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#1 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Godley, TX
Posts: 17,963
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Tilt column turn signal switch question
Have read what I believe are most of the pertinent threads on this subj, but two burning questions remain based on previous non-tilt experiences and the shop manual. Shop manual outlines two steps that I'm not certain are absolutely required for JUST a turn signal switch replacement (famous last words, I know...)
A) removing the individual connector pins from the crescent shaped connector at the end of the harness, and B) removing the switch housing with a gear puller I DON'T think A is required. I DO think B may be required But if I was 100% sure of that, I wouldn't be asking ![]() Seem to recall doing this before without doing EITHER A or B - but I may be mixing in the non-tilt t/s switch replacements I've done in the past to my thinking. For anyone that has done this recently - do you have to pop out the pins (i.e. my assumption was that you could feed the crescent end of harness clip thru the column once the column support and wire protector are removed without removing pins from the crescent) and do you HAVE to remove the outer switch housing if all you're trying to do is replace the switch? I think the answers are "no" to A/"yes" to B. But since I'm sitting on my butt waiting on the parts anyway, figured I'd ask some questions. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin & Arizona
Posts: 4,844
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Re: Tilt column turn signal switch question
I rebuilt 3 of these about 2-3 years ago and the exact details are a bit lost among all the other tasks associated with restoring my truck. My rebuilds required complete teardowns.
With that in mind... - I don't see how you can get the wires fished through the shift bowl unless you remove it or the wires from the connector. - I am almost certain the switch housing needs to be removed. I made my own puller out of some scrap stuff from other projects. Some have said it can be removed by tapping it off with a screwdriver which could cause damage. Either way there may be rust holding the housing on. Penetrating oil may be you friend. Tapping the circumference of the collar/housing with a rubber mallet may also help. Jim Last edited by FirstOwner69; 09-06-2016 at 11:21 PM. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Godley, TX
Posts: 17,963
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Re: Tilt column turn signal switch question
Thanks Jim - I've heard of the prying/tapping off of the cover also, but concerned about the risk of deforming the shift lever hole or whatever hole I'm putting the bar thru getting distorted. I may have an old inside gear puller that will work, but it might be too bulky. Figured I'd have to remove the cover, but seems like I recall being able to wiggle the crescent out thru the openings in the back of the cover/top of the column, etc. But that may have been on a non-tilt. In fact, that may have been on my 66 some time ago. If only I could remember all the things I've forgotten, ha. But, am sure it will be apparent when I dig into it. I've broken it down to the switch housing - waiting on parts before I go further - with MY memory, want to have just removed it so I will remember how to put it back on! Thanks again.
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#4 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Cadiz, Ky
Posts: 512
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Re: Tilt column turn signal switch question
You will need to remove the pins from the connector for a tilt column. It can be done without on a non tilt. I was able to get the switch housing off without a puller by tapping it lightly. Be careful with the rolled edge it is very thin and can be bent easily.
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1972 Chevy LWB Roadster 1999 Chevy Silverado 2wd 2015 Chevy High Country 4x4 Crew Cab |
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