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Old 03-05-2021, 10:43 PM   #2376
gringoloco
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Originally Posted by smbrouss70 View Post
The picture is dark, we can't see anything bad. Besides, I know a guy.
I assure you, it looks like butt. Oh well for now.

In other news, as if by some glorious accident, what was supposed to be a primer coat on the tubs actually looks pretty good, maybe.

I’m not sure exactly how I feel about it, but I’m pretty sure I don’t hate it. In fact, I think I might kinda like it. Plan was to paint them blue, but for now they’re gonna stay like this. For now. I maintain the right to change my mind on this at any moment
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Old 03-05-2021, 11:41 PM   #2377
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Originally Posted by gringoloco View Post
I assure you, it looks like butt. Oh well for now.

In other news, as if by some glorious accident, what was supposed to be a primer coat on the tubs actually looks pretty good, maybe.

I’m not sure exactly how I feel about it, but I’m pretty sure I don’t hate it. In fact, I think I might kinda like it. Plan was to paint them blue, but for now they’re gonna stay like this. For now. I maintain the right to change my mind on this at any moment
My plan has always been to paint mine black & leave them that way.
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Old 03-06-2021, 08:38 AM   #2378
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

It looks clean.
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Old 03-07-2021, 07:07 PM   #2379
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Glove box is back in, and along with it mounted the ECM and handheld. What this really means is that all of the under dash ac stuff is back in place and working. Just needs plumbed under hood and charged and the cold air will be blowin’ again. Forgot how much ‘fun’ it is laying on your back on the floorboard plumbing ducting, wiring, and cables...
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Old 03-07-2021, 07:08 PM   #2380
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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My plan has always been to paint mine black & leave them that way.
How are you always two steps ahead of me Scoti?
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It looks clean.
Thanks! It’s growing on me
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Old 03-10-2021, 11:39 PM   #2381
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

No big news, but here’s a pic of the bed with all of the bolts installed and snugged down. If I had more time, I might do some things differently, but I don’t, so here it is:
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Old 03-11-2021, 12:26 AM   #2382
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

What would do differently just out of curiosity. Where I'm sitting it looks like you nailed it out of the park! Just a phenomenal job, it looks so clean!
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Old 03-11-2021, 09:50 AM   #2383
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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What would do differently just out of curiosity. Where I'm sitting it looks like you nailed it out of the park! Just a phenomenal job, it looks so clean!
Thanks Kyle. I do like it and think it looks pretty good, but the attention to detail is not to the level I typically prefer. Given more time, I would either 1) cut my own boards for the outside edges or 2) use a flange to bolt through at the bedsides. There is an unsightly (and uneven) gap where the wood meets the bedsides. I also would paint the tubs and rear sill blue for a more ‘factory’ look, just personal preference. I also can’t shake the idea of a clean, painted (or color matched bedliner) metal floor. This will do for now, though. I need to move on to getting the front tubs installed...
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Old 03-11-2021, 10:12 AM   #2384
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Originally Posted by gringoloco View Post
Thanks Kyle. I do like it and think it looks pretty good, but the attention to detail is not to the level I typically prefer. Given more time, I would either 1) cut my own boards for the outside edges or 2) use a flange to bolt through at the bedsides. There is an unsightly (and uneven) gap where the wood meets the bedsides. I also would paint the tubs and rear sill blue for a more ‘factory’ look, just personal preference. I also can’t shake the idea of a clean, painted (or color matched bedliner) metal floor. This will do for now, though. I need to move on to getting the front tubs installed...
Devils advocate.... The textured Line-X floor for my dually is always dirty & there is no wiping it down. And because of the 'rake' in the chassis, when you do clean it you're having to push it to the tailgate area because the drain holes @ the front panel end of the floor don't allow draining fast enough for the volume of water (dirty water).
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

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Old 03-11-2021, 11:35 AM   #2385
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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I need to move on to getting the front tubs installed...
Get those installed! Can't wait to see them all done.
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Old 03-12-2021, 09:32 AM   #2386
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by gringoloco View Post
Thanks Kyle. I do like it and think it looks pretty good, but the attention to detail is not to the level I typically prefer. Given more time, I would either 1) cut my own boards for the outside edges or 2) use a flange to bolt through at the bedsides. There is an unsightly (and uneven) gap where the wood meets the bedsides. I also would paint the tubs and rear sill blue for a more ‘factory’ look, just personal preference. I also can’t shake the idea of a clean, painted (or color matched bedliner) metal floor. This will do for now, though. I need to move on to getting the front tubs installed...
The bed liner in my truck always looks dirty. You will probably hate it you do it.
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Old 03-12-2021, 03:25 PM   #2387
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Get those installed! Can't wait to see them all done.
Up next! ...along with a million other things around the house...
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Devils advocate.... The textured Line-X floor for my dually is always dirty & there is no wiping it down. And because of the 'rake' in the chassis, when you do clean it you're having to push it to the tailgate area because the drain holes @ the front panel end of the floor don't allow draining fast enough for the volume of water (dirty water).
Quote:
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The bed liner in my truck always looks dirty. You will probably hate it you do it.
Valid points, both. Is that for black only? I’ve never dealt with color matched liner.
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Old 03-13-2021, 02:02 AM   #2388
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Mine is Black. I considered Red for a nano-second. But if the RED faded.... It might appear pink & that is a no-go.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 03-19-2021, 05:34 PM   #2389
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Wow, Chris! I've been gone for 3 months and you've done a lot. I love your build. I'm fighting home deficiencies from winter storm that us Houstonian's aren't prepared for, and a drivetrain update on my GTO, otherwise I'd be doing similar things, like the latches and door rebuilds...

Your bed floor turned out great! My plan is what you still think you want to do... metal floor with bedliner, which I currently have. The liner the PO used was a cheap one, so it's flaking, and there's some rust that needs to be tackled before I do anything, but I've considered paint matched, since everyone is right, a black liner is always dirty, unless it's brand new. Even my new GMC, which came with one from the factory, and now has a tonneau cover, is still filthy. Not sure if a body colored liner would be any different, just that it wouldn't look as dirty as quickly... Just like your current color vs a black truck.

Oh, and the color fading, like Scoti said... a non-color matched liner would look funny regardless of the color (light blue instead of medium blue?). But, pink would be awful...
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Old 03-21-2021, 11:37 PM   #2390
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI View Post
Mine is Black. I considered Red for a nano-second. But if the RED faded.... It might appear pink & that is a no-go.
Quote:
Originally Posted by knomadd View Post
Wow, Chris! I've been gone for 3 months and you've done a lot. I love your build. I'm fighting home deficiencies from winter storm that us Houstonian's aren't prepared for, and a drivetrain update on my GTO, otherwise I'd be doing similar things, like the latches and door rebuilds...

Your bed floor turned out great! My plan is what you still think you want to do... metal floor with bedliner, which I currently have. The liner the PO used was a cheap one, so it's flaking, and there's some rust that needs to be tackled before I do anything, but I've considered paint matched, since everyone is right, a black liner is always dirty, unless it's brand new. Even my new GMC, which came with one from the factory, and now has a tonneau cover, is still filthy. Not sure if a body colored liner would be any different, just that it wouldn't look as dirty as quickly... Just like your current color vs a black truck.

Oh, and the color fading, like Scoti said... a non-color matched liner would look funny regardless of the color (light blue instead of medium blue?). But, pink would be awful...
Hm, I’ll have to do some more research before committing. Appreciate the positive comments.

Made some progress on the front tubs: got the passenger side bolted in and fitting nicely. Also started the process of modifying the drivers side and after removing and reinstalling the fender and inner at least 37,000 times, I have finally got it fitting the way it’s supposed to and have the panel tacked together using my new toy. Finish weld, grind, and hopefully body work tomorrow, then paint sometime in the future?...

The new Hobart welder was long overdue. I don’t know how I’ve survived this long without it. When I welded the passenger side fender the Eastwood was being weird and blowing through. When I did the exhaust it would not penetrate and just piled up. When I welded the bed floor mounts it made embarrassing looking not so sticky boogers. Last straw. There was no way I was attempting to mod this fender with that “welder” after how it had been acting. The difference between the Hobart and the Eastwood junk is astounding. Smooth as butter, making all the right bacon noises and nice little puddles...
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Old 03-22-2021, 12:18 AM   #2391
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Very Nice!
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Old 03-22-2021, 07:50 AM   #2392
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Old 03-22-2021, 09:05 AM   #2393
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

That looks nice. I hear you on the welder thing. Sometimes I hate mine. But then again it could be the Operator.
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Old 03-22-2021, 10:19 AM   #2394
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Very Nice!
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That looks nice. I hear you on the welder thing. Sometimes I hate mine. But then again it could be the Operator.
Thanks all, looking forward to wrapping this up. I felt the same way, like, did I forget how to weld? Are the settings right? Am I out of gas? Polarity reversed? Power feed problems? Nope, turns out it was a junk-a$$ welding machine. Not sure what happened, it seemed ok at first, but got worse with time. So happy to find out it wasn’t completely my fault and that I can still lay a decent bead.
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Old 03-22-2021, 06:13 PM   #2395
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Thanks all, looking forward to wrapping this up. I felt the same way, like, did I forget how to weld? Are the settings right? Am I out of gas? Polarity reversed? Power feed problems? Nope, turns out it was a junk-a$$ welding machine. Not sure what happened, it seemed ok at first, but got worse with time. So happy to find out it wasn’t completely my fault and that I can still lay a decent bead.
Haha I think I need a new welder.
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Old 03-22-2021, 06:13 PM   #2396
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Love the inner fenders!
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Old 03-22-2021, 08:49 PM   #2397
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Haha I think I need a new welder.
Do it. Don’t think, don’t look back, just do. The last ten years of my life would have been soooooo much better if I’d just bought the good welder to start with. Not joking. Do it.
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Love the inner fenders!
Me too! They are a ton of work, but the look is unbeatable
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Old 03-22-2021, 08:53 PM   #2398
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Tack, tack, tack. Grind, grind, grind. Repeat. It’s a process...

PSA: Harbor freight $2.99 moving blankets are highly flammable
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Old 03-24-2021, 08:33 AM   #2399
gringoloco
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

After MUCH swearing, it is bolted back together. Not perfect, but it’ll do for now...
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
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Old 03-24-2021, 08:42 AM   #2400
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

That looks very nice.
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