My 1955 Chevy 3100 build

[ptc]

Thanks Dave for all the tips, it will sure help! Dash looks great too! The smooth dash sure looks lot better, I like the minimalist approach!

Thanks Again...

[II_Slow]

Looks like we are doing many of the same repairs at the same time! I'm just winging it as I go. And it's slow progress but it sure looks better after it's done. I'll keep an eye on your thread for ideas and inspiration. Keep up the good work!

[II_Slow]

I'll pay particular attention to what you do with the rust below the lower hinge pocket. Lots of compound curves and hard-to-get-to areas there. Looks a little tricky. I've still got that, and a rusty brow, to deal with.

[RockinKees]

Nice work on the Dash!!
Great repair on the fender also!!

[55 Chevy Dave]

I managed to warp the driver's side front fender during the first repair, so I had to do it over. This time, I purchased a half fender from LMC. I cut the old repair out along with the warped sheet metal. I also staggered the cut so that I did not end up with a straight line weld again like last time. I thought this may help with the overall strength of the fender and help keep it from warping. I welded in the new repair panel. I took my time and cooled down the metal between spot welds with a soaking wet rag. It did the trick.

I guess that's one way to learn!

[55 Chevy Dave]

Last weekend, I took delivery of my buddy's SBC 350. A few year's back, he had it professionally rebuilt locally and it has been a good performer for him ever since. The dyno sheet says it puts out nearly 450 horsepower with 430 foot pounds of torque. I think it will move the truck along nicely and I must say that it is pretty cool to have my buddy's old engine as the heart of my new truck!

I also took delivery of a new Tremec TKO 5-speed transmission to bolt the engine up to. I also picked up a new bell housing, flywheel and clutch. My truck fund took quite a hit!

[55 Chevy Dave]

Of course, I couldn't wait to introduce the powerplant and trans to it's new home! I bolted everything together and slowly dropped it down and rolled it back. Apparently, I am going to need to order to one of Tremec's optional shifter relocation kits as the default rear position is definitely too far back.

I spent a lot of time looking around the forum this past week for any and all information on the proper placement of the engine. I found quite a few threads on the preferred angle of the engine/trans and it's relation to the rear axle pinion angle, but I didn't find much info on placement front to back and up and down. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated.

[55 Chevy Dave]

I am also concerned about the front springs. I put them in prior to dropping in the engine so that I could establish the final ride height, but when I allowed the weight of the engine and trans to sit on the crossmember, the front end didn't drop at all. The springs did not compress one bit. I put an extra 200 pounds on the front end and I climbed up on top of the frame and jumped on it and the frame hardly moves.

I read somewhere in this forum that the lower a-arms should be close to parallel with the ground and mine aren't even close with the engine weight on the crossmember.

The springs I ordered were intended for a small block Chevy. The first fix that comes to mind is to cut a coil or two out of each of the springs, but I shouldn't need to do that since these springs were ordered as part of the kit with the a-arms and crossmember and meant for this engine.

Not sure what to do with this problem!

[Advanced Design]

Nice resave on the fender Dave.

For positioning the engine, I start the set with crankshaft parallel to the frame and back far enough to make sure there is room for the accessory drive and radiator. Then high enough so the oil pan bottom is about even with the crossmember.

The front propshaft working angle also needs to be within 1/2 degree of the rear propshaft working angle. The front propshaft working angle is the angle of an imaginary line extending from the centerline of the transmission output shaft intersecting an imaginary line extending forward from the centerline of the propshaft. And that angle can't be zero degrees or the u joint will fail.

So, most folks use an angle finder on the end of the trans and set everything 2 or 3 degrees angle down to the floor. Then same for pinion and that gets you close.

Springs - yes, the lower control arm should be parallel to the floor with all the parts and weight back on the truck. And springs will settle after some miles too. So before changing springs, put everything together, add drivers weight and recheck. If it looks close then and maybe just a little high, put some miles on and recheck.

[oldman3]

Chevy Dave, Good info from Doug. Something my son and I have done for years is to use pipe or tubing to make up a homemade adjustable bar to replace spring, while setting engine in place. Here's a couple pics showing what I mean. Another way to set engine angle is to place a level on the carb base on intake, set it to 0 degress, this usually has the trans at about 3 degree down.

[Kim57]

Nice repair on the front fender.
engine look s real good.
Kim

[ptc]

Hey Dave, Everything is looking great you're well on your way. I wouldn't let the spring thing bug you too much. Can always adjust the size later on to fit whatever needs you have. They interchange easy. You also have to remember that you're not building a front "truck" suspension any longer, its more of a car 'weighted' suspension now that you've changed it all to MUST II IFS, with alum rnp steering, removed all the extra steel, etc etc.... The front end weight of your "truck/car" is going to be ALOT less.... and handle MUCHO BETTER!!!

[55 Chevy Dave]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Nice resave on the fender Dave.

For positioning the engine, I start the set with crankshaft parallel to the frame and back far enough to make sure there is room for the accessory drive and radiator. Then high enough so the oil pan bottom is about even with the crossmember.

The front propshaft working angle also needs to be within 1/2 degree of the rear propshaft working angle. The front propshaft working angle is the angle of an imaginary line extending from the centerline of the transmission output shaft intersecting an imaginary line extending forward from the centerline of the propshaft. And that angle can't be zero degrees or the u joint will fail.

So, most folks use an angle finder on the end of the trans and set everything 2 or 3 degrees angle down to the floor. Then same for pinion and that gets you close.

Springs - yes, the lower control arm should be parallel to the floor with all the parts and weight back on the truck. And springs will settle after some miles too. So before changing springs, put everything together, add drivers weight and recheck. If it looks close then and maybe just a little high, put some miles on and recheck.

Originally Posted by ptc

Hey Dave, Everything is looking great you're well on your way. I wouldn't let the spring thing bug you too much. Can always adjust the size later on to fit whatever needs you have. They interchange easy. You also have to remember that you're not building a front "truck" suspension any longer, its more of a car 'weighted' suspension now that you've changed it all to MUST II IFS, with alum rnp steering, removed all the extra steel, etc etc.... The front end weight of your "truck/car" is going to be ALOT less.... and handle MUCHO BETTER!!!

Originally Posted by Kim57

Nice repair on the front fender.
engine look s real good.
Kim

Thanks for the information and the feedback. I really appreciate you taking the time.

[55 Chevy Dave]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Chevy Dave, Good info from Doug. Something my son and I have done for years is to use pipe or tubing to make up a homemade adjustable bar to replace spring, while setting engine in place. Here's a couple pics showing what I mean. Another way to set engine angle is to place a level on the carb base on intake, set it to 0 degress, this usually has the trans at about 3 degree down.

And thank you Oldman3. I took your advice, removed the front coil springs and made some temporary adjustable springs out of some solid round bar stock I had laying around. I installed them and set the lower a-arms parallel with the ground.

[55 Chevy Dave]

I then moved the engine and transmission back into place. I checked all of my measurements and angles and proceeded to weld in the transmission mount.

[55 Chevy Dave]

The engine mounts that I received with the front IFS kit from Classic Performance Products needed to be trimmed up a bit and then I welded them in place.

If anybody sees anything wrong with what I have done, please let me know. It would be a lot easier to fix now!

[55 Chevy Dave]

Tremec's 5-speed transmission comes with 8 different shifter positions. I removed the shifter from the factory default position all the way at the back of the trans. It looks like the position furthest forward will work out fine. It appears to only be back a couple of inches from where the factory shifter came through the floor.

I guess its time to order Tremec's optional kit to relocate the shifter!

[oldman3]

Dave, looks good to me. You might want to put on the exhaust, put in column, and see how clearance will be for shaft to rack and column...Jim

[Advanced Design]

Does look good. Maybe check radiator to accessories clearance too.

[Kim57]

Looks good.
Kim

[RockinKees]

Looks good to me too!

[ptc]

Yea I agree - Headers are going to be #1 to check fit on and if you want to get that full 450 HP dont skimp on primary header tube size just to make them fit. Go big and go full length if you got the clearance. The shortys and the small tube headers will rob you blind of power. There are some new "frame fit" headers out now that stay above the frame rails and you can get them in 1.875" primary tube to 3" collectors I believe.

I may have to build a custom set for my engine build.... they just dont make 2"+ primary tube off-the-shelf headers anymore!

[55 Chevy Dave]

If all goes as planned, this 16 gauge sheet and wheelbarrow will become my new firewall by the end of the long, holiday weekend coming up. If everything goes as planned, I'll have the "after" pictures ready to post next week.

Thanks for the wheelbarrow idea, Kim57!

[Advanced Design]

The wheel barrow mod is an oldie and a good one for needed space. Your engine is in place and the space looks ok. Maybe for distributor room?

If you are going to put in AC, be sure you will still have room for the hvac case under dash.

[Kim57]

Looks like you have clearance now.
Looking forward to pics.
Kim