Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window

[rapid49]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Ok, so apparently every job I do (myself) on my truck is required to be a PAIN IN THE ASS! Lol....or maybe I’m just a lousy mechanic

Got my seatbelts all installed except the passenger side shoulder mount. Painter left some bondo (I guess) in the threads. I used a thread chaser to clean them and must have cross-threaded them. I cleaned the driver side similarly and it worked like a charm. Anyway, I boogered them up and I’m guessing the only fix now is to step up to the next size bolt with a blind hole tap. If anyone has another suggestion I’m all ears.

I would do a heli coil insert to repair the threads , that way I could use the original bolt.

[ChuckDriver]

x2 on the Heli coil.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by rapid49

I would do a heli coil insert to repair the threads , that way I could use the original bolt.

Ok, you guys talked me into it. Just ordered a heli coil installation kit from Amazon! Fingers crossed. When the helicoil fails and I bounce my face off the steering wheel I’ll blame it on you! Ha ha ha.

[ChuckDriver]

Lot's of info on You Tube!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-uxtuE1xKM

[Dan in Pasadena]

Black Sheep - Yours looks EXACTLY like I’d like mine to come out. Very classy sheen.

I don’t mind doing however many coats necessary to get the look I want. Yours is satin or semi-gloss, I assume? What brand varnish or polyurethane?

What grit sandpaper and was it wet sanding? I remembered someone had posted about sanding every other coat, not every coat - good tip, thanks! Sorry for so many questions. Same number of coats top and bottom? Any/all advice really appreciated.

[G&R's57GMC]

Ouch

[dsraven]

well, the wood looks awesome anyway. sorry to hear about the threads. like you say, bigger bolt hole if you have enough meat in the nut back there for a larger bolt.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks JJ. I’ve never installed one before. Searching online makes it look pretty easy. Except this is a blind hole. So I don’t know if the installation tool provided with them will work alright? If not, what to do? Get a same sized tap made for a blind hole? Or is it a special tap of some kind?

[Black_Sheep]

Dan I put 5 or 6 coats on the bottom of the boards, the goal was strictly to seal out moisture. Topside the goal was to level the surface, that's where the sanding comes in. I wet sanded with a hard block between coats with 320 or 400, sorry I don't remember exactly what grit. For the finish I originally started with gloss Minwax Helmsman Spar but changed my mind and did the last few coats with the satin finish. The nice amber hue is strictly from the varnish, the wood is unstained oak.

I felt the gloss was too shiny

[Flysocal]

Try a tap of the same size before the helicoil. Looks like enough thread left on the back end. If not enough meat go with the helicoil. Lookin good Dan!

[Flysocal]

I’ve got a set of chasers and I don’t use them anymore. Like a dull knife they make a mess of threads. I now use taps but carefully. Much better!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Flysocal

I’ve got a set of chasers and I don’t use them anymore. Like a dull knife they make a mess of threads. I now use taps but carefully. Much better!

NOW you tell me! I thought I was doing a great job because I bought a set of chasers before starting reassembly and not just using a bolt!. Oh well.

[ptc]

Should always just use taps not chasers.... A tap may clean that up for you enough - just use a "dead end" tap... it has a flat bottom instead of a pointed one and will thread to the bottom of the hole.

If your bolt doesnt wiggle or pull out when you get it in there it should be safe enough to keep your belt planted

[Dan in Pasadena]

^^^ I was always told the exact opposite. DON’T use a tap to clean threads, use a thread chaser - which is why I bought a set. I ordered a helicoil installation set from Amazon last night. I guess now I’ll be looking for a bottoming tap.

Black Sheep, I can already tell the full gloss will be a little too shiny for my taste. I’ll use up my quart and switch to satin like you did later. Good idea on 4-5 coats on the underside. Seems as though that should be plenty.

[lower50's]

You could always make your own chaser. Just file or grind a grove lengthwise into a bolt the right size.

[ptc]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

^^^ I was always told the exact opposite. DON’T use a tap to clean threads, use a thread chaser - which is why I bought a set. I ordered a helicoil installation set from Amazon last night. I guess now I’ll be looking for a bottoming tap.

Yeah well I guess we learn ---(not from the internet! hahahaha) ---- Worked in a machine shop for 4 years building plastic injection molds, presses and clip and die punches. everything we did was with taps and dies and never used a chaser in my entire career there with them guys. I was a kid back then and learned the best of knowledge from the "old guys", my mind was very malleable back then... Now that I KNOW IT ALL (NOT!) not so much

[Dan in Pasadena]

Well, I’m back home. So work can start again on my ‘55.

Took a whirlwind, 24 hr, 500 mi round trip to my step son’s house to clean our 5th wheel trailer so it could be towed back to L.A. by a pick up service. Why? For those who havent followed this thread, my purchased-new, happy-birthday-to-me ‘08 Chevy crew 3500 dually LTZ Silverado burnt to the ground a year ago and I never installed a hitch in my replacement truck. It STILL kills me that rats caused it - nest materials around the turbo charger piping after a 2 week vacation and I didnt open the hood before it was driven!

Anyway, the helicoil installation kit arrived while I was gone but now I think I’m gonna go looking for a 7/16”-20 bottoming tap - is that the correct name?

EDIT Saturday: After the long delay the 1st coat went on the bottom sides today. Good thing it had extra long to dry as there were some minor drips. They’d hardened so I razor bladed them off, a light sand and you’ll (I’ll!) never be able to tell.

[Dan in Pasadena]

So, this is starting to happen

It’s happening on both top & bottom, but more on bottom. NO, I did not shake the can. Light stirring only.

It did not happen on first coat, only second. So I assume it’s some kind of reaction to the prior coat. I allowed 24hrs+ drying time as per the label. Once I finished applying, I cleaned the brush - takes 5 minutes. I go back and see bubbles. I very lightly rebrush to remove them and re-wash the brush. I come back several hours later and these few bubbles are back!

I’ll wet sand probably with 400 grit tomorrow and the circles left behind will go away, but it still bugs me. Ideas?

[dsraven]

looks like the coats applied have not dried yet and are off gassing still. more time between coats I guess.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by dsraven

looks like the coats applied have not dried yet and are off gassing still. more time between coats I guess.

Maybe. Label says 24hrs between coats but it’s been cold for SoCal before yesterday and today. About 60-61 degrees when I applied the varnish. I’ve been recording my application times and temps.

A few years ago I used Minwax water based polyurethane on some exterior wood that gets no sun. It has held up remarkably good. But I didn’t even consider using that for my bedwood. Maybe I should have!

[dsraven]

the paint guy I dealt with for my issue with endura paint waay back said more coats equals more dry time between coats. temp, humidity and dry time all work together. over a wood surface the moisture content of the wood is also a factor. some paints are also force dryable. the area you have them sitting in is also a factor. if the area is small it stands to reason that the area would tend to have the humidity rise quicker, if not vented, because there is moisture coming out if the paint. so the dry time would go up again. my advice, let it dry well so not soft to touch, then quickly scuff and recoat. varnish also doesn't usually get hardener like an automotive paint so it relies on ambient conditions to dry. try some heat and a fan possibly?
not an expert, just my opinion.

[Dan in Pasadena]

^^^ I think you’re right. I’m gonna leave a fan on above it tonight to see if the air movement helps. I’m sure I’ll get a little more “crap” in the finish but since I’m sanding every coat, it should be ok.

On the subject of sanding: I’m now wet block sanding with 320 after 2 coats. It doesn’t quite make it flat but I’m afraid to sand further and risk cutting through to the wood. I’ll try for total flatness after the 3rd coat. Opinions?

[dsraven]

try thinning so the lighter ends flash off faster and the whole thing drys quicker? more chance of a run though. lighter coats?

[Dan in Pasadena]

I tried to make my coats light as it was.

One of my (now ex) employees was a master cabinet maker years ago before he nearly cut his hand off!! and changed professions. He suggested I put ONE drop of dish soap onto the sanding block as I start blocking. Works like a charm. The block loaded up a little but I brushed it off easily and kept sanding. I didn’t QUITE get to totally flat across the boards but almost. I will for sure after the 3rd coat

[Nut Case]

You may already know this, oak is a open grain wood. To get a total shine you will need to do lots of coats.

I have found for exterior wood that "Spar Varnish" last longer, living in Idaho at about 5000 feet above sea level, with approximately 50-60% humidity and temperature going to highs of 100 degrees in the hot summer to -25 below in the winter, that the spare varnish stands up to the weather several years longer than any other clear finish on oak.

Your truck is looking great.

Keep on keepin on

NC