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11-14-2006, 09:02 PM | #1 |
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400 small block motor
Give me your thoughts. I just ran across a 71 with a 400 in it.
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11-14-2006, 09:10 PM | #2 |
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Re: 400 small block motor
I think I would need a little more information to give you an answer. But I like 400 sb chevy engines and have had good luck with them.
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11-14-2006, 09:45 PM | #3 |
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Re: 400 small block motor
It is a 71 custom longbed, but the glovebox sheet indicates a 350 so I asked what was up. He bought it 11 years ago so it had to be swapped out at some point prior.
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11-14-2006, 11:30 PM | #4 |
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Re: 400 small block motor
Make dang sure the block is not cracked on the 400. They are notorious for overheat sensitivity and will not generally survive being overheated. Reasearch the fact and you will see what I mean.
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11-14-2006, 11:32 PM | #5 |
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Re: 400 small block motor
Not trying to ryle up anyone here, just that you need to know that the 400 is a whole different breed of small block in the structure of the cooling jackets. Once you are aware they are different than say a 350 0r 327, then it is your choice to go the 400 route or not.
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11-15-2006, 12:53 AM | #6 |
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Re: 400 small block motor
I'm telling you guys from experience......I have had no problems with my '71 w/ a 400sb. I have a friend who drag races his 450hp 406sb(bored 400).....with no problems....of course he's running dual electric fans, and running a high 11 sec. '67 nova. He built his motor, and he's helping me build my first motor, a 406sb.
But make sure, that the block is good. If it 's not, you're SOL. there are cooling differences than the 350, but still do share a good amount of parts.
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11-15-2006, 10:34 AM | #7 |
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Re: 400 small block motor
Ahh the mighty 400. Pay no attention to the overheating rumors. You just need to understand how these engines work. The biggest cause of overheating in these engines is swapping 350 heads onto it WITHOUT drilling the STEAM HOLES! There are six 1/8" holes between the bores on the block that need to be drilled in corresponding locations between the chambers. This keeps steam from getting trapped under the deck.
The blocks come in three casting numbers: 817, 511 and 509 with the 817 being the softest/weakest casting and the 509 being the strongest. Check the casting number to see what you've got (stout, long-lasting engines have been made from each casting so don't be discouraged if it's not a 509). Unlike the 350, the 2-bolt version of the 400 block is stronger. It has more web material than the 4-bolt which makes it perfect for adding splayed 4-bolt mains (read: indestructable). The 400 came from the factory with an externally balanced rotating assembly which is great for low RPM torque but not too easy on the crank for higher RPM applications. If you are swapping out the internals, definitely get an internally balanced crank. Also, stock 400's suffer from incredibly short rods (5.65" IIRC). A 5.7" or 6" rod will decrease side loading on the cylinder walls and prolong TDC piston-dwell. These engines need cam, and lots of it for serious performance. They are stump pullers from the factory but they can swallow huge amounts of lift and duration without getting too "cammy." The 406 in my camaro sports a sizeable comp cams XE284. In short, these engines are the perfect compromise between big block power and small block size and parts availability and I don't think I would ever go with any other chevy engine. Last edited by hardline_42; 11-15-2006 at 10:34 AM. |
11-15-2006, 02:56 PM | #8 |
what knocking sound?
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Re: 400 small block motor
My only experience with a 400 was in my 78 blazer. It only lasted six months before it scored 3 cylinders. Maybe it was a fluke, but in my opinion, the only good part of a 400 is the crank.
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11-15-2006, 03:19 PM | #9 |
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Re: 400 small block motor
So , like I said , considering all of the facts, it's your call. One of the big reasons the cylinders will score is that with uneven cooling around the cylinders,,,, they will run egg shaped. Some race engine builders run hot coolant through the block so the 400 will duplicat the running temperature and then they bore the cylinders.
Too much trouble if you ask me.+ |
07-24-2007, 11:11 PM | #10 | |
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Re: 400 small block motor
Quote:
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11-15-2006, 03:35 PM | #11 |
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Re: 400 small block motor
The 400 block is a siamesed block just like any number of performance 350 blocks (read: bowtie blocks). It shouldn't run any hotter or any different. Granted the factory applications of this engine was not for high performance or high RPM use. The extreme side loading at high RPM caused by the short stock rods is probably more of a culprit in egging out the bores than anything else.
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11-15-2006, 03:48 PM | #12 |
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Re: 400 small block motor
Only overheating even remotely shows up, is when I'm idleing in 80+ degree weather, and am running a flex fan. Crept up to 220 in 20 min of just sitting in traffic.
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'71 SNB, 406sbc, TH350 w/ Transpak & Starshifter, 12bolt w/ 3.73s, 2" Early Classic front coils, 2.5" Flowmaster Super 40's
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11-15-2006, 11:42 PM | #13 |
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Re: 400 small block motor
A built 400 = gobs of torque and power( good idea if done right!!! I agree with that, I tried to do it ubtil mine was found to be CRACKED!!!)
General good old boy run and maintained 400 with miles and plugged/sludged cooling passages and steam vents ( an 1/8 of an inch hole that if plugged spells disaster!!) is a catastrophe waiting to happen!! Steer clear!!!!!! |
11-15-2006, 11:52 PM | #14 |
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Re: 400 small block motor
ok guys, i got a 72' 400 sbc now at 406, longer rods, air gap intake, 99' gm vortech heads, drilled for teh holes, new springs, a step above a stock lt1 cam, edelbrock 650 carb, 1 5/8 headders, with estimated 9.5:1 compression on pump gas, with hei ignition,, mated up to a sm465/np205 all situated into my 72' gmc jimmy.... my main problem now is keeping u joints, and yokes on the truck, and i have yet to take it off road, the 33" tires, 3.73 posi rear, with a slight clutch dump, will break anythign on the driveshaft super fast
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11-16-2006, 10:05 AM | #15 | |
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Re: 400 small block motor
Quote:
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11-16-2006, 01:27 AM | #16 |
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Re: 400 small block motor
no other small block for me when it comes to a truck!
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11-16-2006, 01:58 AM | #17 |
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Re: 400 small block motor
My budget sb400 rebuild. Just had to try out the new camera. I am going for the retro look...no paint yet.
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11-16-2006, 03:12 AM | #18 |
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Re: 400 small block motor
WOAH! I'm doing the same look to my 400/now 406. i've got a set of those valve covers. How are you planning to put in the oil??? I'm going for the old school, sleeper look. Orange covers w/ white lettering, orange block, orange heads, orange timing cover, orange oil pan, orange air cleaner topper or black.
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11-16-2006, 09:52 AM | #19 |
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Re: 400 small block motor
A good point. The old valve covers look cool but what about the cranckcase vent???? and like you say, what about the oil fill?????
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07-24-2007, 11:56 AM | #20 |
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Re: 400 small block motor
I have a set of those valve covers and was wondering what year they were available and on what engines.
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11-16-2006, 12:57 PM | #21 |
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Re: 400 small block motor
what r's were thoes at?
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11-16-2006, 01:00 PM | #22 |
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Re: 400 small block motor
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11-16-2006, 01:17 PM | #23 |
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Re: 400 small block motor
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11-16-2006, 01:42 PM | #24 |
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Re: 400 small block motor
My '72 has a sb400...it came with a 402bb, but it was traded somewhere along the way. The sb400 is a '73 model which was used in vans/buses, and only rated at 175hp.
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11-16-2006, 04:12 PM | #25 |
its all about the +6 inches
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Re: 400 small block motor
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