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#2451 | |
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Location: Glendora, CA
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
Quote:
A few years ago I used Minwax water based polyurethane on some exterior wood that gets no sun. It has held up remarkably good. But I didn’t even consider using that for my bedwood. Maybe I should have!
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'55 Big Window Shortbed, Drive-It-&-Work-On-It slid down the "slippery slope" to a Frame-Off Rodstoration! LQ4/4l85e/C4 IFS/Mustang 8.8 rearend w/3.73's Dan's '55 Big Window "Build" - Well, Kinda! |
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#2452 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: calgary alberta
Posts: 8,030
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
the paint guy I dealt with for my issue with endura paint waay back said more coats equals more dry time between coats. temp, humidity and dry time all work together. over a wood surface the moisture content of the wood is also a factor. some paints are also force dryable. the area you have them sitting in is also a factor. if the area is small it stands to reason that the area would tend to have the humidity rise quicker, if not vented, because there is moisture coming out if the paint. so the dry time would go up again. my advice, let it dry well so not soft to touch, then quickly scuff and recoat. varnish also doesn't usually get hardener like an automotive paint so it relies on ambient conditions to dry. try some heat and a fan possibly?
not an expert, just my opinion. |
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#2453 |
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Location: Glendora, CA
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
^^^ I think you’re right. I’m gonna leave a fan on above it tonight to see if the air movement helps. I’m sure I’ll get a little more “crap” in the finish but since I’m sanding every coat, it should be ok.
On the subject of sanding: I’m now wet block sanding with 320 after 2 coats. It doesn’t quite make it flat but I’m afraid to sand further and risk cutting through to the wood. I’ll try for total flatness after the 3rd coat. Opinions?
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'55 Big Window Shortbed, Drive-It-&-Work-On-It slid down the "slippery slope" to a Frame-Off Rodstoration! LQ4/4l85e/C4 IFS/Mustang 8.8 rearend w/3.73's Dan's '55 Big Window "Build" - Well, Kinda! |
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#2454 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: calgary alberta
Posts: 8,030
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
try thinning so the lighter ends flash off faster and the whole thing drys quicker? more chance of a run though. lighter coats?
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#2455 |
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
I tried to make my coats light as it was.
One of my (now ex) employees was a master cabinet maker years ago before he nearly cut his hand off!! and changed professions. He suggested I put ONE drop of dish soap onto the sanding block as I start blocking. Works like a charm. The block loaded up a little but I brushed it off easily and kept sanding. I didn’t QUITE get to totally flat across the boards but almost. I will for sure after the 3rd coat
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'55 Big Window Shortbed, Drive-It-&-Work-On-It slid down the "slippery slope" to a Frame-Off Rodstoration! LQ4/4l85e/C4 IFS/Mustang 8.8 rearend w/3.73's Dan's '55 Big Window "Build" - Well, Kinda! |
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#2456 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Clear and Still Idaho
Posts: 509
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
You may already know this, oak is a open grain wood. To get a total shine you will need to do lots of coats.
I have found for exterior wood that "Spar Varnish" last longer, living in Idaho at about 5000 feet above sea level, with approximately 50-60% humidity and temperature going to highs of 100 degrees in the hot summer to -25 below in the winter, that the spare varnish stands up to the weather several years longer than any other clear finish on oak. Your truck is looking great. Keep on keepin on NC
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#2457 |
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Show Low, Arizona
Posts: 771
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
Dan-
Finishing my bed wood is still in front of me, so reading this thread with interest on how to get a nice finish on the boards. Has anyone tried a grain-filler on their boards, especially on oak? Here's a excerpt from Rockler's site on filling wood grain- "Ever wonder how expert wood finishers get the mirror-like finish you find on examples of fine furniture? It isn't by hastily slapping on a coat or two of standard-issue polyurethane varnish. There are a number of steps involved, beginning with the way the piece is originally constructed on through several coats of clear finish and final hand-rubbing. In between, there's the all important step of filling the wood grain pores to produce the perfectly flat surface that gives the final clear finish depth and a glass-smooth shine. Crystalac Clear Waterborne Wood Grain Filler makes the process about as easy as it can be. And in case you've never used wood grain filler, here are a few filler facts to help you see why." "Wood grain filler is used strictly to fill wood grain pores and should not be confused with "wood putty". Wood putty (or wood filler) is a much thicker mixture, and is used to fill larger cracks and voids in the wood. Grain filler is a binder mixed with a filler material, such as silica, "micro balloons", clay, or calcium carbonate to for a thin paste. Most grain fillers are roughly the viscosity of pancake batter, making them easy to work into the grain of the wood, but still thick enough to span and fill the open pores of the grain" http://www.rockler.com/how-to/using-wood-grain-filler/ Very curious if anyone's used this and how it worked. Here's another DIY instruction on using grain fillers http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/wo...-pore-fillers/ I wonder if you could apply a coat or two of sealer, then the grain filler, then stain the grain filler a contrast color and top coat it for a little more contrast effect. |
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#2458 | |
Senior Member
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Location: Glendora, CA
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
Quote:
Once the sanding with 320 shows a truly flat surface all across the boards I’ll do another coat or two and finish with a 1500 grit sand and machine polish as the final finish. As for grain filler, I’ve read about it. It comes out like a tan, thin putty. Since I was not staining my wood other than natural I decided not to try it but it might work fine. But if it DOESNT? Then what do you do with $400 of oak you don’t like?! EDIT: Saturday 2/3/18: After much wet block sanding I applied a 3rd coat switching to Satin finish. The sanding cut through the varnish slightly on a couple edges but it’s invisible after the varnish went back on.
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'55 Big Window Shortbed, Drive-It-&-Work-On-It slid down the "slippery slope" to a Frame-Off Rodstoration! LQ4/4l85e/C4 IFS/Mustang 8.8 rearend w/3.73's Dan's '55 Big Window "Build" - Well, Kinda! Last edited by Dan in Pasadena; 02-03-2018 at 06:18 PM. |
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#2459 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Morada, CA --- (Near Lodi)
Posts: 1,443
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
Quote:
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My Build: 57 Chevy Pro-Street |
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#2460 |
Senior Member
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Location: Glendora, CA
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
After a several day delay I put the 3rd coat (and likely the last) of varnish on the bottom of my bedwood boards today. 3 coats OUGHT to seal them well enough from the bottom since they will never be exposed to direct sunlight.
I have found that the label suggestion to wait 24 hrs to dry is too little. Even at 75-85 degrees lately you need to wait more like 48 hrs to sand and not load up the paper easily...and then then it wants to load. EDIT: Nothing new to report today because I was drafted into helping my nephew & brother-in-law build a retaining wall...or my DD truck was. And of course this happened the day AFTER I washed and waxed her. Poor beauty had to actually work. But she’s a tough beauty.
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'55 Big Window Shortbed, Drive-It-&-Work-On-It slid down the "slippery slope" to a Frame-Off Rodstoration! LQ4/4l85e/C4 IFS/Mustang 8.8 rearend w/3.73's Dan's '55 Big Window "Build" - Well, Kinda! Last edited by Dan in Pasadena; 02-10-2018 at 10:04 PM. |
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#2461 |
Senior Member
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
I finally re-tapped the shoulder belt mount hole successfully and mounted the belt. This allowed me to install the seat for the first time since it was done.
The 5h coat of varnish went on and that seems to be enough. I wet sanded with 1500 grit to remove dust nibs and started machine polishing. EDIT: Sorry about the dumb pictures rotating.
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'55 Big Window Shortbed, Drive-It-&-Work-On-It slid down the "slippery slope" to a Frame-Off Rodstoration! LQ4/4l85e/C4 IFS/Mustang 8.8 rearend w/3.73's Dan's '55 Big Window "Build" - Well, Kinda! Last edited by Dan in Pasadena; 02-19-2018 at 12:26 AM. |
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#2462 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 504
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
Looking good Dan!
Cheers, Jim |
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#2463 |
A320 Pilot/USAF Retired
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,622
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
Seat looks great in there Dan!
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JJ My 1957 build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=334552 http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22037 Instagram - Chuckdriver57 |
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#2464 |
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Location: Glendora, CA
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
Thanks so much JJ for the kind words and for rotating the image!
I like it but it’s almost too plain. Maybe I should have requested a red line where the pleats end on both the seat and the back....but oh well. It’s done now.
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'55 Big Window Shortbed, Drive-It-&-Work-On-It slid down the "slippery slope" to a Frame-Off Rodstoration! LQ4/4l85e/C4 IFS/Mustang 8.8 rearend w/3.73's Dan's '55 Big Window "Build" - Well, Kinda! |
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#2465 |
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 549
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
Nice work Dan, seat looks awesome! Plain is nice!!
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RIP John (Lambis), my beloved Father & best Friend. My Build 56 GMC http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=486721 |
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#2466 |
Senior Member
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
Thanks Red!
To the board in general: Progress is slow now for a variety of reasons. Mostly because its home and I have to do all the work myself! Lol. But also a very elderly relative took a fall and was hospitalized a couple weeks, visits, etc. We bought a post-retirement RV and that has also been put on the back burner when we thought we would be prepping it for a month long trip. Basically, life got in the way. Bought some stainless bolts today for final install the seat tomorrow. I have to figure out how to install new rollers on the window regulators, then I have to do side window installation while I wait for the rear-most cross sill to be painted - THEN I can start bed assembly!
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'55 Big Window Shortbed, Drive-It-&-Work-On-It slid down the "slippery slope" to a Frame-Off Rodstoration! LQ4/4l85e/C4 IFS/Mustang 8.8 rearend w/3.73's Dan's '55 Big Window "Build" - Well, Kinda! |
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#2467 |
Senior Member
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Location: West Plains, Missouri
Posts: 7,557
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
Dan, that life thing does seem to get it the way alot (ask me how I know, ha ha). Seat looks good, you can always add a little color to the door panels, if you think it needs it...Jim
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my build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=459839 Jimbo's long bed step build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...t=464626<br /> |
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#2469 |
Senior Member
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
Thanks so much, Jan. Love what youre doing too. Keep up the good work.
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'55 Big Window Shortbed, Drive-It-&-Work-On-It slid down the "slippery slope" to a Frame-Off Rodstoration! LQ4/4l85e/C4 IFS/Mustang 8.8 rearend w/3.73's Dan's '55 Big Window "Build" - Well, Kinda! |
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#2470 |
Senior Member
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
Pulled out my window regulators today. The rollers are partly broken and they’re all frozen. They don’t rotate at all.
I bought new ones from CPP awhile back and finally opened the envelope today to see they come with new rivets. I wasn’t sure how to go about installing them until it occurred to me to check YouTube. Sure enough, Danchuk has a short video telling you how to replace them for a TriFive car - whose regulators are essentially identical to our TF trucks. Here’s the video. There may be others. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xF1rok1yN9s
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'55 Big Window Shortbed, Drive-It-&-Work-On-It slid down the "slippery slope" to a Frame-Off Rodstoration! LQ4/4l85e/C4 IFS/Mustang 8.8 rearend w/3.73's Dan's '55 Big Window "Build" - Well, Kinda! Last edited by Dan in Pasadena; 02-22-2018 at 01:34 AM. |
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#2471 |
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
PS: Has anyone lubricated their window gears? I plan to, and I guess I’ll use white moly grease? But I have Gibbs oil too. Any other suggestions that will work well and stay where put would be appreciated.
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'55 Big Window Shortbed, Drive-It-&-Work-On-It slid down the "slippery slope" to a Frame-Off Rodstoration! LQ4/4l85e/C4 IFS/Mustang 8.8 rearend w/3.73's Dan's '55 Big Window "Build" - Well, Kinda! |
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#2472 |
Senior Member
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Location: Shasta Lake, CA.
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
I'm suprised your not going with Power Windows, after all its one of those might as wells as long as your in this deep.
Gee I have them for my build .... ![]()
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Glen & Jane's Rides ‘57 GMC NAPCO Long Bed V8 4 speed Bought 2008 7 other cars & trucks , 5 trailers '56 Chevy Long Bed I6, 4 speed Bought 1990 Sold 8.22.2020 ’56 GMC Suburban Pickup V8, 4 speed Hydramatic Bought 1996 Sold 10.11.2020 My Other Tinkerings http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...75#post8967275 |
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#2473 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: St-Hyacinthe, Quebec, Canada
Posts: 34
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
Can't remember where but I KNOW I've seen power window actuators that use original window handles that you crank up or down 15 degrees. Won't change the look of original yet you'd have power windows.
Darn memory keeps failing me. ![]() ![]() Last edited by JSavoie; 02-22-2018 at 09:25 AM. |
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#2474 |
Senior Member
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
Hi guys.
I considered power windows and I asked Mike; the guy who owns the shop that did much of the mechanical work, about them. He said he didn’t recommend them because he’s had reliability issues with all the kits he’s installed. I’m ok with that because it saves me money and I like the “old-school-ness” of manual windows. YMMV, but I’m ok with the decision; at least for now.
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'55 Big Window Shortbed, Drive-It-&-Work-On-It slid down the "slippery slope" to a Frame-Off Rodstoration! LQ4/4l85e/C4 IFS/Mustang 8.8 rearend w/3.73's Dan's '55 Big Window "Build" - Well, Kinda! |
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#2475 |
Senior Member
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Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
Here’s a little tutorial on removing & replacing the window roller rivets. I found it to be extremely easy and fast. Took 5-10 minutes per regulator, maybe less.
Contrary to the guy on the Danchuk video on YouTube I didn’t drill out the rivets. I didn’t like how he hogged out the rivet instead of drilling it straight. 1. I decided to simply grind off the head flush using my bench grinder and punch it out with a ball peen hammer. 2. The replacement rivet and roller simply go back in the hole with a couple taps. They have shoulders on them so it it’s not possible to hammer them in too far. 3. I don’t have a rivet flaring punch shown in the video and I learned the trick too late, after I’d done a couple “wrong” - but they work fine. You simply “split” the clinch side of the rivet using the ball peen end of the hammer. Once it splits you just tap the ends flat. Stupidly, I used the hammer head at first and it deforms the hollow end of the rivet, clinching it. The swell was not enough to bind the roller. 4. You can see the two results in the picture but no one will ever see them and they work fine. Learn from my mistake! Easy peasy. 5. A quick touch up with dull aluminum spray paint and they’ll be good as new. I will make a separate post on this subject so a future searcher can find it. I hope it helps someone.
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'55 Big Window Shortbed, Drive-It-&-Work-On-It slid down the "slippery slope" to a Frame-Off Rodstoration! LQ4/4l85e/C4 IFS/Mustang 8.8 rearend w/3.73's Dan's '55 Big Window "Build" - Well, Kinda! Last edited by Dan in Pasadena; 02-22-2018 at 11:01 PM. |
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