Painting dilemma need some advice

[BionicABs1]

So the 71 I got recently has original paint but has had the drivers door repainted. The color is way off and it bugs me to no end. I took it to a body shop to ask if he could get it closer. He tried and they used the camera to try to mix it and tried 4 blends and couldn't get it better enough to paint it. I plan on trying another shop tomorrow but in the meantime I was wondering who has had this issue and how you handled it. The factory color is medium bronze.


[/IMG]

[GASoline71]

So you're trying to match stock faded paint?

Gary

[BionicABs1]

I am not trying for perfection but closer than what it is.

[GASoline71]

I have abuddy that has a '72 Monte Carlo that has the original paint. He has polished it up and it looks fantastic. He had a few rust patches fixed , and the shop matched the paint damn near perfect. The shop got the color as close as possible, then shot it with a clearcoat and then dulled that somehow to make it blend in.

I know where the rust used to be on his car, but for anybody looking at it without knowing... it's impossible to tell.

Gary

[Rufton]

It's tough.
Two PPG shop's tried to match metallic blue but only got in the ball park.
O'reillys had the patience to mix 3 samples of chromabase to match red. I was very lucky the third scan matched.
A wizard could match but I don't wheres the curtain.

[FL71C10]

I had a 68 Camaro that was that color or close to it, and it was very tough to match. It seems to fade quite a bit.

Maybe you can redo the whole side? I know you're trying to keep the original paint, but...

[Rochlow]

I had this happen when I repainted my cab. I'm going to back tape/ foam tape the truck, blend the paint and reclear.

Your issue is I'm pretty sure the factory paint isn't base/clear. One way the tell is get a piece of sand paper sand a spot that your not worried about. If the color on the paper is clear/white it's base/clear. If it turns orange it's single stage
Posted via Mobile Device

[BionicABs1]

I am sure it's single stage.

[68GMCburban]

I don't know anything on the paint side of this. I just wanted to say how sweet of a truck you have, even with the unmatched door.

[Zach B]

A good friend of mine had that problem. He went to a local paint shop with a chipped pice of paint and they got it almost perfect. Unfortunately you would have to cup off a pice of your paint to get the look you want.
Posted via Mobile Device

[BionicABs1]

if I can't get it matched better than it is my next dilemma is what color to paint the whole truck.....

[Rufton]

If you let oreillys scan it for dupont paint it will match better.
The new paint will likely look richer with more gloss.
It will probably still bug you.

[Rufton]

Have you tried to color sand and buff the door?
Looks like it needs buffing from here.

[CC69Rat]

SS Metallic ? How much paint is on the door?

I'm thinking 2500 / 3000 wet and let it ride. (No buffing) The 3000 will actually polish the paint to semi-weathered look, and almost like a 70% flat sheen ?

Maybe do this first, then buff the whole truck with 3M stage 1, a.k.a. Finesse It if you want it to shine a little. IF you buff it, stay around 1200 rpms, and keep the pad good and wet with material. If it gets dry as the pad spins it takes more paint off and you can burn an edge pretty quickly. (that's why I wouldn't go more than 1200 rpm)

Might be a good way to add shine AND patina all in the same effort.

Seriously though, maybe try a spot on the window frame and see what you think. My bet is it would darken / kinda more redd'ish look in the paint.

IF you add that IF stripe back on it and kinda muted it back / weathered look too my thought being it would tie the whole side of the truck back together. IT looks like it may have been sanded at like 1500 now ? Bottom line, .. I don't think I'd paint it at all. Especially if it's metallic.