What Thermostat for my 454? (Virginia)

[KyleSeal]

454 Big Block Chevy bored 30 over with a COMP Cam big mutha thumpr cam, but mainly stock throughout besides a 750 double pumper and Edelbrock Performer RPM intake.
Weather here varies from the dead of winter at possibly 20 degrees Fahrenheit, to hot summers at 100 degrees. I currently have a 160 degree stat in there, but it barely goes over 170/180 ever.
I was advised for a 190 or 195 stat to get moisture evaporated from the motor.. what do you guys use? I'm replacing the water neck and hoses soon so I'd like to throw a higher stat in if recommended.
Pic for fun.

[cadillac_al]

I run 195's in everything just for that reason.

[tucsonjwt]

I have been using a 160 in my 83 C20 454 with SM465. This truck is a camper special with a factory oil cooler. Temperature in the winter can get down to single digits (certainly below freezing every winter) and the summer is over 100 (up to about 115) in the HotZona desert

My factory temp gauge never gets much over 160, but I don't know if it is accurate. Big blocks get very hot, so I think getting the coolant circulating sooner is a good idea.

[KyleSeal]

So what should I use? I was just thinking 190 since it's gonna be a cold winter and lots of cold starts
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[SkinnyG]

I run a 195° in my 10.9:1/350/305-head/snotty-cam and it's fine, even against recommendations to run colder because of the heads & compression. It's fine.

Fuel vapourizes and burns better when it's hot.

[cadillac_al]

Most of the new cars run pretty close to 212 degrees. I guess it's supposed to be more efficient too. I haven't drove my Deville for a year now but those run about 206 degrees.

[tucsonjwt]

Newer vehicles do run hotter - I think mostly for emissions reasons - but my experience with two BBs is that they get very hot relatively quickly. In fact, that excess heat causes problems with the starter and probably premature deterioration of plastic and rubber components. Unless you only drive your truck a couple of miles per trip, I would stick with the 160.

[DieselSJ]

Originally Posted by cadillac_al

I run 195's in everything just for that reason.

^^This^^

Originally Posted by tucsonjwt

Newer vehicles do run hotter - I think mostly for emissions reasons - but my experience with two BBs is that they get very hot relatively quickly. In fact, that excess heat causes problems with the starter and probably premature deterioration of plastic and rubber components. Unless you only drive your truck a couple of miles per trip, I would stick with the 160.

These make better power at higher temps. 160 is way too low. The coldest I would ever run is a 185. Your statements about starters and breaking down of rubber and plastic are purely anecdotal. There are zero advantages of running a 160 instead of a 195.

[Nick_R_23]

195's in everything. It's been proven that the hotter thermostats actually help prevent both engine wear and oil life, as well as help the engine burn cleaner. 180 would be acceptable in a carbeurator application, but I would still choose a 195 if it was offered. You should never need a 160 in a street application.

[SkinnyG]

Lower operating temperatures mean more fuel washing oil off the cylinder walls = cylinder wear.

[S10Fan]

Originally Posted by KyleSeal

454 Big Block Chevy bored 30 over with a COMP Cam big mutha thumpr cam, but mainly stock throughout besides a 750 double pumper and Edelbrock Performer RPM intake.
Weather here varies from the dead of winter at possibly 20 degrees Fahrenheit, to hot summers at 100 degrees. I currently have a 160 degree stat in there, but it barely goes over 170/180 ever.
I was advised for a 190 or 195 stat to get moisture evaporated from the motor.. what do you guys use? I'm replacing the water neck and hoses soon so I'd like to throw a higher stat in if recommended.
Pic for fun.

I run a 185 in my stock BB. I'd say as long as you fan, fan clutch, and radiator are functioning properly you should be fine at 190-195.

BTW, I'm in Toano most everyday with work, UPS.

[nonstop]

I ran 160, 180, and 195 in my 454. The 160 flat out was no good for the engine. It always ran too hot with the 195, both in the in dash gauge and IR temp gun (around 210 to 220 or so, but it stayed constant). I tried different thermostats and still got the same numbers. I put in the 180, and it is in the sweet spot of around 190 or 195. Do not know why it is working like this, but it is, and no sense in still rooting around if it works.

You may have to experiment a little bit with thermostats, but might as well start with the 195. I liked the hotter because it burns off impurities and moisture in the oil which helps since the truck is not my daily driver.

[Dead Parrot]

From what I have managed to research, the temp rating on a thermostat is the "Start to Open" point. The stable running point will be 10 to 20* higher depending on engine, coolant flow, fan, amount of bug crud in the radiator etc.

Your 210~220 with a 195 thermostat is expected. Keep in mind that 25+ year old senders and gauges are likely to be 10~20% off. And that is assuming they are a matched set, which is often untrue if one or more have been replaced. If your gauges are matching your hand held temp checker, feel lucky.

[nonstop]

I was happy the two temps matched up, but that was finally after doing a bunch of different sensor swaps. Truthfully, the temps leveled out with the 195, and it would have likely been okay, but it's now a matter of feeling comfortable looking at the gauge not going too much to the right.

So point is for the OP, you might have to experiment with a 180 or 195, to get an optimal temp for your truck. And make sure to drill a hole in the thermostat!

[S10Fan]

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

Your 210~220 with a 195 thermostat is expected. Keep in mind that 25+ year old senders and gauges are likely to be 10~20% off. And that is assuming they are a matched set, which is often untrue if one or more have been replaced. If your gauges are matching your hand held temp checker, feel lucky.

Excellent point. I fought what I thought was a "Too Hot" condition in my V-8 S-10, 383, 2000 stall, Corvette radiator, mechanical fan with shroud, still ran in the 200-210 range. The motor never smelled "hot", never overflowed, and ran great. After several weeks of changing thermostats, and using a hand held sensor, poor gauge performance was the issue. I called Sun (the manufacturer) and one of their techs told me the gauge tolerance was in the 20-25% range! A switch to AutoMeter gauges cooled the motor down to the 185-190 range.

[KyleSeal]

The truck has the stock temp gauge, with the stock motor, with a brand new stock replacement radiator with all original cooling system. I have faith in the gauge as when I went to the beach with my truck and drove in 4wd across the beach the motor heated up to 210ish. So I have faith it is correct.