71 K20 Idaho Edition

[Dieselwrencher]

It's looking great! I had thoughts of moving my engine cross member forward on the K20 I'm doing right now but I think I'll leave it alone.

[landarts]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

It's looking great! I had thoughts of moving my engine cross member forward on the K20 I'm doing right now but I think I'll leave it alone.

I actually thought of that also but did not want to mess with lengthening the driveshafts on this project. I am sure I will be doing something like that on the crew cab build since it will be the K20 version this spring. If I don't go with that then I will cut out the firewall indentation and add some metal to push it back further to accept the 8.1 Vortec motor I have for the crew cab build. It will take a little creative adjustment to get it the way I want it to fit.

The first item was to remove the driver's side wire loom rail I mounted because it was hitting the firewall. I cut 1.5 inches out of it and redrilled and attached it back together with Allen screws and nuts. When that wrapped up I went over the rust-free core support with some wet paper and Scotchbrite. Then shot a little primer where it was bare metal. Ready for paint in the morning.

[Dieselwrencher]

If you just move the engine ahead on the crew cab build, you will be fine. I have a couple of converted Longhorns I can show you pics of that have big blocks in for reference.

Nice work on the support. I just got my last rocker half done on my cab for my latest cheyenne super 72 K20 last night. Big fun.

[landarts]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

If you just move the engine ahead on the crew cab build, you will be fine. I have a couple of converted Longhorns I can show you pics of that have big blocks in for reference.

Nice work on the support. I just got my last rocker half done on my cab for my latest cheyenne super 72 K20 last night. Big fun.

Ryan that would be great would love to see pictures of motor moved forward and the clearance. Thanks!

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by landarts

Ryan that would be great would love to see pictures of motor moved forward and the clearance. Thanks!

Ok, keep in mind one is a beater.

[landarts]

While I was cleaning up the garage and getting things ready to spray for the core support and a few other items that need the black satin finish, I decided to try the Calyx dressing on the master cylinder. Took out the old toothbrush I used on the exhaust manifolds and dipped it into the little container of Calyx and went to town on it. Very happy with the outcome on the master cylinder and proportioning valve.

Also a few days back I was ordering up a few switches I need for the lights I will be installed on the truck here shortly and ran into these nice rocker switches that light up and will go into the custom switch panel I am making. There are also another two that go with them that provide USB outlets for the driver and one for the passenger. Had to get the Sasquatch light switch.

Spraying will begin on my lunch break from work today and hope to get a few more rounds done after work this evening. Still have a few items to go into the blaster cabinet so those items will follow over the weekend. As the items are painted and dried I will be bolting them on to make room for the next in line.

[Dieselwrencher]

Wow, that MC turned out great! I need to get some of that stuff. Nice switches as well.

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Wow, that MC turned out great! I need to get some of that stuff. Nice switches as well.

X2, where did you find the switches?

[landarts]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

X2, where did you find the switches?

I purchased them on Amazon.
Here is a link to the different switches.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H3S58C7...t_details&th=1

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by landarts

I purchased them on Amazon.
Here is a link to the different switches.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H3S58C7...t_details&th=1

Thank you.

[landarts]

Was able to get a little paint mixed up and sprayed this morning. Went with single-stage Hot Rod Flats from Summit Racing. Really happy with how the sheen came out for under the hood items. It matched really well with the Napa TEC Chassis Black that I used on the frame rails and axle. Used the medium temperature activator with it for 70-80 degree temps. The garage was set a 72 overnight to heat it up for painting.

Next up for painting will be the fender wells, battery tray, window washer holder, hood latch brace, radiator, and anything else that goes under the hood.

Order from JB Customs showed for the twin-stick install. I reached out to him before I ordered and sent several pictures of the current NP205 shifter boss location. I did this taking cue from Jimbosprints excellent build thread where he had to send the shift sticks back a few times to get the angle right. Hopefully, they will fit the first try, if not I will modify myself and get it going. Jon at JB Custom Fabrication was great to deal with, communicated daily, and sent out the order within a few days after ordering with the custom bent shift sticks. Again thanks to Jimbosprints excellent work and documenting his build thread - If you have not read his thread it is a great one. Here is a link to his build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=793642 .

[landarts]

Got the core support painted and installed without any issues. After that took a few days to go down to Arizona to take care of some business and visit relatives. Back on getting items ready for paint to wrap up the front sheet metal. Sanded the passenger wheel well and have that one ready for etch primer and paint. The driver side was a little rougher so I striped it with my Eastwoods SCT contour sander I bought used off of Facebook Marketplace for a great price. Used the 80 grit wheel on it and that took it down pretty fast and with not so much effort.

After stripping the driver's side one down I found some cracks and thin metal toward the bottom left front so I decided to cut it out and replace it. Was a little 2.5 hour detour to make it strong again. Then I knocked down all the welds and added a little filler to smooth it out. Should be done with all front tin and miscellaneous parts by Tuesday and painted, hang it Wednesday afternoon.

[Dieselwrencher]

Looking really nice! Most of all my inner fenders are pretty torn up by rust. Yours look mint. I might have to try that summit paint.

[landarts]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Looking really nice! Most of all my inner fenders are pretty torn up by rust. Yours look mint. I might have to try that summit paint.

Thanks, if you are ever out this way in Idaho I will send you home with a good set of fender wells. I have about 8 sets stashed away that were given to me in a parts truck deal I made a couple of years ago. As far as the Summit Satin Black it does look very good and the price is right. I feel this will be my go-to paint for chassis and underhood items.

[Campbel45]

Just got through the entire thread. What amazing work! Cant wait to see more!

[best view]

Update,to the top

[landarts]

Here are few items that were done a few months ago that I never got around to posting. I had put the project on hold to help take care of an elderly parent that has since passed. The plan was to have this project wrapped up several months ago, but life happens.

I spoke about having a couple of custom K20 / Idaho Edition fender badges made. Well, I did have that done through a company on the internet. They did a great job per my design I provided from an Adobe Illustrator vector file. Where they lacked in the process was the communication was not so good. Anyways here are the badges that will go on the front fenders.

[landarts]

I had also ordered a under dash "Old Air Products" AC kit for the truck. It does get hot here in Idaho and want to be able to enjoy the truck in the summer months and not worrying about the heat. My idea was to do a setup with under dash vents so that if I ever sell the truck the next person could remove AC and re-install the heater box and controls if they are trying to go original route.

So I have always wanted to use a spare glove box for gauges or whatever to mount to bottom of dash console but retain some of the dash designs.

Pict. 1
I grabbed one of the spare glove boxes I have from the stake and start to lay out a few items to see how it might fit or if I would need to shorten the length. I have the two center dash vents to mount on each end, the 3 AC controls switches and four switches for the lights i will be installing on the truck.

Pict. 2
Welded a piece of bar stock to top with an angle to get the display of the items to look right and also for mounting purposes. Then clamped it up there a few times to see if everything would fit properly and allow no issues with shifter. Also put a stock radio delete plate where the heater controls were removed.

Pict. 3
Doing the layout before cutting into the dash part

Pict. 4
Testing a few of the parts to make sure it all fits before prepping for paint

Pict. 5
After wet sanding and a few swipes of glaze the part is primed and ready for some Ochre paint

[landarts]

Here are the AC block-off plates I went with from Ebay. I also purchased a nice little aluminum distribution block to make it all neat and tidy on firewall. Not sure if I will paint the block-offs or just leave it the way it is.

[Ol Blue K20]

Sorry for your loss. The glovebox box door mod looks great.

[best view]

Jim sorry u lost a parent that hurts ,i was thinking about your back ,this is brilliant i miss your posts

[Rickysnickers]

Same here, condolences for the loss of your loved one.

[landarts]

I have 9 days off over Thanksgiving and 17 days off over Christmas vacation. Time to wrap up this project so I can get on to the Crew Cab project I bought about a year ago. Here is a short list of what needs to get done so it can be out of the garage and back on the road. I will probably try to tackle the mechanical items left first so that I can pull it in and out of garage when needed for painting sessions. Here is a picture of how the garage and the project sits at 6:30 am this morning. Need to move a few items and get it turned sideways so I can jump in and get a few items checked off the list.

As I finish the items below, I will change each line item to match the heading color. I will pull the list forward in the rest of the post on this build thread for those who might be following.
Shooting for this to be on the road and driven on New Year's Day, so 45 days to wrap up list.


Mechanical Left
-Install new belts
-Install radiator and hoses
-Install new AC unit
-Make new battery cables and a few 2-gauge ground wires with same materials
-Install old exhaust so I can drive it to get new exhaust or buy builder kit and DIY it
-Drop of spare 205 transfer case to have rebuilt and twin sticks installed


Body Work Left
-Front fenders - wet sanded to 1500 need buffing or repaint
-Finish last 15% body work on hood: prime and paint
-Finish passenger door 25% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish driver's door 40% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish last 25% body work on bed: prime, paint and Raptor bedliner
-Body work cowl: prime and paint
-Paint both front fender wells
-Paint all four new shocks from lift kit to match body
-Body work used tailgate: prime and paint
-Install new grill and lights

Interior items
-Finish painting AC and light switch plate made from glove box, also paint radio delete plate for heater control area
-Install new seat cover
-Install new flooring and sill plates
-Install 3-point seat belts
-Install new gauge bezel, dash pad and other new goodies

[Louisvillekytruck]

Sorry for your loss I love the fender badges

[landarts]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Sorry for your loss. The glovebox box door mod looks great.

Thanks Ol Blue K20.

Originally Posted by best view

Jim sorry u lost a parent that hurts ,i was thinking about your back ,this is brilliant i miss your posts

Stay tuned Kenny more to come! I appreciate the support.

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

Same here, condolences for the loss of your loved one.

Thanks neighbor.

Originally Posted by Louisvillekytruck

Sorry for your loss I love the fender badges

Thanks, I still need to treat them with some black paint. Never done it before so it will be a learning process.
__________________________________________________

Had a 45 minute break in the day from work so I finished moving items around and got the truck spun into position for some work to be done. Next up will be to get a parts table set up and everything laid out so I can see if there is anything I still need to finish. Print out my check-off list and tape it to the windshield, it always feels good when you start checking off the done items. If everything goes smooth should have it running again in the next day or so.

__________________________________________________

Mechanical Left
-Install new belts
-Install radiator and hoses
-Install new AC unit
-Make new battery cables and a few 2-gauge ground wires with same materials
-Install old exhaust so I can drive it to get new exhaust or buy builder kit and DIY it
-Drop of spare 205 transfer case to have rebuilt and twin sticks installed

Body Work Left
-Front fenders - wet sanded to 1500 need buffing or repaint
-Finish last 15% body work on hood: prime and paint
-Finish passenger door 25% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish driver's door 40% of body work: prime and paint
-Finish last 25% body work on bed: prime, paint and Raptor bedliner
-Body work cowl: prime and paint
-Paint both front fender wells
-Paint all four new shocks from lift kit to match body
-Body work used tailgate: prime and paint
-Install new grill and lights

Interior items
-Finish painting AC and light switch plate made from glove box, also paint radio delete plate for heater control area
-Install new seat cover
-Install new flooring and sill plates
-Install 3-point seat belts
-Install new gauge bezel, dash pad and other new goodies