'72 Cheyenne K10

[Low Elco]

About your brakes- You might want to pull your master and booster apart and see if there's a gap between the rods. The one coming from the booster is adjustable and you want them to juuuuust touch at rest. I bet you have a small gap in there. Just went through this with my new build. Beater 4x4 looks great!

[jimbosprint]

I don't have a lot to show for day 1 of Vintage Air install. I assembled the condenser and drier, but the "well nuts" provided do not fit through the factory holes in the core support. I really don't want to take the grill off just to make two holes slightly bigger.

Speaking of taking off parts to make holes... I thought I wouldn't have to take the inner fender off since the previous owner removed all the factory ac components. It turns out I will just to drill a few holes for installing the firewall plate. All the old rusty bolts for the inner fender came out except one, and it has me defeated for today. Too hot outside to continue.

[1971Stepside]

always has to be one bolt that won't cooperate...

[Ol Blue K20]

I hear that it's hot there. I just watched the noon news. Keep plugging away at it your experience is gonna help me out.....lol..

[NorCalC20LWB]

Jimbo, hate to say it but you're gonna have to take off at least the inner grill anyway. I'm finishing up the VA project now, and there was no way to put those aluminum lines through the core support with all their bends with the inner grill installed. Pretty quick taking it off, 8-10 screws maybe? I just dropped it down, did not remove it completely. The rubber well nuts were bigger than the holes in my core support also, just drilled the holes SLIGHTLY bigger.

Would also be hard to do this without dropping the inner fender, be easy to drill right through it when you make your drain hole later. I left the front vertical bolts installed loosely, no need to take the inner fender off completely unless you want to for some reason. See pic, it's just hanging there by the front bolts.

Also, quick tip, before you bolt in your AC unit in the cab run your wiring harness wires through the grommet in the firewall. It was kind of a PITA to get back behind the box and run the wires with the AC box in the way.

[jimbosprint]

Originally Posted by NorCalC20LWB

Jimbo, hate to say it but you're gonna have to take off at least the inner grill anyway. I'm finishing up the VA project now, and there was no way to put those aluminum lines through the core support with all their bends with the inner grill installed. Pretty quick taking it off, 8-10 screws maybe? I just dropped it down, did not remove it completely. The rubber well nuts were bigger than the holes in my core support also, just drilled the holes SLIGHTLY bigger.

Would also be hard to do this without dropping the inner fender, be easy to drill right through it when you make your drain hole later. I left the front vertical bolts installed loosely, no need to take the inner fender off completely unless you want to for some reason. See pic, it's just hanging there by the front bolts.

Also, quick tip, before you bolt in your AC unit in the cab run your wiring harness wires through the grommet in the firewall. It was kind of a PITA to get back behind the box and run the wires with the AC box in the way.

Thank you for the tips! Totally appreciated!

[jimbosprint]

I got it. It took two pairs of vice grips and a lot of cursing, but I got it. The darn clip on nut behind one bolt was busted.

[jimbosprint]

My engineer friend helped me design a rear bumper in Solidworks. He is going to cut and form it at his work.

[Ol Blue K20]

That bumper looks pretty nice

[jimbosprint]

I finished mounting the firewall plate this morning. The fresh air duct and the kick panel vent are sealed off too.

[jimbosprint]

I found the factory AC vents that were in a crate of parts the previous owner of the truck gave me. A quick wash and they were ready for the Vintage Air duct adapters and installation.

[jimbosprint]

Per the advice from NorCalC20LWB, I accepted my fate and tore the grill and bumper off the truck for access to install the condenser. I also ran the wiring through the firewall before the evaporator, which I assembled this morning.

[Ol Blue K20]

It's looking good, your making it look fairly simple too.

[NorCalC20LWB]

Man, Jimbo, you do move right along, looking good! Good idea to take the whole grill off, couple of extra bolts but then you don't have to deal with the hassle of putting the grill insert screws/plastic nuts back in. Once you get the inner box in it's pretty much smooth sailing from there.

[jimbosprint]

All I had time for today is the condenser hard lines, safety switch, and reassembly of the grill and bumper.

[Ol Blue K20]

The condenser and hard lines look clean. Were they prebent?

[jimbosprint]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

The condenser and hard lines look clean. Were they prebent?

All the hard lines are pre-bent. The AC hose kit they sent is custom length, so I will have to have a shop make those for me. I would have preferred pre-made hoses, but that was not an option from the Pro Performance website where I bought the system.

[NorCalC20LWB]

Originally Posted by jimbosprint

All the hard lines are pre-bent. The AC hose kit they sent is custom length, so I will have to have a shop make those for me. I would have preferred pre-made hoses, but that was not an option from the Pro Performance website where I bought the system.

Your kit did not include pre made hoses? That's different from mine, everything came ready to install like the pic I posted above. I bought mine from MCB in the bay area, who advertises on this site, wonder if the kits vary by vendor?

[jimbosprint]

I went to replace the crank pulley this morning and found an unexpected issue - the harmonic balancer crank bolt is missing. I can feel threads, but the hole was full of mud like it has been missing for a long time. I think I have to fix this.

[NorCalC20LWB]

Jimbo, I just finished my VA install and had it charged, you will like the results, ice cold! If your truck was a non AC cab, do you need this part? It's the bracket to connect the AC lines to the battery box. If you can use let me know and I'll get it in the mail. I didn't need it because mine is an AC cab.

[jimbosprint]

Originally Posted by NorCalC20LWB

Jimbo, I just finished my VA install and had it charged, you will like the results, ice cold! If your truck was a non AC cab, do you need this part? It's the bracket to connect the AC lines to the battery box. If you can use let me know and I'll get it in the mail. I didn't need it because mine is an AC cab.

Mine was an original AC truck and that part is left over from my install too. I found the original hard line bracket that I needed in a bucket of parts that the previous owner gave me. I appreciate the offer.

[jimbosprint]

The evaporator is installed under the dash.

Seriously, why a 5/8" hole for the drain? Nobody has a drill bit that size. It costs almost $20 at Lowe's to buy one. I have a tough time spending that just to drill one hole.

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by jimbosprint

The evaporator is installed under the dash.

Seriously, why a 5/8" hole for the drain? Nobody has a drill bit that size. It costs almost $20 at Lowe's to buy one. I have a tough time spending that just to drill one hole.

Attachment 2038915

1/2 inch drill and dremel would work or a step bit. But too late now......

[jimbosprint]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

1/2 inch drill and dremel would work or a step bit. But too late now......

I bought a $7 step bit at Harbor Freight this morning. Worked great.

[jimbosprint]

Harmonic balancer bolt was just missing. I got a new bolt at the parts store and installed the new pulley without any issues.