slammed 57

[slammed57]

Originally Posted by joedoh

that rear wheel looks like a dryer tub!

let me know if you need and cloths dried, we'll throw"em in

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by slammed57

let me know if you need and cloths dried, we'll throw"em in

[KMC3420]

Nice selection of parts on the calipers. The build overall is looking great!

[my56chevytruck]

my friend, you do great work. sure is looking good. Can you hear the engine roar yet? soon though soon.

[slammed57]

Originally Posted by my56chevytruck

my friend, you do great work. sure is looking good. Can you hear the engine roar yet? soon though soon.

Thanks morrie, as for the motor, I havent tried it yet, I decided to go with a different cam and carb, probably do so around june or july I will address it

[my56chevytruck]

Originally Posted by slammed57

Thanks morrie, as for the motor, I havent tried it yet, I decided to go with a different cam and carb, probably do so around june or july I will address it

A new Cam, with a larger lope maybe?? What about the Carb, why did you change that out?? what did you go with??

[slammed57]

Originally Posted by my56chevytruck

A new Cam, with a larger lope maybe?? What about the Carb, why did you change that out?? what did you go with??

I have a trick flow cam 270/276 lsa 112. I was going to go with a cam from straub 280/288 lsa 109 ( should be more of a radical idle for what Iam looking for) both cams are hydraulic. as for a carb , I have a demon 750 that i had rebuilt a few years back but Iam goin with a 850 carb from the guys over at AED.

current set up
454 .60 over 4.310 bore 2 main block
4.00" eagle crank 4340
egale 4340 rods
trick flow rollers ( but going instead with morel rollers)
280 trickflow aluminum heads oval ports
single plane intake oval (but goin to get a dual plane on it for better street manners)
balancer ( i still need to get but not sure which to get)
probe pistons right around 11:1 compression

[slammed57]

Originally Posted by KMC3420

Nice selection of parts on the calipers. The build overall is looking great!

thank you sir!

[hotrod1]

Can you elaborate on what you did for the center section of your chassis? Maybe more pics? Prebent 2x4 - one end or both? Where did you get them? What about the hood flip? Did u use a kit or ?? Thanks.

[slammed57]

I used a frame curve from weldersieries.com about $50 , and spiced them in, I bought 2 thinking i would need them but the angle was not as great as I thought it would be and used only one ,its really not hard to do ( sorry about the pic but there's limited space to get a full picture from underneath the truck) I did price out some pre bent 2x4's from art morison and it was $300 plus another $150 for shipping (due to its size) I even tried some of the metal shops around my area but bending 2x4 is not to common , tubing yes, but not 2x4 , as for the reverse hood I got it from NO LIMIT, those guys have it down, its around $400 you can build it your self but you would only save about $200 and a lot of time of trial and error(some things are worth buying in my opinion). hope this helps

[hotrod1]

Thanks for the reply. Looks great - keep up the nice work.

[slammed57]

brake master and booster is in, along with the front brake lines, also installed a rear sway bar, now I can finish up the rear brake lines

[62 Barnfind]

Originally Posted by slammed57

brake master and booster is in, along with the front brake lines, also installed a rear sway bar, now I can finish up the rear brake lines

Can you take more picks of your brake lines from the master down? Did you mount your proportioning valve on the frame? Looking for ideas

[joedoh]

clean work as always!

[Jason 56]

Looks great... making good progress!

[BIGglaSS]

Nice! I think we're about in the same spot on making progress. Hopefully doing my fuel plumbing next week.

[slammed57]

Stripped the rear fenders over the weekend. I did so with a strip it disc, I was curious why the passenger side came out so different than the driver side, So I went over to the SPI forum. One said that he runs into that when a panel has very thin old paint on it (which this fender did) Iam guessin then sun bakes the oxidation in through out the years. I even hit some areas with a 80 grit disc with no change. I was told to blast it, SO I did and it came out great. Now time to get them in some SPI epoxy, I love that stuff!!

[KMC3420]

Originally Posted by slammed57

Stripped the rear fenders over the weekend. I did so with a strip it disc, I was curious why the passenger side came out so different than the driver side, So I went over to the SPI forum. One said that he runs into that when a panel has very thin old paint on it (which this fender did) Iam guessin then sun bakes the oxidation in through out the years. I even his some areas with a 80 grit disc with no change. I was told to blast it, SO I did and it came out great. Now time to get them in some SPI epoxy, I love that stuff!!

Those turned out great. Doesn’t look like any rust through to contend with.

[gottwake]

nice work

[slammed57]

Originally Posted by KMC3420

Those turned out great. Doesn’t look like any rust through to contend with.

I did have 2 or 3 areas that I had to contend with

[dsraven]

I find when I blast stuff there is a profile left behind that is basically like miniature craters if magnified. I usually have to sand the panels or when I prime the high spots are still exposed. A body supply guy told me about it. He said when he blasts he sands before paint because otherwise the high spots can start to rust. He said it would be like priming a sheet of sandpaper, the low get paint but the highs would still be exposed. Depends on the grit of blast material you use I suppose. Anybody else sanding after blasting but before initial primer? Makes sense I guess. If you go to wipe the panel down before priming and you leave parts of the rag behind like lintel it is because the panel isn't smooth.

[slammed57]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I find when I blast stuff there is a profile left behind that is basically like miniature craters if magnified. I usually have to sand the panels or when I prime the high spots are still exposed. A body supply guy told me about it. He said when he blasts he sands before paint because otherwise the high spots can start to rust. He said it would be like priming a sheet of sandpaper, the low get paint but the highs would still be exposed. Depends on the grit of blast material you use I suppose. Anybody else sanding after blasting but before initial primer? Makes sense I guess. If you go to wipe the panel down before priming and you leave parts of the rag behind like lintel it is because the panel isn't smooth.

Yes I agree, I do a final 80 grit on the DA to smooth it out so the lint from the rags get pulled through and stuck on the metal

[my56chevytruck]

Originally Posted by slammed57

Yes I agree, I do a final 80 grit on the DA to smooth it out so the lint from the rags get pulled through and stuck on the metal

After sandblasting on mine I used 80 grit and then 150 grit to smooth it down!!! I found scratches 80 grit made.

[62 Barnfind]

Slammed57. I sent you a PM.

[slammed57]

Gettin the bed ready for some epoxy primer