2 for 1, My son's first Square Build

[made2drag]

soon this monster will be cruising your neighborhood......low and mean

[GMC91]

Nice build, just an interesting fact..Most of my family including my mom is from Longview. My uncle and grand parents live in Troop. My uncle works at Tyler Pipe. Im actually planning a trip up there sometime this summer.

[Can't kech me]

working a deal on a rebuilt low miles 4l60e, will post pictures when i get it. also workin a deal on set of seats that i like better and are in better condition than the ones i have. they are the 40 20 40 graphite colored cloth seats out of a 2008 silverado, with cupholders in the flip down center concole like i want. still tryin to get into a shop. will keep yall updated.

what are yalls thoughts a the gm performance hotcam that comes with the 219/228 .0525/.0525 int/exh and upgraded valve springs, and upgraded lifters, i like because its a whole set up for around 500 bucks. what is the biggest stall converter i should run with this cam? i want a pretty drivable converter but i want it to be more alot more responsive than stock. 2500? i also need some kind of rear end. my perfect rear end would be a 12 bolt with an eaton posi and moser axles, but... thats dreamin. a good ten bolt with a posi would do as long as its not a gov bomb. anybody got any genious ideas or inspirational pics of a good smooth way to put a screen deck in the dash?

[Can't kech me]

out of a 2008 silverado ,graphite colored, power drivers side seat, 40/20/40 need some cleaning. but should look pretty good with a little brushing

storage in the console

and storage under the seat

freshly rebuilt 4l60e with low miles, guy had it rebuilt and drove it for less than a month and wrecked it. plans are a transgo shift kit, corvette servo, and some kind of upgraded stall coverter, maybe 2500

[Can't kech me]

i decided against flowmasters or magnaflows or anything like that because i found these
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-638222/
they are the second pair of mufflers in the vid

Summit Racing Turbo vs. Street and Strip Race...

i don't know why it ]didnt post the pic of the tranny, but here it is

[Lost 40]

Originally Posted by Can't kech me

i decided against flowmasters or magnaflows or anything like that because i found these
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-638222/
they are the second pair of mufflers in the vid
Summit Racing Turbo vs. Street and Strip Race Mufflers - YouTube

i don't know why it ]didnt post the pic of the tranny, but here it is

Man those sound nice!

[Can't kech me]

Originally Posted by Lost 40

Man those sound nice!

yeah, you cant really go wrong for $30 a pop

[Can't kech me]

anybody used these sway bars?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BEL-5404/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BEL-5508/
i think i could make my own, but is there some magic behind it or is it exactly what it looks like?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Can't kech me

anybody used these sway bars?
i think i could make my own, but is there some magic behind it or is it exactly what it looks like?

Get a factory 3/4 or 1-ton sway bar for the front from a wrecking yard. They're 1.25" & can usually be picked up for $50 or so. Don't get a rear bar until there's a 'need' for one.

[Can't kech me]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Get a factory 3/4 or 1-ton sway bar for the front from a wrecking yard. They're 1.25" & can usually be picked up for $50 or so. Don't get a rear bar until there's a 'need' for one.

thanks scoti, i was kinda thinkin the same thing for the rear bar, wouldnt it just promorte the lightweight rearend's natural tendency to slide out? are you going to the pate swap meet at Texas motor speedway next weekend?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Can't kech me

thanks scoti, i was kinda thinkin the same thing for the rear bar, wouldnt it just promorte the lightweight rearend's natural tendency to slide out? are you going to the pate swap meet at Texas motor speedway next weekend?

Yes, it could promote the 'push' tendency which is why you should drive it as is & see if the rear bar is required.

My life is in transition @ the moment so I'm not sure about Pate.

[Can't kech me]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Yes, it could promote the 'push' tendency which is why you should drive it as is & see if the rear bar is required.

My life is in transition @ the moment so I'm not sure about Pate.

Ok, give us a call if you do decide to come out, i guess i will have to play the sway bar ordeal by year.

[Kainedogg]

Looking forward to see this build through. I got an '84 C10 project I wanted to start with my son, but he wasn't interested, so its an LS solo project. You guys set the bar real high.

[aggie91]

We have moved the truck to my new shop and have been working on mocking up the engine/trans and stuff. I started Monday on reworking the harness following the steps on lt1swap.com. SO far I have about 5 hours in the harness and all the unnecessary wires are out and the left overs are bundled back together temporarily with masking tape. I still need to make up the fuse blocks and relays and wrap in in loom tape and covering. I am going to mock it on the engine/trans before wrapping it up. You should see the pile of stuff I took out!! I will post up some pictures in the next day or so...

Korbin has learned a few things about taking parts off and putting them in baggies and labeling them. He had to learn that the hard way ...but he is learning and having a good time. Yesterday he started welding up holes in the bedsides, they looked good.

[aggie91]

Here are some pictures of the harness after I have been working on it.

All the wires that are not needed are stripped out and here is what is left:

This it the part that goes to the slector switch on the transmission, the extra wires are for functions not normally left in this standalone harness. These will be for neutral/park safety switch and back up light:

All of these loose wires have external connections. The pink wires are the various keyed power leads. These will be connected to a fuse/relay block. The orange wire is the battery power for the PCM.:

Here is what was removed and not needed for making this a standalone harness.:


At this point I have about 5 hours in modifying this harness. I need to purchase the fuse/relay blocks and decide what I want to cover the harness with once its in the truck. It is not hard work, just time consuming.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Thats a crap load of unneeded wires.. 5 hours seems pretty quick wish I was that fast..

[Can't kech me]

OK! huge update! headers are in! hedman part #45666 ceramic coated! fit perfectly and the headers themselves are beautiful! Also got some urethane bushing for the engine mount, a new 16 gal gas tank, and a sending unit should be here any day now. dad's still finishing up the wiring harness, i'm not really wire savvy, so i just kinda hand him tools and do what i can also got a plasma table cuts 5/8" steel, aluminum, and stainless, pretty dadgum cool dad cut up some motor mount plates, i havent really had time to figure out the programming software because i've been working 5 days a week, and have over 200 questions over 2 books and 2 essays due before i go back to school, and i have to memorize the periodic table.


well, the headers and pops racer working on the harness


the headers fit PERFECT and kinda look like mini longtubes


i welded the spacers that hold the bed floor 4" higher to the frame so it won't be so hard putting the bed on and taking it off



and of course the plasma table

[aggie91]

Korbin's welding is getting better. We are making good progress on it now. I have been following the information to do the harness on lt1swap.com. I have the mods done, I just decided to make it look better when put on the engine. We are going to put the PCM in the cad and have as much of the harness hidden as possible. I am in the process of taking each component part of the harness back to the two main connectors on the PCM. The way they are done from the factory, they are a twisted mess in one large bundle. They will still be in a large bundle neat the computer, but will be separated into harness that make sense as to where on they go on engine and transmission. Some of the wires I will need to lengthen for sure and might have to shorten some. I think it will look great.

The Hedman Hedders look great and fit great. From all the threads about hedders, I think these fit the best and do not hang below the frame rails. Once we have a few more parts, we will find the final position for the engine/trans and then make up the custom motor mounts and transmission mount. Stay tuned!

[made2drag]

great job on the welding Korbin!

[Can't kech me]

Originally Posted by made2drag

great job on the welding Korbin!

thanks, i've been practicing quite a bit between this truck, a go kart, and shop at school

[aggie91]

Big day today. Korbin turned 15 last month and our schedule has not let us get down to the DPS office to get his learners permit till today. We have now been here waiting for 2 hours We hope to be done soon. Some have been here 3 hours!
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[Car'n'Guitars]

I have been watching this build for a while and you have made great process so far. Texas law must be very different than Indiana law, because out here we have to be at least 16 to get our learners permit. At least 16 and 9 months to get our probationary driver licenses and then 18 to get out full licenses. But anyways keep up the good work, your lucky you get to spend time building a vehicle with my dad. The most I got to do was swap the front axle on the truck I own now when I was 10-11 years old, I am now 17 about to turn 18. So cherish the time you get to spend with your dad now and you will learn a lot about many things while building a truck you will love.

[aggie91]

Well after 3 hours, Korbin passed his test and got his learner's permit. Here in Texas the rules are must be 15 to take the written test for a learner's permit, with 6 hours of classroom instruction, parents are allowed to teach the driver's education material. You must have the permit for 6 months and be at least 16 to get your provisional licence. At 21, you get your "regular" licence. You can skip the driver's ed, but you have to be 18 to get your provisional licence.

We have enjoyed working on this project together.

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Well after 3 hours, Korbin passed his test and got his learner's permit. Here in Texas the rules are must be 15 to take the written test for a learner's permit, with 6 hours of classroom instruction, parents are allowed to teach the driver's education material. You must have the permit for 6 months and be at least 16 to get your provisional licence. At 21, you get your "regular" licence. You can skip the driver's ed, but you have to be 18 to get your provisional licence.

We have enjoyed working on this project together.

great news

[aggie91]

Korbin had some buddies over at the shop last night, so I put them to work and we set the cab on the frame. We (I) will need to do some work on the trans hump before anything else gets done. The cab floor hits the trans right now and will not sit down on the bushings...

Wire harness is 95% complete. I am waiting to finish once we decide where the PCM will be mounted in the cab. Plan is to have that and teh motor mounts done soon...