07-08-2017, 06:47 PM | #1 |
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I Bought Frankenstein
Over the course of the last couple of years, I have been going through the truck and undoing the weird stuff that has been done to it over the years as needed. This morning I lost my rear U-joint, which poses the next problem.
The truck (cab/frame) is a 71 K20, but based on what I've been told I don't believe the axles are original to the truck. The rear axle is a 12 bolt, 6 lug axle with the following casting and stamp #'s: Casting #'s GM 53 3896838 Stamp # HB0130W2 Is there any way to find out where this axle came from based on those #'s so I know what U-joint and flange I need? |
07-08-2017, 07:13 PM | #2 |
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Re: I Bought Frankenstein
Not sure but might find something here that helps.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...identification |
07-08-2017, 10:51 PM | #3 |
The Older Generation
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Re: I Bought Frankenstein
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According to the charts I posted here, HB is a 3.07 for '67, '68, and '69 1/2 ton. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=578793 LockDoc
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Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 - |
07-09-2017, 01:18 AM | #4 |
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Re: I Bought Frankenstein
If the pieces of the joint are big enough, you can take it to a parts store or driveline shop and they should be able to Mic it a day get you the right one.
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07-11-2017, 12:33 PM | #5 |
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Re: I Bought Frankenstein
When I built my custom 69 K10, I had a 60 transfer case with a GM 12 bolt rear axle. I mic'd the driveshaft U-Joint and the yoke on the rear axle, and searched through the book until I found a cross (U-Joint) that was different dimensions in one axis VS the other.
Then, instead of the standard strap kit used on the corporate rear axles, I had to go with a fully enclosed machined "cap" that installed with Allen head screws. I sheared off two sets of the straps before I went with the caps. I had a 375 HP 350, 4 speed, 33" tires, and 4.10 gears and LS rear differential.
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1970 GMC K2500 Dis-use is harder on a car than mis-use. |
07-12-2017, 12:55 PM | #6 |
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Re: I Bought Frankenstein
Where on the differential is the code stamped? I saw the number that startswith gm but didntsee other.
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07-12-2017, 02:13 PM | #7 |
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Re: I Bought Frankenstein
Shouldn't a K20 have had 8-lug axles?
Also if it's a 71 C/K 10 it would have had 5 lugs, 6 lugs ended in 1970 for the 1/2 tons.
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1970 C10 LWB 350SBC, SM330 Muncie (not saginaw SM326) (on tree), 3.07 open (assumed), PS, PB, Idiot lights |
07-12-2017, 04:28 PM | #8 | |
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Re: I Bought Frankenstein
Quote:
K/20=8 Lugs K/10=6 Lugs C/10=6 Lugs thru MY '70 C/10=5 Lugs MY '71 on. 2B32: How many lugs on your front axle?. Is it a 4x4? Could you give us the first 6 or 7 digits of your VIN?
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 07-12-2017 at 04:36 PM. |
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07-12-2017, 04:53 PM | #9 |
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Re: I Bought Frankenstein
my use of C/K was just either C or K not meaning an actual "C/K" (didn't know there was such a thing)
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1970 C10 LWB 350SBC, SM330 Muncie (not saginaw SM326) (on tree), 3.07 open (assumed), PS, PB, Idiot lights |
07-12-2017, 09:14 PM | #10 |
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Re: I Bought Frankenstein
Well yeah. Nobody's perfect. But your statement was only correct for C/-class trucks - Post 1971. K/10 [+K/5] trucks retained 6 lugs.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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