How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 - Page 9 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

gringoloco · 04-26-2011, 11:32 PM

Pulled the floor off again to clean up the backside of the holes and prep it all for final assembly. Once it was ready, I bolted it onto the framerails and started laying down the wood. I like the fact that the mounting hardware will be completely hidden beneath the planks

Still need to cut and drill for the bedsides and tubs, then it will all get tightened down...

SCOTI · 04-26-2011, 11:40 PM

Did you cut down your 'body pucks'? They look slightly shorter than my 3" ones (might just be how they appear in the monitor).

Wood looks good!

gringoloco · 04-26-2011, 11:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Did you cut down your 'body pucks'? They look slightly shorter than my 3" ones (might just be how they appear in the monitor).

Wood looks good!

Yes, I took 1 1/8" out of them to accommodate the thickness of the wood stacked on top of the metal floor ribs. They are now 1 7/8" tall. Thanks for the comment- it still needs a little work, but should turn out nicely

VA72C10 · 04-27-2011, 12:03 AM

very nice!!!

gringoloco · 04-27-2011, 11:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VA72C10

very nice!!!

Thanks! Getting there- slowly today...

Managed to get the bed floor bolted down tight after doing some more routing/trimming as some of the boards decided to warp on me

What fun lying on my back running 50-plus nuts and washers onto the carriage bolts, all while snaking around the framerails, tank, and exhaust and finding creative ways to keep the bolts from spinning. Once everything was snug, I cut the wheelwells and drilled the perimeter mounting holes. Bed floor- DONE. Okay, still have to trim for the rear stakepockets...

My neighbor stopped by as I pulled the truck outside and commented on how nice the bed floor looked, and then asked if I was gonna treat the wood with anything. "Nope." Going for the 'weathered' look. Got an odd look. I'm sure he thinks I'm ruining it

Also, after making a huge mess with seam sealer and breaking my caulk gun, I installed some nutserts for the wheel tubs with a homemade 'tool'. Works pretty well, especially considering the actual installation tool is over $100. I woulda liked to have one, though, after about the third nutsert, as these things takes some 'oomph' to get them to crush. I am not looking forward to doing the other bedside...

VA72C10 · 04-28-2011, 12:04 AM

those are cool. Going to look factory to many people when done!

**67cheby** · 04-28-2011, 09:13 AM

nice work

RatRod68 · 04-28-2011, 10:25 AM

Where did you get those nutserts? Those could be VERY usefull

chevy2racr · 04-28-2011, 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RatRod68

Where did you get those nutserts? Those could be VERY usefull

agreed!

gringoloco · 04-28-2011, 11:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VA72C10

those are cool. Going to look factory to many people when done!

Thanks- that's the idea. You guys will know, though...

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67cheby

nice work

Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by RatRod68

Where did you get those nutserts? Those could be VERY usefull

Yeah, pretty cool little gadgets. Picked 'em up through Grainger.com. Should be able to get 'em at your local store or on Amazon.com as well.

mcbassin · 04-28-2011, 11:42 PM

That bed floor looks awesome! Great idea with the nut serts. I may have to borrow that one myself. Nice!

gringoloco · 04-28-2011, 11:54 PM

Had some fun with the spray gun today after welding up the corner bracing and drilling holes for the rear cross-sill in its raised position. Sanded and scuffed the panels in preparation for primer- and then sprayed 'em. The primer looks grey in these pics, but is really black (this may be important later). The header panel is a truer representation of color than the bedsides; guess they were in the sun...

gringoloco · 04-29-2011, 12:18 AM

Gave them some time to dry while at my daughter's tee-ball game, then scuffed 'em again so that the color would stick

I shot two wet coats of the HRF and maaaan does it lay out nicely. It is very forgiving unless you are a complete bonehead, like I was...

I got in a rush (dumb thing to do while painting) and had the panels too close together, so that I had to squeeze between them while painting, causing me get too close to the header and run it :cry: Also had a leakage issue with the gun that got a few drips on the 'sides since they were laying flat. I'll have to decide if I can live with it when it dries completely, but will most likely be sanding and respraying the header- at least the front side- the back is just fine

All in all, I like this paint, and look forward to shooting more of it. I think it's gonna be cool

In the pics, the jambs are mostly dry, as is the header, but the insides of the bedsides are still wet, hence the glossy-ness...

gringoloco · 04-29-2011, 12:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy2racr

agreed!

These things are awesome, but a bit of a pain to install without the special tool. It can be done, but definitely eat your Wheaties!

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcbassin

That bed floor looks awesome! Great idea with the nut serts. I may have to borrow that one myself. Nice!

Thanks a lot! This is why I put these things up here: in hopes that someone might get some entertainment or use out of it. Also don't mind the motivation

mcmlxix · 04-29-2011, 01:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RatRod68

Where did you get those nutserts? Those could be VERY usefull

I found them on eBay for less then the local stores or online....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

**yote1234** · 04-29-2011, 11:50 AM

very nice !!!! keep up the good work.

gringoloco · 05-02-2011, 11:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yote1234

very nice !!!! keep up the good work.

Thanks! Trying to keep the momentum- stuff just keeps getting in the way- stupid responsibilities...

I did manage to make a little progress by popping out the back glass using the extension cord trick and getting some primer on the back of the cab and paint on the wheeltubs. I didn't paint the cab, as it will get wetsanded before color...

It is killing me to not be perfectly bodyworking this truck before paint. I keep wanting to do it 'right'. I think the technique will pay off though, as the reward for not having worried about the details now is not sweating parking it at Home Depot- or loading it with the junk I buy there. Just might end up with a sweet faux-tina, too

Jacfourteen · 05-03-2011, 01:17 AM

Looks good!

gringoloco · 05-03-2011, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jacfourteen

Looks good!

Thanks!

I hope to actually have a complete truck again soon...
Posted via Mobile Device

68Driver · 05-03-2011, 09:03 AM

Howdy,

My project is down to the frame right now and I'm within a month or so of pulling the trigger on whether to paint or powder?? How did you like the powder coat when you got your parts back? It looks very very nice. The word on the street is that powder is the way to go?? What are your thoughts? THanks..

**67cheby** · 05-03-2011, 09:24 AM

Looking good

gringoloco · 05-03-2011, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68Driver

Howdy,

My project is down to the frame right now and I'm within a month or so of pulling the trigger on whether to paint or powder?? How did you like the powder coat when you got your parts back? It looks very very nice. The word on the street is that powder is the way to go?? What are your thoughts? THanks..

I like the powder for it's durability, buuuuuut, it is more expensive and impossible to touch up if you do manage to scratch or chip it. If I were doing a frame-off, I would go powder. Personal preference

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67cheby

Looking good

Thanks! We're getting there...
Posted via Mobile Device

bosco200 · 05-03-2011, 07:29 PM

Thank god you changed the bed that was my biggest worry,
Posted via Mobile Device

72BlckButy · 05-03-2011, 08:59 PM

Nice progress GL! Love the floor/bed mods.

gringoloco · 05-03-2011, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bosco200

Thank god you changed the bed that was my biggest worry,
Posted via Mobile Device

Haha- me too! It was one of the first things to go...

Quote:

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy

Nice progress GL! Love the floor/bed mods.

Thanks! Hope to have it back together soon

04-26-2011, 11:32 PM	#201
gringoloco A guy with a truck Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Germany, for now Posts: 5,921	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Pulled the floor off again to clean up the backside of the holes and prep it all for final assembly. Once it was ready, I bolted it onto the framerails and started laying down the wood. I like the fact that the mounting hardware will be completely hidden beneath the planks Still need to cut and drill for the bedsides and tubs, then it will all get tightened down... Attached Images __________________ -Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy

04-26-2011, 11:40 PM	#202
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,028	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Did you cut down your 'body pucks'? They look slightly shorter than my 3" ones (might just be how they appear in the monitor). Wood looks good! __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

04-27-2011, 12:03 AM	#204
VA72C10 VA72C10 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Midlothian, VA Posts: 25,269	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 very nice!!! __________________ Looking for a 67-72 swb or blazer project in or around VA.

04-28-2011, 12:04 AM	#206
VA72C10 VA72C10 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Midlothian, VA Posts: 25,269	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 those are cool. Going to look factory to many people when done! __________________ Looking for a 67-72 swb or blazer project in or around VA.

04-28-2011, 09:13 AM	#207
67cheby 67cheby Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: siloam springs ar 72761 Posts: 17,890	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 nice work __________________ Check out Slosh Tubz, bolt-in inner fenders for frame laying C-10's Slosh Tubz Introductory Price $559 67 Cheby's Dropmember Build Thread Slosh Tubz on Facebook http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=554172

04-28-2011, 10:25 AM	#208
RatRod68 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Kentucky Posts: 828	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Where did you get those nutserts? Those could be VERY usefull __________________ build Threads: Nasty 68 C10. My lil hotrod Leftovers 68 C20 D-Ranged Ford Ranger on steroids Semper Fi

04-28-2011, 11:42 PM	#211
mcbassin Still Learning Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Central Oklahoma Posts: 10,108	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 That bed floor looks awesome! Great idea with the nut serts. I may have to borrow that one myself. Nice! __________________ Mike "69 Short Wide" My Project 86 Silverado Landen's Project Instagram: @mcbassin My Website C/10 Club Oklahoma Facebook Group

04-28-2011, 11:54 PM	#212
gringoloco A guy with a truck Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Germany, for now Posts: 5,921	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Had some fun with the spray gun today after welding up the corner bracing and drilling holes for the rear cross-sill in its raised position. Sanded and scuffed the panels in preparation for primer- and then sprayed 'em. The primer looks grey in these pics, but is really black (this may be important later). The header panel is a truer representation of color than the bedsides; guess they were in the sun... Attached Images __________________ -Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy

04-29-2011, 12:18 AM	#213
gringoloco A guy with a truck Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Germany, for now Posts: 5,921	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Gave them some time to dry while at my daughter's tee-ball game, then scuffed 'em again so that the color would stick I shot two wet coats of the HRF and maaaan does it lay out nicely. It is very forgiving unless you are a complete bonehead, like I was... I got in a rush (dumb thing to do while painting) and had the panels too close together, so that I had to squeeze between them while painting, causing me get too close to the header and run it :cry: Also had a leakage issue with the gun that got a few drips on the 'sides since they were laying flat. I'll have to decide if I can live with it when it dries completely, but will most likely be sanding and respraying the header- at least the front side- the back is just fine All in all, I like this paint, and look forward to shooting more of it. I think it's gonna be cool In the pics, the jambs are mostly dry, as is the header, but the insides of the bedsides are still wet, hence the glossy-ness... Attached Images __________________ -Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy

04-29-2011, 11:50 AM	#216
yote1234 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Gold Canyon Arizona Posts: 4,373	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 very nice !!!! keep up the good work. __________________ 1971 K5 CST Blazer 1951 -3100 5 window short bed 4sp 1965 Chevelle Malibu 283 (sadly sold) 1968 Camaro 327 1968 Honda mini-trail z50a #377 1966 uh 1-D Huey

05-03-2011, 01:17 AM	#218
Jacfourteen Big Red - Now its a SWB! Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Oroville, Ca Posts: 1,624	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Looks good! __________________ 68 3/4 ton (Project)-350 Small Block, .030 over, 10:1 comp, 3998993 heads, C3BX edelbrock intake, comp cams XE268, Holley 670 SA, long tube headers, dual flow 40's, E-fan, Alum rad, currently under the knife getting shortened and bagged build thread 41 3/4 ton (wife's)-flatbed, fully restored to original 01 Tahoe LT 4WD (my daily driver)-Magnaflow Muffler, Rollin on 22's 02 Ford Mustang Convertable (Wife's Car)-Flowmaster 50, Clear corners, Intake, sittin on 18's

05-03-2011, 09:03 AM	#220
68Driver Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Minnesota Posts: 47	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Howdy, My project is down to the frame right now and I'm within a month or so of pulling the trigger on whether to paint or powder?? How did you like the powder coat when you got your parts back? It looks very very nice. The word on the street is that powder is the way to go?? What are your thoughts? THanks..

05-03-2011, 09:24 AM	#221
67cheby 67cheby Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: siloam springs ar 72761 Posts: 17,890	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Looking good __________________ Check out Slosh Tubz, bolt-in inner fenders for frame laying C-10's Slosh Tubz Introductory Price $559 67 Cheby's Dropmember Build Thread Slosh Tubz on Facebook http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=554172

05-03-2011, 07:29 PM	#223
bosco200 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Ste. Genevieve, MO Posts: 526	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Thank god you changed the bed that was my biggest worry, Posted via Mobile Device

05-03-2011, 08:59 PM	#224
72BlckButy Tot Roddin' Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 24,461	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Nice progress GL! Love the floor/bed mods. __________________ -Nate 1969 CST SWB - Project Blank Slate (4.5/6" ECE Static Drop, 6-lug disc brake upgrade (manual), Billet Specialties Vintec 20x8.5 255/40 (F) 20x10 295/40 (R), 250 I-6) 1960 AMF Skylark - Tot Roddin' (Lowered with custom frame; soon to include custom push bar and interior) 2008 Silverado CrewCab 1LT (5.3L, 3:73, 4x4, LT1, Z-71, Towing Package)



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