Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window

[Black_Sheep]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Did some searching "power steering high effort" online last night. I wasn't able to find the specific pressure the system should produce but it looks like in the 1000-1500psi range. My LQ4 came out of an Isuzu N series truck and of course my rack is from a Corvette. So I'm wondering if there simply a mismatch of pressure requirements? Also, I read some where there are shins within the pump that lower the pressure. So obviously if that's true we could remove some to gain pressure. But without knowing what pressure it's producing now and why it SHOULD be for the Vette rack, we'd be working blind and potentially over pressurizing the hoses.

You are on the right track Dan. Hydraulic systems need to supply adequate flow and pressure tailored to the specific requirements of whatever it's driving. If you know what year the donor car was you should be able to find pressure specs in the appropriate Corvette service manual. If the pressure is within spec then you need to look at flow. If the pump displacement is undersized or pump rpms are too slow, the system performance will suffer. I'm only asking because you are mixing and matching parts so please don't be offended, are you sure the pump is turning in the right direction? How are the pressure and return lines plumbed? Line size is commonly -6 to and from the rack, the line from the remote reservoir should be the same size or even slightly larger.

[Dan in Pasadena]

^^^ No offense taken^^^

This is ALL stuff that has to be checked and addressed if it's not right. I'm confident it'll be an easy fix....once we figure out what's the problem.

[lower50's]

Truck is looking killer!! Sound great. I love the reupholstered seat in the last pic, I will be cool on a hot day for sure.

[MIKESAD50]

Dan, The Truck is looking Awesome!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Mike!

Exhaust Wrap
I'm gonna do this myself because frankly, I'm just tired of spending so much on labor! AND because I feel "left out" not having done much of the work other than full tear down on this iteration of the truck.

Who's done it? I am wrapping my exhaust AFTER the exhaust manifolds - they will be Jet HOT coated - because the first foot of tubing is directly over my frame-mounted coils. I watched a few videos on it last night and it seems straight forward. Many of the videos suggested wrapping it wet. Apparently makes the wrap tighter(?)

I know to:
- Double the ends over to avoid raveling of the cloth.
- Secure the wrap with tape til done in case you want to redo it.
- Finalize it with stainless metal straps (or pipe clamps).
- Run the engine (if wet) to dry it
- Overlap 1/4 (some suggested 1/2) to maximize heat protection

Any other suggestions? Tricks?

[Black_Sheep]

I did mine a few weeks ago, for a first timer I don't think it turned out too bad. One thing I do regret is starting at the front and working to the rear because it would probably look better with the overlap going the other way. The overlap is about 50%. Also, the thin metal ties are pretty puny, I've been thinking about switching to SS hose clamps on the end.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks for the pic Black Sheep!

I think the ties look very minimal too. Hadn't thought about stainless hose clamps but that's a good idea. The package I have is 50 ft. It will be very tight to keep the roll intact while wrapping so I'm thinking I should roll it out in advance and just cut it into two 25 ft pieces.
I don't need that much coverage but why NOT use it? It'll be cool (literally, ha ha) to wrap all the way to the front of the mufflers.

[Black_Sheep]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Thanks for the pic Black Sheep!

I think the ties look very minimal too. Hadn't thought about stainless hose clamps but that's a good idea. The package I have is 50 ft. It will be very tight to keep the roll intact while wrapping so I'm thinking I should roll it out in advance and just cut it into two 25 ft pieces.
I don't need that much coverage but why NOT use it? It'll be cool (literally, ha ha) to wrap all the way to the front of the mufflers.

I used a 25' kit on each side and it was enough to go from the exhaust manifold almost all the way to the muffler with 2.5" pipes. Next time I put together a Summit order I'll get more so I can wrap the H pipe too. The wrap is easier to handle when it's not rolled up

[Dan in Pasadena]

^^^ Ok, you told me exactly what I need to know.^^^

I'll unroll it, cut to two 25ft pieces and see if it takes me from the exhaust manifolds to the mufflers. It'll be at least close. I'll use SS hose clamps so I can re-position if I need to. Did you do yours wet? I hear it stretches a little bit if you do.

[Black_Sheep]

Put it on dry, pulling and twisting as I went. it seems plenty tight, time will tell

[lower50's]

I did mine, I used the sst tie wraps, I did not wet. Just pull real tight and wear gloves the fiberglass will make your hands itch. It has held up great 8400mi and counting.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks you guys. I think dry would be SO much less mess. I'll try that first using hose clamps. If it doesn't come out good I can always re-wrap. Did you guys use a mask? I don't want to be breathing Fiberglas if it gives off loose fibers.

[Black_Sheep]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Thanks you guys. I think dry would be SO much less mess. I'll try that first using hose clamps. If it doesn't come out good I can always re-wrap. Did you guys use a mask? I don't want to be breathing Fiberglas if it gives off loose fibers.

I did not use PPE when installing the wrap, the thought never occurred to me.

The info for the wrap I got from Summit says:

DEI titanium exhaust wrap with LR technology is constructed from pulverized lava rock, extruded into fibers, and then woven into a tight weave, giving it titanium-like strength and toughness. The improvement in thermal protection helps to reduce underhood temperatures, resulting in cooler air intake for improved performance. And less heat in the engine bay means less chance of heat soak conditions on vital underhood components. Typical glass fiber wrap is rated at handling 1,200 degrees F of maximum direct heat, while DEI's titanium wrap, using LR technology, is capable of handling direct continuous heat up to 1,800 degrees F and radiant heat up to 2,800 degrees F. And because it's pliable, there's no need to wet the wrap when wrapping headers or pipes, as many do in order to make the wrapping process easier to manage and to get a tight wrap. Titanium wrap will not shrink, and because of its material structure, it is more resistant to temperature and vibration breakdown, abrasions, chemical and hot oil spills than glass fiber wrap. Plus, DEI's titanium wrap offers a very cool carbon fiber look as an added feature!

The texture is sort of like a fire hose, kind of rough but it affords a solid grip. Your hands and forearms will get a good workout though, once you start wrapping you have to keep constant tension on it.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Black Sheep.

Mike had already bought Fiberglas wrap and SS ties for me so I'll use it. I'm not wrapping the exhaust manifolds themselves, just the start of the exhaust tubing after it because it goes directly over my coils. Hopefully it'll work fine.

[G&R's57GMC]

So what's happening Dan ?

Are we in delay prison ?

[bobinbc]

Hey Dan any progress pictures of your seat?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Delay prison? Ha, yeah. Sentenced to 3 years so far.

Stopped by upholsterer yesterday to pick up the springs from my bench. They are perfect, freshly sandblasted & powder coated. I’ll put them up for sale here or elsewhere. I figure someone will want them eventually. Other than removing the springs, cutting/fitting the wood & foam no other work has been done because he’s doing work for clients going to the SEMA show next month.

Real life has intruded on my progress on wrapping the exhaust and sanding/finishing the bed wood. And I plan to install my side windows myself...or at least try.

[G&R's57GMC]

Dang I hate when that happens .

Be sure to put a couple of layers of blue tape on the doors to protect from scratches when you install the glass.
I didn't and chipped the paint on my '57 with the vent window runner lower mount taking it out.

Gee you blasted the seat springs and had them powder coated for a possible future sale .
You think like I do , I have a set of wheels I just pulled of my Dart 14x5 4" bolt pattern that I'm going to blast and powder coat for the next guy .

Now get back to the bed wood and Get'er done

[Dan in Pasadena]

Glen,
When I had the seat frame blasted/coated I didn’t know I’d not be using the springs. But now they’re done so someone will get a very nice deal.

Yup, gotta get back to the bed wood. That just takes time...time...time!

PS: Yes on the tape. Been watching YouTube videos and that was suggested. It looks easy but also easy to scratch new paint! CANT. Let that happen.

[G&R's57GMC]

If you are using the vent windows, as you slid the vent assembly into the door it will need to be rotated to get it in .

[Dan in Pasadena]

Yup, I am and that was in the YouTube video.

[G&R's57GMC]

Been a while , anything new happening ?

BTW do you have any close up pic's of your remote mounted coils ?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Hi Glen, thnks for asking.

A whole lot of nothing is what’s new.

List of Procrastination Excuses To Follow:

I was out of town for a long weekend last week and I am cleaning out the main portion of my tiny 18x18 garage (bed wood spread & all sorts of tools spread out) to take a photo of the truck IN the garage for the insurance company. I’m dragging my feet on that.

I need to get it in there and get it up as high as I can on jackstands to wrap the exhaust. It would be so much easier with a lift, but oh well. Then my amateurish attempts at installing the windows myself based on YouTube videos will begin.

[G&R's57GMC]

Any Pic's of the remote coils ?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by G&R's57GMC

Any Pic's of the remote coils ?

Here you go. I had to use the flash so they’d show clearly but it makes the paint kinda look pink. But that was the point of putting them down on the frame- so they’d recede from view. I had to do this because I used the Delmo adapters to put Moon Equipment finned valve covers on my LS.

Also pics of her in the garage finally. Had to move a bunch of truck-related crap out of the way.