SiX-fo SuBuRbAn

[straps57]

Just saw this thread. Looking forward to some more updates.

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Yeah, sometimes some heat will help get a drum loose. I assume you have already tried persuading them with a 3-5 pounder?

unfortunately, an 8 pounder!!
they are on there!

[jonzcustomshop]

so... here is how my week went!

here is a message I sent out to captian fab, who has been offering me some expert guidance with some of the build:

I pulled and installed the 3/4 ton guv loc 3:42 posi rear in the sub, the rear brakes had broken springs, and pieces fallen out and laying in the bottom of the drums, so I might need to replace all (or some) of the hardware.

now I am in the process of pulling the front differential (3:42) out of the donor truck.

3 issues with this:
1) it has auto locking hubs that I will have to change out at some point.
2) the left hand rotor wiggles around a lot! -probably a bad bearing or maybe just loose?
3)I can't get the steering arm off, I got the center conical washer out, but have pretty much destroyed the other 2, there is nothing left to pry ,punch, or grab to get them out, I have heated them , and beat the heck out of the arm, but no luck-
-I need to use the other steering arm, because it is a 4 inch lift arm that came with the kit-

....so in all this I decided to pull the cover off the rear out of the 64 sub, I was hoping it would turn out to be a 3:42, and I could just leave the current front differential in the 64... no such luck, it is a 3:73...however surprise, surprise it is also a guv loc rear!!)

the front diff in the 64 sub has manual locking hubs and the rotors are tight-no wiggling-, but the passenger side drive shaft has a wallowed out u-joint

this and the posi in the 3:42 truck was my initial reason for changing out the differentials- ( I did not know that I already had a guv loc in it!)

so here are the options : keep going on the 3:42 front diff: I haven't tried to weld the bolts to the studs and unscrew them-

probably the only other option if that doesn't work is to switch out the entire spindle assembly with the one from the other truck-

or just switch the 3:73 rear back into the 64-
this is the one that I couldn't get the rear drums off of ( I haven't tried the heat yet), so I have no idea what the brakes look like- most likely better than the ones on the 3:42 though

and then I would be back to replacing, or fixing the rh axle shaft on the front of the 3:73 diff.

I will be running the 396,th400, and 12X33 inch tires on this rig, the plan for this sub, is a 4X4 that I like for the winter months, no off roading, unless its accidental-haha, mostly in town driving, there is only a 1 mile stretch of my commute that is over 45 mph.



capt. suggested putting the 3:73 back in .

so that's how my week went, right back where I started a week ago!
so live and learn... next time I pull the cover first!

the only step forward from this whole ordeal was a new set of front brake pads that I pulled off the red truck.

my next step will be to finish up a little wiring ,and get this running so I can pull it in and out of the garage while I do the rest of the rust repair.

[SFTorange]

Glad to see you back at work on this Jon.

[MikeS.]

Winter 2014-15 here we come!

[ChiefRocka]

Go Jon, GO !!!

Looking good man !

[jonzcustomshop]

slow day today, just did some little stuff:
I hooked the HEI wire up: I checked out a few threads and the consensus was 50/50 on whether to hook it to the pink terminal of the ignition switch, or to the "IGN" terminal on the fuse block. I just ran it from the BATT terminal of the HEI to the IGN terminal of the fuse block. I just used a 12 gauge wire that I chopped out of the harness of the 88 sub.

I went out to the parts trucks and found 1 unbroken dome light base(!) (I do have a couple more , but out of 15 cabs you would think there would be more than 4 of them! - also 2 were 60-61, and they are silver, not white-) I carefully removed it, cleaned it up and installed it in the sub.

the right side of the hood was sitting up about a 1/2 inch above the cowl, it would not go down farther even if you pushed down on it. So I played around with all the hinge adjustment, but only made it worse...
On A tip from a body man friend of mine I decided to replace the hood spring, and while I had it all apart, I figured I would change out the hinge too.
I am using a 61 GMC hood off my old 4000 series truck, I looked around, and luckily I saved the inner fender well from that truck, and the hinge and spring were still on it.
That did the trick, the hood sits in the right spot now.
However I am not sure if it was the spring , or the hinge that was causing the problem...

while I was on the hood, the lh side was sitting a little bit low, so I switched out the little bumper that is bolted to the back of the hood with one from another truck that had more meat on the rubber, and adjusted it until the hood sat up a little.

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

slow day today, just did some little stuff:
I hooked the HEI wire up: I checked out a few threads and the consensus was 50/50 on whether to hook it to the pink terminal of the ignition switch, or to the "IGN" terminal on the fuse block. I just ran it from the BATT terminal of the HEI to the IGN terminal of the fuse block. I just used a 12 gauge wire that I chopped out of the harness of the 88 sub.

I went out to the parts trucks and found 1 unbroken dome light base(!) (I do have a couple more , but out of 15 cabs you would think there would be more than 4 of them! - also 2 were 60-61, and they are silver, not white-) I carefully removed it, cleaned it up and installed it in the sub.

the right side of the hood was sitting up about a 1/2 inch above the cowl, it would not go down farther even if you pushed down on it. So I played around with all the hinge adjustment, but only made it worse...
On A tip from a body man friend of mine I decided to replace the hood spring, and while I had it all apart, I figured I would change out the hinge too.
I am using a 61 GMC hood off my old 4000 series truck, I looked around, and luckily I saved the inner fender well from that truck, and the hinge and spring were still on it.
That did the trick, the hood sits in the right spot now.
However I am not sure if it was the spring , or the hinge that was causing the problem...

while I was on the hood, the lh side was sitting a little bit low, so I switched out the little bumper that is bolted to the back of the hood with one from another truck that had more meat on the rubber, and adjusted it until the hood sat up a little.

Even the little things that need attention, is progress... good job

[rusty76]

Just spent some time reading through this build and I really enjoyed it. I can't wait to see your winter beater.

[RANDY COX]

1 word ASWESOME. I don't think I would have ever attempted to replace the flooring and windshield area. It takes some skills and B__lls to do that. And sorry to hear about your Dad. when I look at builds like this it motivates me to work on mine, I miss my 70 Burb 4x4 had to sell it a few yrs back, Glad to see your doing a 4x4 version I like the 4x4's.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=559169
This is the link to my 64 4x4 it's sittin on a 70 4x4 frame... These trucks seem to like rust
Keep up the good work it's gonna be killer when it's done....

[jonzcustomshop]

thanks guys, been slow going on this, about a month ago I hooked up the HEI to a hot/switched terminal on the fuse block, and got some fluids in it and got it fired up.
after that I have been procrastinating with the rest of this build....

[jonzcustomshop]

finally remembered to get a shot of it with the hood on, going to use a 61 gmc hood..

[pimpston65]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

finally remembered to get a shot of it with the hood on, going to use a 61 gmc hood..

liken the snouts, not the snow!!!

[Lokin4AReason]

looking good =0)

[tpimuncie]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

I got the 86 blazer seat mounted in the rear ( a lot more work than that statement lets on!!)
bolted the front hinge through the floor, then cut out the rear latch mounts out of the suburban, and cut and trimmed them and the floor to fit. used the seat belts out of the blazer, and the mounts from the sub (they weren't as rusty, and had a cap over the bolt hole.)
the seat fits real nice and is comfortable.

Sick!

[jonzcustomshop]

2 days ago I fired this up (literally) !!
I put some fuel in , primed it to get it to fire, cranked it over, it backfired and started a small engine fire!
luckily I was able to smother it with my shirt, so nothing actually burned.

but I figured I better have help the next time I try to fire it up, so my mechanic friend stopped by today and helped out, we checked out the plug wires first, but they were in the correct order, primed it again (!!) and got it started. after running it for a minute or so he told me that the float(s) are stuck, so I got the carb pulled , and am going to take it by his place in a couple of days to get it all cleaned up.

I am going get this so I can move it around, and trailer it over to my house so I can get around to welding up the pass. rocker and the 1/4 panels. - I also have to re- do a driver fender for it , since I stole the one I did a while back for my crew cab build.

[aotte1]

Jon,

Great build, lots of knowledge shared.

thanks,
Les

[aotte1]

Jon,

Have a couple of follow-up questions, on how you installed your front sway bar (SB) front brackets. Looks like you used the cross member with brackets from the 88 Sub.?

Do think the positioning ( relationship of vertical rear and front mounting points) of the SB in the 4X4 '88 Sub is the same or similar to a '78 truck. Question relates to the angle at which SB is in relationship to the axle. Hoping to avoid binding as it moves thru suspension travel.

Also, any effect on where front SB brackets, mount length wise in frame, any change from using the newer long springs and spring mounting brackets, and conversion from 2 WD to 4WD. Asking as I am thinking of usimg original cross member and adding brackets from '78 (will need a few mods to fit).

My build is '64K10 long bed and installing newer K10 '78 front axle and steering.

Researching/trying to see if the front SB bracket from '78 cross member will fit '64 cross member. It may need some small mods and addition of a short strap.

Photo below showing where thinking of installing bracket, will cut slot so it can slide onto lower frame rail.

Les

[jonzcustomshop]

I think you are going in the right direction.
just make the brackets work where the sway bar meets the frame.
I had to pull the radiator cross member to get the 88 sub cross member to fit, and I just bolted it in where it fit, so I am not sure on the differences between the 2wd, and 4wd mounts in 78, but didn't the 2wd's mount just directly to the frame rail with a little spacer bracket?

[aotte1]

Jon,

Thanks for your help.

The '78 parts I am using, are all from a K10 truck. So will continue as you suggested, making the '78 K10 front SB brackets fit original cross member. With a little modification.

Thanks again,

Les

[aotte1]

Jon,

Some photos of my progress, on adding the '78 sway bar, to '64 4x4 frame.

More detail in my build.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=632508
'64' K10 Project Long Bed

First two photos are drivers side, third photo is passenger side, and forth photo is sway bar partially installed, still need to do some more work on it, before finished.

Jon, thanks again for your help above. Hope it is ok to link my information in your build.

Les

[jonzcustomshop]

looks good, maybe bend some strap to connect those 2 inner pieces with the holes to the top.

[aotte1]

Jon,

The strap sounds good, once the engine is out, should be able to bend it to fit the cross member. Will try to heat up the strap with my TIG welder, getting it red just before it puddles, then bend it.

Les

[jonzcustomshop]

if you have a good vise, just stick it in where you want it to bend and smack it down with a 3 or 8 pound hammer.

[jonzcustomshop]

man, this thing is just fighting me at every turn!
my friend pulled the carb apart, and reported that it was pretty gummed up with old bad gas, mainly on one side (probably from when I had the engine sitting out), he cleaned it as best he could with carb cleaner and told me to give it a try.

there is a thin aluminum spacer between the carb and manifold , it had a gasket on each side, so I went to o'reillys and picked up a couple gaskets.

put the carb on and did get it to run for a few seconds, but not good, so when I was checking under the hood I see "smoke" (exhaust) coming from under the left side of the carb.
I get the carb off and check it out and the manifold has a passage under the carb that exhaust goes through to heat the base of the carb up, one of the gaskets I got did not cover the hole, so I go back to o'reillys to find the gasket, it is marked 65-67 327 and 396 holley carb only. they have to order it.

in the meantime I completely disassemble the edelbrock carb,-but not before checking all the others I have -apparently I have 5 total!!_ but all the others have small primaries and big secondaries, and 2 are electric choke, the one I have for this has the same size primaries and secondaries.
I got it all apart and soaked it with carb cleaner until I could see it streaming through every hole.

.....so yesterday I put it all back together, correct gaskets, carb works, you crack the throttle , and the gas sprays out,and the thing will not fire!!!
just cranks over and tries a tiny bit to fire every few cranks, but will not start up

..call my friend again, with the new problem, and he said now it is probably ignition
so I will pull a plug and see if I am getting spark, and I will probably have to chase this with money -new plugs, wires, cap/rotor-... if this fixes it, at least all that stuff will be new...