1968

[gdavis]

Here are the pictures of the spacers that will not work on my hinges.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Xeen

Yeah the stud is longer on the 1971-72 upper and lower ball joint which is what you will need. Heres a little trivia for you, front Disc brakes became standard in 1971.
Heres where it gets interesting though both the 1971 and 1972 came standard with front Disc however the brake lines are routed completely different between both years, so you will need to use the 1972 crossmember or relocate your brake hose mounting tabs and buy this aftermarket kit to mount the rear brake lines.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Remova...ose,45896.html
Basically you need to commit to using the 1972 brake system.

I was hoping that the ball joints would work. For I just bought the ones in the 68 frame. But I guess I will have to pull the engine and transmission out of my rolling frame and install the whole unit out of the 72. also the rear end. I like to work on my truck but this my friend is stepping backwards.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by jonny..2008

go here and click the one that applies to you.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

the ball joints are not the only issue. They are longer that the drum brakes.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Bomp

Not sure what to think of the spacer between the hinge and truck. If it came off it should go back on. You may be experiencing some "Murphys Law".
Can you use the a arms and everything? Convert the whole thing over all at once? I would think the only difference would be if one is a 3/4 ton vs a 1/2 ton. Don't quote me on that though.
I pulled the front cross member out of my '66/a arms/spindles/everything all at once and stuck in a '79. Only had to drill two holes.
Might try asking a reputable parts store. If you get someone nice they should be helpful on a question like that.
Good Luck. For running around not getting anything done, you sure got alot done.

I posted some pictures of the spacers on my site. Please go and see what i am doing wrong. in the picture you can see where I oblong one hole so they will match.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by jonny..2008

there are more guys here who are more knowledgeable than i.
BUT i did have to switch the upper and lower ball to get '77 spindles on.
dont forget to check lug nut sizes too. i missed that.
also check tie rod end taper for disc spindles. i changed them 'cause they were cheap (bought 77 ones to match the spindles) but not sure if the taper is the same. i know the adjuster is different between 69 and 77.

Don't cut your self short. You have to know what you are doing, you owned a chevrolet don't you. Ha Ha.

[jonny..2008]

Originally Posted by gdavis

the ball joints are not the only issue. They are longer that the drum brakes.

IF I understand and have not confused myself about the situation:

you shouldnt nee to pull the motor or change the cross member.
change the ball joints to match your spindles, get the 72 flex brake lines/ m/c /disc drum prop valve and be back on track.
why would the cross member have to swap?
like i said i may be confusing all my info from the last few weeks with yours, but check before you back up. it might save you a day.
good luck in either case and nice work on the sheet metal so far.

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by jonny..2008

IF I understand and have not confused myself about the situation:

you shouldnt nee to pull the motor or change the cross member.
change the ball joints to match your spindles, get the 72 flex brake lines/ m/c /disc drum prop valve and be back on track.
why would the cross member have to swap?
like i said i may be confusing all my info from the last few weeks with yours, but check before you back up. it might save you a day.
good luck in either case and nice work on the sheet metal so far.

The reason I am advising him to change the crossmember is because the 1972 brake lines are routed completely different then all other years and the brake lines route up over the top of the crossmember under the motor mounts to the front of the cross member and the hard point to mount the flexible rubber brake hose is on the front of the crossmember.
While it is true you could just relocate the brake hose brackets from the back of the 1967-71 crossmember to the front you might as well change out the whole crossmember to the 1972 version since he has one handy, also the 1971 brake line kits are on backorder untill the end of time and the 1972 brake line kits are in stock and ready to go, however its six of one half dozen of another, both ways will work just fine. In my opinion the 1972 brake line routing is superior to all other years, there is a reason why they changed the routing for the 1972 model year, if you study the design you will figure out why.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by jonny..2008

IF I understand and have not confused myself about the situation:

you shouldnt nee to pull the motor or change the cross member.
change the ball joints to match your spindles, get the 72 flex brake lines/ m/c /disc drum prop valve and be back on track.
why would the cross member have to swap?
like i said i may be confusing all my info from the last few weeks with yours, but check before you back up. it might save you a day.
good luck in either case and nice work on the sheet metal so far.

the bracket for the brake line is on the wrong side. And if that is different what else is different. I have the whole unit I might as well change it. I am not sure if the angle on the cross member is different. as far as the spindle.?????????

[gdavis]

Today I could not get motivated. All I did was to remove the front brakes on the 1972 frame. that were froze up. and I welded the inter rocker on the pass side of my cab. I only spot welded then in. so I did that,

[gdavis]

welded

[gdavis]

My Son-n-law came by today and brought me 4 crome alum wheels and tires and I have to say they are not that bad. They took them off of a truck in their fleet. So thanks a lot. save me money.

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by gdavis

the bracket for the brake line is on the wrong side. And if that is different what else is different. I have the whole unit I might as well change it. I am not sure if the angle on the cross member is different. as far as the spindle.?????????

If there are other differences they are minor and wont cause any problems.

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by gdavis

My Son-n-law came by today and brought me 4 crome alum wheels and tires and I have to say they are not that bad. They took them off of a truck in their fleet. So thanks a lot. save me money.

Nice score on the wheels.

[gdavis]

Today, I feel like I got something done. It don't look like I did. I finshed getting my 1972 frame over to my work area. Now I can start swapping parts over to the 67 frame. Disk brakes and rear end.
I also finshed welding and grind the inter rocker on the pass side.

[gdavis]

and here is the same rocker primed and ready to go. I hope I can install the outer rocker this week.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Bomp

Not sure what to think of the spacer between the hinge and truck. If it came off it should go back on. You may be experiencing some "Murphys Law".
Can you use the a arms and everything? Convert the whole thing over all at once? I would think the only difference would be if one is a 3/4 ton vs a 1/2 ton. Don't quote me on that though.
I pulled the front cross member out of my '66/a arms/spindles/everything all at once and stuck in a '79. Only had to drill two holes.
Might try asking a reputable parts store. If you get someone nice they should be helpful on a question like that.
Good Luck. For running around not getting anything done, you sure got alot done.

BOMP: Have I got the wrong spacers for the hinge. I am at a stand still until I figure out the spacers. it takes me about 10 to 15 minutes a spacer to rat tail them out. I like to work but come on now this is not the way I planed to spend 4 to 5 hours.

[Bomp]

Okay, Now you can't quote me on this but from the research I've done,,,,,the spacers or "shims" slip in between the hinge and truck. We already knew that.
What I would suggest is putting the door on and seeing how well the gaps are. Without any shims. The gaps from top of door to roof, rear of the door, and bottom to the rocker. If rocker isn't installed I personally measure the gappage between the A pillar, roof, and B pillar. On my '66 the plate that the hinge bolts bolt to slide around a bit to allow for some adjustment. Starting the bolts and lightly snugging them up finger tight still allows you to gently move the door around to adjust your gaps.
This is one site that may be of way more help than what I can give.
http://www.ecklerstrucks.com/chevy-t...1947-1972.html


I also looked up this thread and they seemed to discuss some hinge/shim issues.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=514985


and this thread too.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=529045

Sorry for not checking in sooner, couch got ahold of me and was turning me into a potato.
Hope this helps and good luck. Your doing not only awesome but Killer Awesome!!!

[Bomp]

This one seems really good too.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=423586


This one but might not be as helpful.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=539521

[jonny..2008]

glad you moved forward. i had a poor day.

[Xeen]

err as far as I know those arent hinge shims those are door jam latch plate shims which is the reason they dont fit the spacing for the bolt holes on the hinges.

[Bomp]

Im not very much help.
Posted via Mobile Device

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Xeen

err as far as I know those arent hinge shims those are door jam latch plate shims which is the reason they dont fit the spacing for the bolt holes on the hinges.

My neighbor whick has a 65 came over and he said that they are latch shims. I felt like a nut. He said that the hinge has no shims. It seams that the hinge post needs to be strong.If you put shims there it would not be as strong. for the hinge would not have a solid place for the metal to metal. Not shim to metal. At least he didn't hit me or any thing.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Bomp

Okay, Now you can't quote me on this but from the research I've done,,,,,the spacers or "shims" slip in between the hinge and truck. We already knew that.
What I would suggest is putting the door on and seeing how well the gaps are. Without any shims. The gaps from top of door to roof, rear of the door, and bottom to the rocker. If rocker isn't installed I personally measure the gappage between the A pillar, roof, and B pillar. On my '66 the plate that the hinge bolts bolt to slide around a bit to allow for some adjustment. Starting the bolts and lightly snugging them up finger tight still allows you to gently move the door around to adjust your gaps.
This is one site that may be of way more help than what I can give.
http://www.ecklerstrucks.com/chevy-t...1947-1972.html


I also looked up this thread and they seemed to discuss some hinge/shim issues.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=514985


and this thread too.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=529045

Sorry for not checking in sooner, couch got ahold of me and was turning me into a potato.
Hope this helps and good luck. Your doing not only awesome but Killer Awesome!!!

got it figured out with the spacers. thanks for the links.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Xeen

err as far as I know those arent hinge shims those are door jam latch plate shims which is the reason they dont fit the spacing for the bolt holes on the hinges.

u r right about the shims.

[gdavis]

Today I dry fitted the drivers door. It worked geat. I install a small brace temp. to keep in from moving again. Now all I need is the front floor pan and inter rocker. and rear pillar drivers side. I install the drivers side cab corner and primed it.