaking then.



Like this:



I know, very crude drawing..... Good thing I'm no photo editor.

addicted2dunes
I get what your saying and appreciate the input.
I do think the area in the red circle is a weak link in the setup but haddn't really decided what to do about it.
I should be able to sleave right over that area with no problem as the conector rod and the rod on the hydroboost are the same O.D.
Kim

[bajabob]

Kim57
Kabwe and I have been talking about the patch panels on the doors of our trucks. Mine are all messed up and he found your postings of how you fixed yours.

My question is what is the orange stuff on the inside of your door ???? Would you use it on a complete door (ie no patch panels ???) I picked up a second set of used doors that are in better shape but have signs of the same stuff happening down there at the bottom....

thanks, the mad welding skills here is amazing thanks for inspiring the rest of us...

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by bajabob

Kim57
Kabwe and I have been talking about the patch panels on the doors of our trucks. Mine are all messed up and he found your postings of how you fixed yours.

My question is what is the orange stuff on the inside of your door ???? Would you use it on a complete door (ie no patch panels ???) I picked up a second set of used doors that are in better shape but have signs of the same stuff happening down there at the bottom....

thanks, the mad welding skills here is amazing thanks for inspiring the rest of us...

bajabob
The orange paint is just a rust encapculator like por15. It's what they had at Mcfaden Dales. I used it because I had the door apart and it was easy to brush on. I would use it on a complete door as some added protection against rust as it is cheap insurance.
I get inspired by the others on this site as well.
Kim

[Fat Mike]

Any updates?? Look forward to some pictures!!

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by Fat Mike

Any updates?? Look forward to some pictures!!

I've been doing some of the tedious things that need to be done, running brake lines and the lines for the hydroboost.I'll post some pics when I get a chance.
Kim

[Kabwe]

Kim57,

I see the hood just hanging on your wall just asking to be cut.lol

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by Kabwe

Kim57,

I see the hood just hanging on your wall just asking to be cut.lol

It's gonna have to wait its turn. I just got the cab and front sheet metal back on and I'm fighting with trying to fit the doors. Very frustrating trying to get at least one good gap.
Kim

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by Kim57

It's gonna have to wait its turn. I just got the cab and front sheet metal back on and I'm fighting with trying to fit the doors. Very frustrating trying to get at least one good gap.
Kim

Yeah I know that's a chore.

[Kim57]

Finally had a chance to get a little done on the truck.
I had to buy new wheels for the rear as the ones I had wouldn't fit over the wilwood brakes I decided to go with (one of those little changes that snow ball).
I'm going with chevy rallys now. Havent decided what cap I'm going to go with yet so they will come later.
The new wheels moved the rear tires out 1.75" so they are closer to the fenders (obviosly I had them to far in with the old wheels so I got lucky with that screw up). I still have room so it should be ok.
Kim

[Kim57]

Now on to something I have no experience in, the dreaded door gaps.
I'm starting with the passenger door as it is the worst one. I should have gotten a pick before I started but forgot.
It actually rubbed the cab from the top of the window down to the cowell where it turned toward the fender. The rest of the gaps aren't that bad.
I took a body file to it and got a decent gap. This sepperated the inner and outer skin so I had to weld it back together.
Kim

[Kim57]

A little grinding and some more work with the body files and it's starting to look like something I can live with.
It still needs some work on the cab to even out the gap but I should be able to get something I will be satisfied with.
The last pic shows the gap at the top of the door after removing the drip rail.
It gets smaller as it moves toward the front of the truck. I'll tackle that one on another day.
Kim

[Fat Mike]

Looking very good kim57. It sure seems like when you guys say you don't have experience doing something it sure comes out better that what the average man would do. Keep up the good work and keep posting pictures.

[jjjmm56]

Kim everything is looking great! Heres a few things I've been running into.When you set your door alignments add some weight to the door about the same amount as your windows and hardwear. My door dropped after I installed my windows, and had to realign. Also if you have door rubber put it on and check door closing,I had trouble with my drivers door I needed to cut my rubber thinner so the door would close without pushing the door out. Keep up the good work!

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by jjjmm56

Kim everything is looking great! Heres a few things I've been running into.When you set your door alignments add some weight to the door about the same amount as your windows and hardwear. My door dropped after I installed my windows, and had to realign. Also if you have door rubber put it on and check door closing,I had trouble with my drivers door I needed to cut my rubber thinner so the door would close without pushing the door out. Keep up the good work!

Thanks for the info jjjmm56.
Kim

[1Bad62Pro/Street]

Kim,

How do you have your rearend setup?
4-Link?

http://www.competitionengineering.co...s/chassis2.asp
Have you made Tubs for the bed?


Thanks,

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by 1Bad62Pro/Street

Kim,

How do you have your rearend setup?
4-Link?

http://www.competitionengineering.co...s/chassis2.asp
Have you made Tubs for the bed?


Thanks,

Right now it's just bolted together for construction purposes.
I have the bars paralell with each other.
I still need to make the tubs for it. The final placemnet of the bed floor will determine just what I will do with them.
The fuel tank and bed floor will change the ride height some so I will have some suspension adjustments to make once it is in.
Kim

[Kim57]

Did some more work on the passenger door. I had to fix the gap after removing the drip rail. I took a piece of 1/2" square tube and cut it to fit. Iwas able to get a piece for both sides of the cab out of one piece.
I also tacked a piece of 1/8" stock to the top of the door to maintain a unifor gap when installing my filler.
Hope the pics help.
Kim