Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by sic_F44

i love this build, been following for months! Finally got back on my build because of you. Keep it coming

Cool bud, is it getting cold where you are at, the weather here in Norther California went from 95*F to 55*F in one day, and for us fair weather wimps that is freezing

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by arky78

I've been following your build awhile, lots of great ideas. Keep up the great work. Looking forward to more.

Thanks man, needless to say I am in a bit of a funk right now, but we shall over come!

[Gregski]

Dude, what was in the other box?


... aight then!

[enaberif]

Have fun with those rivets for the old hangars! I used cut off wheels and a grinding pad for the fronts. Then just knocked them through the frame.

Still a ton of work though.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by enaberif

Have fun with those rivets for the old hangars! I used cut off wheels and a grinding pad for the fronts. Then just knocked them through the frame.

Still a ton of work though.

I know, it took me a while just to remove the stock exhaust pipe hangers, they were some serious brackets not like the tack welded junk Midus puts on these days, ha ha

Did you have to remove the side mounted fuel tank from the passenger side to get to that hanger, or can it be done with 16 gallons of fuel strapped to the truck?

[muthstryker]

I drilled out the rivets with a 1/2" step bit on a cordless impact driver. Was faster than grinding and hammering out.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by muthstryker

I drilled out the rivets with a 1/2" step bit on a cordless impact driver. Was faster than grinding and hammering out.

Good tip, never would have considered using an impact driver to drill with, might have to try it.

[enaberif]

Originally Posted by Gregski

I know, it took me a while just to remove the stock exhaust pipe hangers, they were some serious brackets not like the tack welded junk Midus puts on these days, ha ha

Did you have to remove the side mounted fuel tank from the passenger side to get to that hanger, or can it be done with 16 gallons of fuel strapped to the truck?

I have a long bed with I think the 20 gallon tanks. I only removed the rears not the fronts so I have no idea how the fronts will be lol.

[Gregski]

alright so returned the second set of the MCGauphys coil springs to LMC Truck today, the US Post Office wanted $68 bucks to ship them back in the original box, so I said I have a bettter idea lets see if they fit in your large Flat Rate Box, which they did, so that only cost me $17 dollars

[68Timber]

The good news is the monthly truck budget is getting a refund!

[Front Range]

Never heard of MCGauphys coil springs. Are they a crap brand??

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Front Range

Never heard of MCGauphys coil springs. Are they a crap brand??

2" Shorter Coil Springs = 4" Drop ?!

[Gregski]

well what do we have here, Christmas in November?

why its our $6 dollar 4x10 speaker grill complements The eBay, I recon this will do us just fine, it's amazing what you can find On The Line these days, ha ha (movie reference anybody?)

[Gregski]

let me give you some updates, I am still all over the place juggling about 5 different things, hoping to wrap them all up soom

picked up another side mirror today from a local truck shop for $14 bucks this one is an aftermaket product from a company called K Source and model # 1001, its better than the junk yard ones because it needs no drilling of new holes as it has a universal bracket, but I will probably return it, as it is a car mirror and not a truck mirror, they also make a black truck mirror so we may try that

a reminder why we are doing this, simple I want black square mirrors, why not paint the ones I got? cause painting chrome sux

[Gregski]

and here's what the K Source 1001 looks like on the truck, still a bit too small, still the quarter window pillar gets in the way, I was hoping I could slide it forward more with that universal bracket but as you can see above it's all the way forward already,

trial and error baby, trial and error

[enaberif]

Painting chrome is easy. The problem is that you have to sand it VERY VERY well to get the chrome and shinyness gone. Once that happens it'll paint like anything else.

Also anything that high up on the door is going to either block your window or be a pain in the ass to see out. This is why most mirrors were mounted further down the door or behind the vent window like the power windows.

[Gregski]

ok, on to the dash, I must admit I am getting a bit frustrated here, what was supposed to be a cheap fix and take couple hours to prime and paint is taking days, days I tell you

first of all J-B Weld is NOT body filler

this stuff is hard to work with, it runs down like molasis instead of drying where you want / need it too

second sanding it off is a bear

and in my case I am sanding 90% of the product so I might as well stand in the driveway and burn twenty dollar bills

[Gregski]

picked up some 150 and 220 sand paper discs on the way home today from Harbor Freight (about the only thing that store is good for is disposable consumables, ie one time use products)

and went to town with my orbital sander using the 150 grit and haven't even graduated to the 220 cause this stuff is that hard to cut

fellas if I am doing something wrong let me know, cause this is no picnic

[Gregski]

couple hours later this is what we have to show for, a right hand which I can't even feeellllll aaaannnnyyyy mmmoooorrreeee and a horrible looking dash with holes that you can still see

oh and more sanding still to come

Fun Level = 0

[enaberif]

To get JB weld to flatten down you need at least 60 or 80g to break down the bulk then you can use 120 or 220.

You would be doing this either you would have gone with bondo or welding unfortunately its just that jb weld is better than bondo but not as good as welding.

[Jeramy]

i recommend flap disc on grinder to do initial knock down work
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-60...isc-69628.html
i'm half way planned to pull the same thing you are but use jb kwik weld as it sets and cures faster and grinder for clean up then depending on finished product maybe fiberglass or some kind of bedliner,rubberized coating/plasticoat,or recover with thinner padding and vinyl. not really sure lol

[rich weyand]

The trick to JB Weld is not to put any on that you don't want there. You need the surface horizontal, and put on less than you need to fill the hole. It will spread out, flatten, and cure overnight. Now you can build up in very thin layers to get the height up to the top of the hole. In a thin enough layer, it will not flow.

[green72s]

I tried working with JB Weld on my control arms before having them powder coated and it wasn't easy. Hang in there Gregski, you'll get it!

[enaberif]

The problem with any thing like this... bondo, jb weld, fibreglass, or even welding is people have a tendency to overdo it and then wonder why it takes so long to clean up.

A wise man once told me if you weld something and spend more time grinding your a grinder not a welder.

[UKNOWME]

Originally Posted by enaberif

Painting chrome is easy. The problem is that you have to sand it VERY VERY well to get the chrome and shinyness gone. Once that happens it'll paint like anything else.

Yeah stick with the stock mirrors and paint them black