68 K20 a good starter truck?

[Jonlopes]

I am still searching for my project truck and I not having much luck. I have been asking lots of questions here lately and appreciate all of the great people and advice. I found a 1968 K20 locally that looks good in the online pictures.

I have been looking at mostly c20's just because they seem to be both available and reasonably priced. I don't need 4 wheel drive though I do like the look.

I have a buddy that is really into 67-72 trucks and he told me to be very careful with the older K20's because you can't get parts for the brakes so if anything happens I would have to swap out the axles for something newer (which is a little more than I am looking to tackle). does this sound right? Should I pass on this one and keep looking for a nice 2 wheel drive?

[SS Tim]

The early closed knuckle, drum brake front end and the T211 transfer case are both obsolete and can be a service problem.

IMHO a 71-72 is probably the best starter truck and the generally have the modern features people expect like power dics brakes and power steering. Plus a much better chance of finding an A/C truck too. A small block C20 (4x2) coil truck is probably a good choice if its not been beat. Purchase price should not be the deciding factor. Buy the best you can afford and realize about $0.50 of ever dollar throw into it for repairs and upgrades is probably unrecoverable if you decide or need to sell it.

[truckster]

If you don't have a use for 4WD you may not like it. It will decrease your fuel economy and increase your maintenance costs.

Of course, all of this depends on what you intend to do with your truck. You mention a project truck, but what do you want to have at the end of your project? How are you going to use it? How much will you drive it, and where? Do you want to show it, drive it, or both? Those are questions that should be helping you figure out what truck to buy.

[Jonlopes]

Thanks for the advice again! This board is awesome.

I am looking for a project to tinker in the garage and drive to Home Depot on the weekends. Most projects are never ending but I want both a project and a truck so I sold my 1967 Jeepster Commando to fund this. Gas mileage is not an issue at all, in fact I would be more worried about the gas getting too old before I finish the tank in the early stages at least.

I am perfectly cool with a 2wd as long as it has not been lowered. Most of the trucks I have seen in the $3-6K range are basket cases. Some are advertised as no rust yet have enough bubbling all around the cab roof to make me run away screaming and others that actually have no rust have other issues like one I looked at yesterday had 17 holes drilled in each door among other issues (apparently the PO wanted to try every mirror option available).

[In The Ten Ring]

It seems you know what you are in for......hobbies like these are hard to get your money back out of. I don't expect to. Now if I wasn't learning as I go with my truck I might recoup the $$$$ but it's not a big thing for me.

If you do get a 4wd, it should have a higher resale value if you don't turn it into some sort of low rider (sorry low rider members). LOL

Besides, if you do get a 4x4 you might find uses for it: hunting trips into the back country for example.

I would think you'd be able to find a 2wd pretty easily where you are that isn't a bondo buggy. It's not so easy where I am!

[Big Kev-O]

67-68 don't have disc brakes from the factory but the do have the "Slant Nose" hood. I think the Slants look better and I like the side markers so 68s are my favorite. I live pretty close to you and my buying experience was close to yours, lots of hidden rust and people who think bondo and flat black paint make thier rotted old truck worth $5k. I ended up spending $4500 to get a rust free unmolested longbed with a 350. Welcom to the board, it helped me out a lot.

[Jonlopes]

Originally Posted by Big Kev-O

67-68 don't have disc brakes from the factory but the do have the "Slant Nose" hood. I think the Slants look better and I like the side markers so 68s are my favorite. I live pretty close to you and my buying experience was close to yours, lots of hidden rust and people who think bondo and flat black paint make thier rotted old truck worth $5k. I ended up spending $4500 to get a rust free unmolested longbed with a 350. Welcom to the board, it helped me out a lot.

I feel the same way, I like 67+68 for their looks and 71+72 for the disc brakes. If it is a 69-70 I am less interested though you never know.

[leddzepp]

Keep looking. I found a loaded rust free c-20 big block truck for $2500 a couple months ago. I waited too long and someone else bought it . If the CL ad has been up a while it's a good indicator the truck is over priced or has issues.

[Jonlopes]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

Keep looking. I found a loaded rust free c-20 big block truck for $2500 a couple months ago. I waited too long and someone else bought it . If the CL ad has been up a while it's a good indicator the truck is over priced or has issues.

Man, I would pay double that in cash right now for a loaded rust free big block c20! I have noticed there are several ads that have been up for 2+ months.

[BigMike]

Have you seen this one yet?

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/5008943562.html

Pictures look decent enough, not lowered.

[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by BigMike

Have you seen this one yet?

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/5008943562.html

Pictures look decent enough, not lowered.

"...this truck came in from texas, so it needs a weight certificate and vin verification to complete the registration, I have the lien sale papers ready to go!"

Out of state truck in CA with an unverifed VIN being sold on liensale papers... sounds like a problem waiting to happen.

[BigMike]

Ya I saw that, but if it's as clean as the pictures show it isn't THAT much work to get it inspected and licensed...been there done that. plus gives you some bargaining leverage. If all the ones he's been looking at have been rusty or basket cases doesn't it at least deserve a look? Just trying to help

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

"...this truck came in from texas, so it needs a weight certificate and vin verification to complete the registration, I have the lien sale papers ready to go!"

Out of state truck in CA with an unverifed VIN being sold on liensale papers... sounds like a problem waiting to happen.

Agree 100%. The price is good, however I would examine the truck very closely and confirm that the vin on the frame matches the vin plate on the truck, and most important make sure the rosette rivets are present and that the cab vin plate is not attached with pop rivets. If it was ready registered and tagged here I would not care so much, but when needing an inspection it is VERY important. If the SPID is present, make sure the vin on it matches the vin on the cab. I have brought in out of state trucks and this is what the DMV inspectors look at. The weight certificate is nothing, $10 for one at a feed store with a scale. The seller knows enough about the process so I would have to wonder why he has not done what is necessary to register it. If everything is legitimate it's not a big deal to do it. The lien sale papers are a whole different problem though... If it were done and registered, he could ask a lot more for the truck IMO.

[leddzepp]

That's a beaut! If I were in the market Id be down there tomorrow with $3500 cash up front. The only negative (for me) is the three on the tree. The pics speak for themselves and rust free dent free original sheet metal is the most important factor. Have another $500 in your left pocket, and another $500 in your sock just in case. Stop by cheyenneshortstep's on your way home and pick up a TH350 or 400

[In The Ten Ring]

I my opinion, a manual shift is what a truck should be. Anyone can drive an automatic, but everyone knows, manuals are much more fun.

I love the 3 speeds on the column. That's what my truck is and I love it.

[Jonlopes]

Normally I prefer a manual transmission from 3-4 speed Chevelle/ GTO's to modern cars like my old WRX. I test drove a c20 with the 4 speed granny gear and hated it. It felt clunky and was a chore to shift. first gear is useless and in second gear it was revving pretty hard at like 15 mph which left just 2 gears to actually use.

Once I had a 56 chevy 210 wagon with 3-on-the-tree and that was a pretty cool car though any passengers look at you kind of funny since they are not expecting you to use the column lever for anything other than putting it in drive.

[BigMike]

Here's a 67 C20 http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv...005261937.html