Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step

[Elliot949]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

That's really odd isn't it? Kinda counter intuitive if you ask me. I can see this happening if the tank is completely full and the fluid is up against the gasket. Wonder if it would be worth calling Boyd's to see what they have to say.

I had a chat with them and didn't get any solid answers beyond barometric pressures and some other stuff that was above my head... LOL

[swamp rat]

Humm, temperature change overnight creating pressure and the vapor created from filling? Bummer but at least it’s a short bed!

[Jason7121]

Is the tank vented properly? Just a thought.

[rustytruck50]

Must be something in the Midwestern air Victor, because I'm chasing a mind bender problem on my '72...Good luck!!! Btw...when did you paint your box lime green? Lol...did a real double take in the pic where the box was coming off...

[snipescastle2]

Vic,
Would you like to try a different type of gasket material? I have a type here at work called “Gylon” it’s a blend of Garlock and nylon, has some crush to it, I also have a product called “Gore” sealing tape: it has a self adhesive backing and you wouldn’t have to fully remove the sending unit/pump to install it.

Here’s a picture of the material....
Let me know, I have other kinds as well.
Ben

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Elliot949

I had a chat with them and didn't get any solid answers beyond barometric pressures and some other stuff that was above my head... LOL

At least you got to talk with them, Dan. Their website doesn't list a phone number and requests that you email them with questions... which I did. Still waiting to hear from them but it hasn't been very long. What did you do to get yours to stop leaking?

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Humm, temperature change overnight creating pressure and the vapor created from filling? Bummer but at least it’s a short bed!

I don't think that was the case, Mike. I put 7 gallons in with no problem. The other 5 gallons I put in later was room temperature and the heater runs down there all the time so no big temperature fluctuations. Short bed or not, I'd much rather have had no reason to pull it.

Originally Posted by Jason7121

Is the tank vented properly? Just a thought.

Well, not in the traditional sense. BW sells a rollover vent, but I didn't want one. Prefer the sealed system with the valve in the gas cap. It has a fill neck that came out of a Blazer which has a vent tube for filling purposes, but that's it. When I pulled the lines going to the EFI, there was no fuel in the lines or fittings. So if there was any pressurization, it wan't enough to force the fuel thru the pump and up into the line. Leak was just around the EFI cover gasket.

Originally Posted by rustytruck50

Must be something in the Midwestern air Victor, because I'm chasing a mind bender problem on my '72...Good luck!!! Btw...when did you paint your box lime green? Lol...did a real double take in the pic where the box was coming off...

It's sitting right below a fluorescent light which makes it look lime green. Used to be a guy on the radio called Mr. Leonard that drove a lime green Pinto and wore lime green leisure suits. I ain't that guy.

Originally Posted by snipescastle2

...I also have a product called “Gore” sealing tape: it has a self adhesive backing and you wouldn’t have to fully remove the sending unit/pump to install it.

Something like that might help if re-torquing the fasteners doesn't do the trick. I'd really rather not have to pull the pump and put on a new gasket. BW sells them but I think they're rubber. I did what Brian had suggested and replaced the Phillips screws with socket cap screws so I could actually torque the fasteners. I started at 25 in-lbs, but waiting to hear from the company to see what (if anything) they recommend.

[Elliot949]

We made a thicker gasket and tightened more... fixed my problem...

Let me see if I can find that phone number... it has been about a year and half

[snipescastle2]

Vic,
Did that gore tape fix the leak? Sure hope it did.
Ben

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Elliot949

We made a thicker gasket and tightened more... fixed my problem... Let me see if I can find that phone number... it has been about a year and half

Got a nice reply from the owner today. Basically said you need a vent. I'll have to see what I can come up with. The only unused 1/2" NPT bung is right under one of the cross sills. I may be able to run a piece of aluminum tubing to a remote vent setup. Will have to see what works best.

Originally Posted by snipescastle2

Vic, Did that gore tape fix the leak? Sure hope it did. Ben

Decided to go another direction, Ben. Thanks a million, though. I ended up using a product called Seal-All. It looks similar to model car glue but stays somewhat flexible when it dries. I ran a bead around the outside of the gasket and then covered it with aluminum tape. It's BUGLY, but it should work just fine. Also used it to seal around the fittings and each of the nylon washers.

After all that, I tested the pump and lines. That was a bit of a learning curve. The pump would come on for a second or two and quit. According to the all knowing Google, that's normal. It primes the injectors and then waits for the crank signal before re-energizing the fuel pump relay. So to test the system, I had to disconnect the weather pack connector at the pump and jumper 12VDC to it. But during my research, I also read that low fuel level can cause the pump relay to deactivate. I ended up calling Radley Chevrolet out in VA (who sold me the LS and trans) and talked to a guy named Mike. He said the fuel level signal was not used in the GMPP computer and harness. But the best bit of info he gave me was the phone number for the GMPP help center. WooHoo!! If I have any issues when I fire this puppy up in a day or two, hopefully I'll have someone to steer me in the right direction.

The fuel lines are leak free, the pressure reads 60 psi and holds 50 psi back pressure when you shut off the pump. No injector leaks either. I believe I'm about ready to make some noise. I got the bed back down on the frame and started all the bolts. Need to sort out the vent and get it back down on all fours. Painted the intake tube and installed it and the MAF sensor today also.
Getting closer...

[sduckworth13]

Awesome!!! I’m super excited for you to get it fired up. I had a issue with my fuel tank leaking from my gas lines on the red truck , I switched to a “vented” gas cap and the issue never appeared again. I apparently had bought the wrong year gas cap. Some tanks have the vent lines and some have the cap that is vented.

[Jason7121]

To answer your question on the fuel level sender the ecm doesn't look at that for fuel pump relay control. With key on it primes system and then shuts off until it is cranked over. Looks like your ready to fire that baby up !

[Low Elco]

Here I go away for a few days and all this happens! Great progress! God luck on the fire-up!

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

Awesome!!! I’m super excited for you to get it fired up. I had a issue with my fuel tank leaking from my gas lines on the red truck , I switched to a “vented” gas cap and the issue never appeared again. I apparently had bought the wrong year gas cap. Some tanks have the vent lines and some have the cap that is vented.

Turns out, mine had neither... but it does now.

Originally Posted by Jason7121

To answer your question on the fuel level sender the ecm doesn't look at that for fuel pump relay control. With key on it primes system and then shuts off until it is cranked over. Looks like your ready to fire that baby up !

Installing a newfangled LS engine has been quite the education for me, Jason, with more schooling on the way I reckon.

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Here I go away for a few days and all this happens! Great progress! Good luck on the fire-up!

Thanks Chip... video below.

Crusty fired up for the first time today. Everything went pretty well all things considered. I have some issues to address but that's to be expected. The temp probe that triggers the electric cooling fans is bad, but Derale is sending out a new one. Neither the tachometer nor the speedometer work, will have to get some tips from Classic Instruments tomorrow. And for some reason the check engine light on the dash is flickering when the engine is running. The MIL light in the relay box doesn't seem to doing that, but it's hard to tell because it's a lot smaller light. HF has a sale on a couple of their Zurich scan tools. May be time to invest in one.

Crusty's first start

[cornerstone]

What a GREAT feeling for you!... and all of us who have been watching and waiting for this! Congratulations sir!!!

[Xeen]

It's Alive!
I bet you are just itching to go for your first drive.
For your next video can we go with you on a drive?

[Low Elco]

WOOOOO HOOOOO! Go Vic Go! Congratulations!

[sduckworth13]

Awesome Job Vic!!

[Jason7121]

Good work Vic!

[rustytruck50]

Cool!!! Sounds great!!!

[knomadd]

Sounds great! Hopefully your issues are minor and easy to fix.

[Ol Blue K20]

Sounds great Vic.....

[builtbyKane]

What a milestone!!!

[Xeen]

I can't be the only one thinking this, when do we get to see the hood?
I've been dying to see it in paint.

[Vic1947]

Thanks, guys, for hanging in there with me. It's been a lot longer slog than I imagined. I know you understand how relieved I was that the engine actually fired up on the first try. It's a big step forward for a LS newbie. Certainly not as ambitious as some of you who've transplanted donor engines and had to jump thru even more hoops to make it all work, but still a big moment.

I spent a half hour on the phone yesterday with a GMPP tech and he was very helpful, although at the end of the call I still didn't really understand the difference between the VSS +/- and speedout wires. My BIL, Rick, and I had a long conversation about pull up - pull down resistors and after the call, I stumbled across a line in the Classic Instruments manual that stated the tachometer signal needs at least an 8V reference level and to use a 1K ohm resistor if the input wire is coming from a PCM/ECU. I only had about a dozen loose resistors in my electronics box, but luck was with me and I had one that was exactly 1K. After connecting it between switched 12DC and the signal post, I have a working tach.

Now it's on to the speedo. The GM tech seemed to think that having the NAV system and the cruise control piggybacked off the same wire going to the digital interface box for the speedo might be attenuating the signal. So today I'll patch a wire directly from the GMPP harness to the speedo box to delete the other two sinks temporarily. If that doesn't work, I'll be on the phone to Classic Instruments on Monday.

I still have some work to do in the engine compartment, so it will be a little bit before I get the hood on. It's been leaning up against the back of the shop gathering dust since I brought it home from paint.

[Xeen]

Cobbling together a patchwork of components from several different manufactures can be tricky and time consuming even if you have experience and for the guys that don't do this kind of stuff all the time it is a daunting challenge but you are smart and determined and you will get through it, hell you already solved one tricky problem and you just started working on it, you will have it working properly before you know it.