My 1961 crew cab- XRMYCRU

[66Gilbert]

Great fab skills! Looks great, can't wait to see this once all the sheet metal is complete.

[jonzcustomshop]

grinding welds.... lots more of this to do!

[jonzcustomshop]

got the roof all fitted, had to get creative with the vise grips!
used some sockets, some nuts, and some other stuff that was laying around to fit in the gutter-
I am going to have to stop by harbor freight and get 2 more boxed of these clamps...
as it is now all clamped in it has stiffened up pretty nice, and for the most part it is all straight and smooth.
this is about the 5th time I have had this piece all clamped up, we didn't roll it enough at the metal shop, so it was laying flat on the driver side. At first I didn't even think the piece would fit, but after I got it trimmed down , and used the oxygen bottle a couple times as a cheap substitute for a roller it is fitting pretty nice.

so now I have to take it off one more time, I might roll it on the oxy bottle just a tiny bit more in a couple spots, then I have to prime in side and under the skin and get the drip rail all cleaned up so I can either weld or glue it down on the edges.

ha! I had one of the kids helping with the clamps, and I noticed he tagged the window cover!

[CHIZZLER]

Roof panel is looking good. wow lots of work getting that panel to align. Are you going to tig that in?

[1963c-10]

Really admire the amount of work and fab on this project. Looking great!!!

[66-PMD-GMC]

One day...
I'll have a big cab too..
One day

[Auctioneerhere]

Very Impressive. What are the small bits of square tubing / clamps? Not sure I have seen them before.

Again, very impressive build.

[jonzcustomshop]

thanks for all the compliments!
it is coming along... not a lot done this week yet, I took the roof back apart, and now will do a few final tweaks on the metal to get the shape right, then I have to prep around the work area. I am going to glue the roof panel to the drip rails, this will cut down on the welding, but more importantly put another barrier between moisture and the inside-with the glued panel, and the seam sealer, it should be watertight.

Originally Posted by Auctioneerhere

Very Impressive. What are the small bits of square tubing / clamps? Not sure I have seen them before.

Again, very impressive build.

those are butt weld clamps, pretty cheap at harbor freight, and are very helpful as long as you can access the backside.
her is a pic of one in action-

[joe231]

WOWSERS!!!
So amazing!
I'm late, but I'm all in!

[awbrown]

+ or - .060 would make or break that roof panel , great work !!!

[Jeff La]

That's gonna look good when you finish it

[66-PMD-GMC]

This thread just got really interesting. I'd like to know what kind of "glue" that is you are using. I am all for water tight but glue the panel on? That surprised me.

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by 66-PMD-GMC

This thread just got really interesting. I'd like to know what kind of "glue" that is you are using. I am all for water tight but glue the panel on? That surprised me.

its all the rage with new cars!
its is called lord fusor panel bond, 3m makes a similar product- here is a short video:https://youtu.be/LXRoiFXw2ms

[awbrown]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

its all the rage with new cars!
its is called lord fusor panel bond, 3m makes a similar product- here is a short video:https://youtu.be/LXRoiFXw2ms

I was surprised that they still spot welded it .

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by awbrown

I was surprised that they still spot welded it .

me too, the guy I work with has done a # of them and did not have any problems not spotting them.

[Bomp]

Hope I'm not too late.
Congrats and glad to see this one saved.
Sub'd

[aerotruk63]

First thread I've ever subscribed to. I've been missing out on a lot of progress.

substitute rear door hinge link

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/door-hinge-28-9-truck

G Van rear barn door hinge 73-90? Very close except for the bends.

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by aerotruk63

First thread I've ever subscribed to. I've been missing out on a lot of progress.

substitute rear door hinge link

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/door-hinge-28-9-truck

thanks for subbing!
still keeping my eye out for what the coach builders used... that model a hinge looks similar to a hinge that was used on a different style crew.

been quiet over here: I got my crossmember taken apart and ready to pancake, pulled the short step bed off the donor truck, and pulled the lh fender and step off of that for rust repair...

also got the frame stripped down and ready for modifications.
for some reason on most 60-66 short steps that I have seen the rear wheel looks too far back in the fender.
I set a tire up next to the wheel well and moved it forward a little until it looked right, it looked to be about 2 inches forward...
after I got the bed unbolted I slid it back until the tire & wheel looked right in the opening, then I measured the difference on the mounting points, again I got 2 inches.
so the crew is a 30 inch stretch, added to a swb truck, I get a 145 inch wheel base. the frame I am using is a 133 inch 1 ton model, so I should be able to slide the leaf springs back 10 inches and have it look just right. I will also slide the front crossmember forward 1 inch to compensate for the lowering, so the final wb. will be 144....

[jonzcustomshop]

productive day, spent it out at the yard (mine) gathering parts.

I had a whole group of parts picked out, but then I decided to use the 66 frame, so I had to use a different grille support, and bumper, and then since I had one, I decided on the 63-66 V8 radiator instead of the 61 6 cylinder one that I had.

I got the whole front clip pulled and in pieces , luckily it was mostly all of one truck.
then went on a walkabout to pull some little stuff, checked 10 trucks and finally found 1 (only 1!) battery tray; did the same for the front bumper and braces, and then sorted out 3 different hood 61 hood latches to find one that wasn't bent up or cracked.

I kept having to prioritize which parts to use, I am saving 1 more good set of parts for my 65 2wd suburban, so for now that was getting all the second best stuff


I got the left fender and step on my short step bed pulled and ready for rust repair (I'll be using a different fender, but even that one needs rust repair!)

[jonzcustomshop]

some pics of the parts:
the fender and step both need rust repair at the bottom where they join together.
the fender also needs some rust repair where the sheet metal folds over the inner brace where it joins to the box.

the core support was decent , but had a little rust in the corners; I cut the bottom out of another rusty one I had for the patch panel.

I got some rust converting paint on the inside of the cab, and roof, I also sanded down the joining edges with 36 grit, so that they will stick when I glue it together.

I also sectioned the front cross member 2 inches- I referred to this thread for the how to:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=543729
I did all the cutting and prep work, and I have it over at a buddys shop (he has a big mig, and is certified) to get welded up.

[jonzcustomshop]

got the cross member and 3 inch dropped spindles back today, waiting on springs; as of now the drop up front is 5 inches!

[aerotruk63]

That'll look good on the truck!

[CHIZZLER]

Cross member looks good.

[jonzcustomshop]

starting on the frame. I am using a 66 30 series 133 inch wheelbase frame.
got these pics early today of what I did a couple days ago- got one spring moved back 10 inches-
I didn't take any more pics, but today I got the other spring moved, and then drilled the 6 holes in the front to move the cross member forward 1 inch.

todays spring was a little easier, because all I had to do was copy what I did on the other side... the first was more difficult because it needed to go back 10 inches, but it was no as easy as just measuring 10 inches from the old holes.. since the frame goes up as it goes back I had to get a straight line with a square, and then measure off of that. when it was all done the front perch ended moving up about 1 3/4 to 2 inches as well as bac 10.

in the front I ran onto the same problem with moving the 6 holes forward an inch, the frame and holes taper towards each other and are not in a straight line, so I had to use a couple squares t off the radiator support cross brace to get the holes forward in the right spot. today was one of the days that I could have used an extra arm to hold the squares and scribe the marks!

[Bomp]

With moving the springs back and up will it drop the rear or will that matter? Great Build