Backyard Cummins

[C20scott]

Finally extended my exhaust past the passenger fenderwell. I added a 4" flex-pipe for engine movement, then adapted it to 5" once it leaves the fenderwell. It tucks up nicely, you cant even see it from the side of the truck. Eventually i plan to route it through the bedside in front of the rear tire. But for now it just dumps out. bad pics again sorry

[C20scott]

Got a tailgate on, and soon-to-be bumper set in place for the first time. I chopped off a piece of a 10-wheeler frame rail at a wrecking yard. Dimensions are about 8" x 3" x 1/4" C-Channel. The goal is to fill the holes and reconfigure it to fit and look halfway decent. And also to destroy anything that I might back into.

[JointTech]

destroy anything that I might back into.

awesome

[ky-donzi]

Nice truck.

One thing, be aware you may have altered your rear pinion angle with the shackle flip. I have a shackle flip on a 80 K20, it kept eating U-joints and finally figured out what the problem was. IMO shackle flips cause more problems than they solve... if your not sold on it, or you have problems with u-joints, or tire-well aliment you may want to reconsider..... Other than my 2 cents......
AWESOME RIDE!

[C20scott]

The flip definately bettered(lessened) my pinion angle. I am running a double-cardan joint in my shaft though, so there is no issue with t-case to pinion alignment.

I can say that i am regretting the decision to do the flip because of the axle alignment issues, but i have already dumped to much money into this to change now! If i have issues down the road i will switch it back up.

[bignbad]

any up dates?

[C20scott]

Im pretty far behind on this project, i have been driving it around for the last few months and putting very little work into it.

I rebuilt a set of stock leafs that i got for free, urethane bushings, and the ORD offset blocks. My axle position and ride height are right on the money now...

[C20scott]

Then i spent some time aligning body panels. I was sick of looking at the truck the way it was. I spend about 70 bucks in krylon camo paint, 15 bucks in stickers, and an afternoon doing a light sand/prep job. This will be my temporary paint job.

[C20scott]

The short term list includes these items:

- Rear bumper install

- 40" tires and fender flares

- Getting gear ratio, diffs, and steering linkage dailed in

- Cleaning up wiring/relays and on-board air system

- Re-engineering the radiator shroud out of tube steel(i cant stand the hack job that i did to the stock one)

I have been driving this truck everywhere lately, mainly to see what its weak points are. Havent broken down yet...

[Dieselwrencher]

It's nice to hear you're drib=ving it and enjoying it. It is looking nice too. Keep at it!

[C20scott]

Decided to scrap the frame rail rear bumper idea and start fresh. 3/16 plate and tread plate. It isnt done yet, still need to box the backside in and make diagonal supports to the frame.

[PBO]

C20Scott, I'm currently working on putting a 5.9 Cummins in a conversion. It would be very helpful if I knew a couple of dimensions. I have no "old" Dodge chassis to refer to and I need the horizontal distance between the motor mount notches and the difference in height from one side to the other. The motor mounts on the engine have had the rubber centers removed by the previous owner and I now have the engine "hanging by chains between the rails. Info appreciated; great job you're doing. PBO

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice bumper! I like it a lot better than the frame rail one!

[Code6charles]

Originally Posted by C20scott

Ive been tied up with everything else lately. Finally made some more progress today.

2 weeks ago i got the cummins clutch MC mounted and installed. I had to make a custom mount and weld it to the firewall. I also put in upgraded governor springs in the engine.

I'm in the process of building a chevy cummins as well. Can you give me more details on your custom mount for the dodge clutch master cylinder?

[ryanroo]

I agree on the bumper. way better than the framerail thing. Looking good!

[C20scott]

PBO - I could give you dimensions, but I would advise against fabbing up a complete set of custom mounts without some sort of test fit. If i did it all over again, i would move the motor 2" further back and 1/2" down. It would have saved me from needing to chop up the radiator shroud and hood(something that more experience would have solved). And You can buy those inserts pretty easily, I think energy suspension sells urethane ones...

Code6 - Get a piece of 1/8" sheet, or slightly thinner, cut a square hole. The dodge clutch master cylinder will basically "twist-lock" into place. Once i had that part perfectly sized on my workbench, i cut a larger hole in my firewall, then welded the sheet into place. I am in the process of reinforcing mine because i dont trust the plastic clutch MC.

[Code6charles]

Thanks for the reply, care to share your new ideas on the MC?

[PBO]

You've done a great job on your project; I look forward to more. If you have the time I'd really appreciate the dimension for the engine mounts you made. I have no access to an undamaged frame from which to take measurement. Could you provide me with the measurements horizontally and vertically for your engine mounts I'm going to put a 5.9 Cummins in a 77 Dodge M500 motor home chassis and place a 48 dodge COE on top. Any help is appreciated. Jim

[PBO]

Sorry, I missed your earlier reply. My situation is a little bit different, I'm not trying to "crowd" the engine into a tight space, I have lots of room. I need the dimensions so I can create receivers on the chassis for the stock engine mounts to the chassis. Thanks again for your time. Jim 360-372-2874

[C20scott]

Code6, Basically in my hacking on this truck, i was skeptical about the plastic clutch MC's ability to not break free of it's mount. I have the "HD" one that i think Southbend sells. If you cut the hole perfectly then you will be good to go, but i am always in a rush and cut things with an angle grinder. So i am planning to create a plate to go around the mount to ensure that even if it were to break or fall out, i wouldnt lose my clutch completely.

let me know if you want me to show more pix.

[Code6charles]

Thanks for the reply but I went with a ford clutch mc. Just drilled the hole where the dimple for a factory mc was and drilled out holes for the mounting studs and cut up the ford backing plate to fit the Chevy fire wall. Wasn't too hard. Thanks for the reply anyway.

[ryanroo]

Scott,

if you are interested i may be able to help.



i made a file to cut the shape. fits like a glove.



i got sketched at a first too about the plastic, but they have been running this style for over 20 years. i cant remember one story of the housing busting leaving the clutch inop. so i decided i would just imitate chrysler. the instructions i got with the hydros from Valair said that the waranty is void if the mount isnt appropriately snug. i it does seem very sturdy now that i have it in there.

[1985-GMC]

Nice build! Not sure how I missed this one

[C20scott]

Dang, i like that yours is removable, and much cleaner. I welded mine to the firewall. I might have to cut it out and start fresh while im in the process of re-doing everything that i am not happy with. Im stuck in wiring land right now.

Here is the start to my relay/distribution box. the goal is to clean up the engine compartment. I may be mounting this inside a toolbox in the bed...

[seth7843]

Just wanted to say thanks for taking the time and doing a build thread that is informative and detailed for those of us looking to do a Cummins swap in the future. Also, props for doing this all outside in the driveway! Keep up the good work.