1952 1 Ton Rebuild

[av8tr33337]

Yes there probably is, but don't know where to find it off the top of my head. As a matter of fact I think that one of the guys who cut his original column down went with a saginaw non power unit. I could be wrong but search here and on the H.A.M.B. and I'm sure you will find it.

Possibly a toyota non power unit as well.

[mechanixman]

Alright
Well I got a flywheel and oil adapter for $25 today.
I hope to have the new engine running I get the block back from the machine shop.

[coralhead]

Nick, I've seen others put a shim between the steering box and the frame to get some more side clearance. Not sure how much you need as the more you put in the more it will move the wheel in the cab. Do you have any room to offset the motor mounts to the other side without the headers hitting the frame? (Maybe scallop the frame a bit for the header?)

[mechanixman]

When I put the mounts in, I was able to shift the motor to the passenger side about 5/8 of an inch. any more, and the mount wouldn't work.

I tried rationalize the shim idea, but I don't think I'll be able to shim 1/2 an inch into 2-3 inches.

[coralhead]

Originally Posted by mechanixman

When I put the mounts in, I was able to shift the motor to the passenger side about 5/8 of an inch. any more, and the mount wouldn't work.

I tried rationalize the shim idea, but I don't think I'll be able to shim 1/2 an inch into 2-3 inches.

Nope.

[mechanixman]

Ha ha I didn't think so.
But I found this gearbox, and I think it might work.
I'll take a tour of the local yards, and see if I find a used one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Ram-Pi...-/171078684714

Has anyone else tried a box similar to this?

[mechanixman]

Well I got the engine built, and installed it in the frame. I'm having problems though, with starting it.

I put the positive on the correct stud, and the negative on the motor mount. then used a screwdriver to connect the positive terminal to the starter. everything seems to be fine, But when I try to start it, it barely turns over. Plus my jumper cables (brand new, 2 gauge) are heating up like no other. When I take out the plugs, the motor turns over a bit more freely. But it still seems like the starter is struggling.

[mechanixman]

Not much done lately, one of the rocker studs was bent to hell and actually broke it.
Took the head the machine shop, and got that stud replaced.
I managed to get a whole new set of poly lock nuts, and a set of ram horns for $25.
So I'll be putting everything together (again) this weekend, hopefully will fire.
Oh yeah, and I turn 18 today. I guess that means any "fun" I have with the truck will be taken seriously by the local fuzz.

[coralhead]

well happy birthday......

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by mechanixman

Not much done lately, one of the rocker studs was bent to hell and actually broke it.
Took the head the machine shop, and got that stud replaced.
I managed to get a whole new set of poly lock nuts, and a set of ram horns for $25.
So I'll be putting everything together (again) this weekend, hopefully will fire.
Oh yeah, and I turn 18 today. I guess that means any "fun" I have with the truck will be taken seriously by the local fuzz.

Happy birthday! and the truck is lookin good!

[Daze57]

x 2 ^ on the truck

and i think it goes ''happy birthday homes !!!!!!!

keep up the good work

'' local fuzz'' does anyone talk like that anymore ? lol

[_Ogre]

happy bday mechanixman. 18? wow, thanks for reminding me how old i am

[av8tr33337]

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!

I also tried using jumper cables from my battery to where they needed to go to crank my engine while it was on the engine stand. I got the same result. I put actual battery cables on the battery to the correct contact points and it made a world of difference. I'm thinking the size and length of the cables creates more "Impedance" or "resistance" than you want.

[mechanixman]

Thanks everyone!

Originally Posted by av8tr33337

I'm thinking the size and length of the cables creates more "Impedance" or "resistance" than you want.

I thought the cables may be the problem, corrosion also causing more resistance, so we got a new set of 2 gauge jumper cables, and tired it. Same problem, spins well without plugs in, but once they're in, it doesn't want to spin. We bought a compression tester from harbor freight, and tried it out....we got 65-80 psi for the first few cylinders, I didn't even want to check the other cylinders. We thought the tester may be broken, so we rented one from o' reilly, and it read 30 psi!! I'm starting to believe my cam may not be timed right...Even though I lined up the notches on both timing sprockets.

Away from the motor frustrations,
I got a gallon of the paint I plan on using for the truck, and got the model painted. I think it looks pretty slick.
Dad and I went garage sale cruising, and picked up some neat things.
We got a Snap on Timing gun and a DevilBiss Paint gun for $5 each. And a really cool Westinghouse fan for $60.
I just finished welding in the patch I made for the bedside. I think it looks pretty good, but you can feel a divot where I was grinding it smooth. I'll post pictures tomorrow when I have some light.

[mechanixman]

So here's the bedside almost finished.
I know I'm not finished grinding, but I figured I'm prob not going to touch it for a while so I threw some primer on it. I'm happy with the part behind the bed pocket so I threw some undercoating on it.
There's the (soon to be) color of the truck.
and the fan

[54worker]

Any more updates. Just read the whole build, in 3 settings. Interested in where this is going.

[mechanixman]

Well first off, thank you
I appreciate the interest.
Not too much has been going on, it seems like anything truck related is going at a snail's pace right now.
I've gotten the engine to fire, it's run a few times for about 15 sec. I was going to post an update when I had the engine running reliably.

In addition to engine, and some bodywork to the cab, I've been tackling the brakes. In order to switch from drums to chevy discs, I need to make the hub smaller, so the rotor sit's on the hub correctly. More information here.

So I have the hub at school right now, we getting ready to mil it out. I made copy of the hub on some 3D modeling software, then created the cut paths for the mill to machine it out. I'm just waiting for the teachers and I to find a way to secure the hub so it won't shake, rattle or roll while we're cutting.

[mechanixman]

Spent the afternoon today sanding and throwing some filler primer on the cab.
Does anyone know what that circular access panel is for. (passenger side, would almost be in front of the heater.)
I feel like if I just weld the plate on without know what it's for, it'll be a mistake I'll pay for it later.
Thanks,
-Nick

[coralhead]

Originally Posted by mechanixman

Spent the afternoon today sanding and throwing some filler primer on the cab.
Does anyone know what that circular access panel is for. (passenger side, would almost be in front of the heater.)
I feel like if I just weld the plate on without know what it's for, it'll be a mistake I'll pay for it later.
Thanks,
-Nick

That hole is for the heater blower motor. The end protrudes through the firewall slightly and has a metal ring and rubber gasket that seals arounf the motor casing. Unless you are putting a different heater or no heater you may not need it. I figure in your local you will go with a heater.

[mechanixman]

ha ha yeah a heater will sure be nice. Especially in Milwaukee.. (MSOE is my first choice in colleges right now)
Before I actually got to taking the truck apart, that's what I thought it was for, but my truck already had (what I assume is) the factory heater in. And the plate was still bolted in place.
I guess there's no reason for me to weld it up anyway, it's not like I'm filling in all the whole in the firewall.

-Nick

[mechanixman]

Just some more bodywork.
I went to a local body shop and asked what body filler to use, the owner said I just HAD to use Rage Gold. I got a gallon for $50 on ebay.

[coralhead]

Looking good Nick. I used a small sure form hand block that most people use doing drywall. It looks like a hand plane with a cheese grater face. I let the filler set up a bit and use the "cheese grater" to cut and remove a lot of the extra before it sets up too hard. My .04 worth.

[blue 72 gmc 4x4]

Good job on the truck, looks like it's coming along!

[mechanixman]

Thanks guys,
John,
I'll have to look for one of those. I was using 100 before it fully cured, and it seemed to clean it up enough.
have you used those foam sanding pads?
I picked some up at menards, they come in a 300 grit range, and soak up water like a sponge so it's pretty easy to wet sand.
I've been using them just before I shoot the primer. They seem to work pretty well.

[av8tr33337]

Looking good man. Nice to see it progressing.