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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: nor cal
Posts: 218
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Trying to bleed the system for the first time with new SS lines. I have read alot of posts about the right way to do it. Heres the problem, The brass plunger on the front of the combination/proportioning valve will not go in. The manual says to depress it, but it wont. I even bought a new one thinking my old one was bad since it didn't go in either. I bench bled the master, and started bleeding at the drivers rear (actually further from the Master than the passengers side if you look at how long the brake lines are)
Anyone know if it needs to go in, or should I just make sure it doesn't come further out with a clamp. Been getting air from the rear lines all day and have gone through 1/2 gallon of dot3. Almost to the point of taking it to a shop... but I like to do as much as I can myself. CST350 |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: OLIVEHURST CA
Posts: 570
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Re: Brake bleeding help needed!
I assume youve done this before successfully right?
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#3 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: bmt,tx
Posts: 127
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Re: Brake bleeding help needed!
maybe this will help ,
First start with the normal gravity bleed . Next instead of pumping the brakes several times and then bleeding it, have the person in the cab push the pedal down 1 time and hold it , you then open the bleeder until the pressure is gone ( usally about 1 or 2 seconds ) close the bleeder then tell the person in the cab to release the pedal , wait about 5 seconds then have the person in the cab press the brake 1 time again ,hold it , and then you bleed it . Repeat this process until you start getting good fluid and move to the next wheel. This pushes the fluid instead of cavatating the fluid and making more little air bubbles. Start and the right rear , left rear , right front , left front then master cyl just to double check it . The plunger on the proportioning valve will push out when you apply the brake after all of the fluid is bleed and no more air is in the system . Tim |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: nor cal
Posts: 218
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Re: Brake bleeding help needed!
Thanks Tim, I will give that method a go...
was using a vacum pump and speed bleeders. I have bled the brakes when I went to discs, but it was with stock bleeders. |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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Re: Brake bleeding help needed!
when bleeding rears you should start at left rear as that is the furthest away from the master cylinder then the right rear
lots of guys make the mistake of doing it backwards and end up still with air problems
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: nor cal
Posts: 218
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Re: Brake bleeding help needed!
left = drivers side???
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#7 |
~Rest In Peace~
Join Date: May 2005
Location: CALIFORNIA NOR CAL
Posts: 9,707
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Re: Brake bleeding help needed!
left right it dont matter which side if you bleed the brakes my way you dont need anyone to pump the brakes but your self one man job ,you can do all 4 brakes at once too ,just make sure the master cylinder is full and dont let it go dry , you will need 4 snapple bottles empty ,4 rubber hoses long enuff to reach the bleeder to bottle 2 feet should do on each brake ,fill the bottles with new brake fluid 1/4 way up,and loosen the bleeder open ,put the hose on the end to the bleeder ,do this to all 4 brakes ,now pump the brake pedal until the air bubble stop blowing and brake fluid is filling up in the bottles ,make sure master cyl. is full so check very 5 pumps or so ,take your time gravity feed will take over when not pumping ,once you get fluid coming out and no bubbles ,close the bleeders and remove hose and bottle ,pedal should be nice a firm ,clean operation ,good way to flush system too
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is it fast ? it has a lighting bolt donut? B___H please, I can remove 90% of your so called "beauty" with a kleenex |
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#8 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: OLIVEHURST CA
Posts: 570
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Re: Brake bleeding help needed!
Quote:
TO TRY |
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#9 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: OLIVEHURST CA
Posts: 570
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Re: Brake bleeding help needed!
Quote:
TO TRY |
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#10 |
~Rest In Peace~
Join Date: May 2005
Location: CALIFORNIA NOR CAL
Posts: 9,707
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Re: Brake bleeding help needed!
it will suck back in but not enuff to let air in the system once u get steady stream of fluid then close the bleeder
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is it fast ? it has a lighting bolt donut? B___H please, I can remove 90% of your so called "beauty" with a kleenex |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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Re: Brake bleeding help needed!
that is correct// you have a brake line that run down the passenger side goes into a rubber hose then a junction on the rear axel an 18' tube goes to the passenger side brake a 36" tube goes to the drivers side brake
that should seem to tell you that the drivers side brake cylinder is further away from the master cylinder than the short tube to the passenger side brake cylinder
__________________
71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
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#12 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Dyer, Indiana
Posts: 395
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Re: Brake bleeding help needed!
I got to try that snapple method.
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1969 Chevy K20 Longbed |
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#13 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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Re: Brake bleeding help needed!
I'm amazed at how many people say it matters which side to do first.
You have one line that goes the length of the vehicle, that goes to a T fitting, then left and right. Same thing to the front. I have led the brakes on hundreds of cars and trucks (mostly trucks) and close to 50% of them have been from a dry master cylinder. It doesn't matter what side you start from, and unless it is a 66 or lder with a single pot master cylinder, it doesn't matter what end of the vehicle you start from. |
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#14 | |
God is good!
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 689
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Re: Brake bleeding help needed!
Quote:
Thanks for the tip. M
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Mando "It takes a smart man to know when he's stupid." -- Barney Rubble My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=430367 |
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#15 |
Grandpa in the rustmobile...
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Spokane WA/Viola TN
Posts: 11,422
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Re: Brake bleeding help needed!
Bleeding brakes is my least favorite thing to do. Im going to have to see if I can find some snapple, I cant get it around here I dont believe.
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John Goose-1968 C10 355,9.32-1CR, Vortec Heads ,262 voodoo, 3.73:1 3OTT (HS ride/beater/farm truck) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317684 Grams 53-1953 Chevrolet Belair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4327784 1969 Chevy C10 Shortbed 4.5/6?" Frame off resto http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=548136 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 |
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#16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,437
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Re: Brake bleeding help needed!
I had to replace the MC on my '67 (power discs) a couple of months back. I've been using a vacuum pump to bleed brakes for many years. This time I just could not get the rears. I had my son stop by to do the manual method as was described above. After several cycles and my son making sure the reservoir never went dry, I had to get up and check for myself. I know, I should be more trusting.
There was fluid all around the MC, dripping on the frame and my son said he had not spilled any of it. I had tightened the flare nuts on the MC well enough, or so I thought. I had to give it an extra grunt to stop the leak. The vacuum pump had been sucking air into the line at the loose fitting. You said you replaced all the lines so that is where I would be looking. Pumping the fluid through from the MC may sprout some leaks as mine did. Fastwillie, he says he has speed bleeders on there. Will gravity feed work with those spring loaded, one way valves or will he have to replace them with the original? I've never used those bleeders.
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'67 GMC 2500, 292, 4spd, AC Last edited by RichardJ; 05-20-2011 at 01:44 AM. |
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#17 | |
~Rest In Peace~
Join Date: May 2005
Location: CALIFORNIA NOR CAL
Posts: 9,707
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Re: Brake bleeding help needed!
Quote:
i just make sure the mastercy is full ,once the bottle gets full i know theres no air all fluid
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is it fast ? it has a lighting bolt donut? B___H please, I can remove 90% of your so called "beauty" with a kleenex Last edited by fastwillie 696969; 05-20-2011 at 03:38 AM. |
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#18 |
1969 Custom 30 wrecker
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Pottsville, Pa
Posts: 2,611
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I like doing things myself rather than relying on help so I made a pressurized bleeder system. (just a piece of steel with an air fitting)
![]() Cut a piece of thick plate steel (3/16 or so, I used 1/4 inch myself) that fits on top of the master cylinder to cover both openings. Glue a piece of rubber on the bottom to act as a seal. Install an air fitting above one of the openings (I sealed mine around the threads with JB weld) Then put a small notch in the bottom of the plate so air can go to both chambers of the master cylinder. All that's left is to set it on top of the master cylinder and use 2 C clamps to hold it tightly down. Hook up your air compressor and apply about 20-25lbs of pressure, go under and bleed at each wheel. This takes out the "middle man" in bleeding brakes. It sounds like alot of work but once this tool is made, it lasts a lifetime! ![]() Here's some pics of it in action on my 72 Chevelle:
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Bob 63 Impala 283/PG/3.36 (under restoration) 66 Impala 327/PG/3.36 66 Chevelle SS 409/M22/3.55 69 Chevelle 307/PG/3.08 (future restoration) 69 C10 short stepside 454/TH350/3.73 69 Custom 30 tow truck 350/4 spd/4.10 (resto done, CRUISIN TIME!) 71 Cheyenne 20 fleetside 350/4 spd/4.10 71 Chevelle 6/PG/3.08 72 Chevelle 454/M21/4.10 |
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#19 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Valley Springs, Ca
Posts: 857
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Re: Brake bleeding help needed!
Quote:
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![]() http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=442487 My Picture Gallery http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...0&ppuser=36004 |
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 4,093
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Re: Brake bleeding help needed!
lots of awesome ideas I'm going to have to save this thread
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1969 Chevy c20(Miss Hackjob) |
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#21 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Oceanside California
Posts: 8
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Re: Brake bleeding help needed!
You all are rocket scientists on here!!! I love it. I have been fooling with my brakes for a week now, looking for an air/fluid leak. I can’t wait to get home tomorrow and finally get my brakes
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#22 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Red Deer ab canada
Posts: 1,250
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Re: Brake bleeding help needed!
You don't push the prop valve pin in, just clamp it to keep from pushing out. I bled my Blazer TOO many times before doing this and was getting air from the rears every time ( very little fluid as well).
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1972 factory 2 Wheel Drive Blazer-Sold 1972 K10 4X4-Sold 1971 Chevrolet Cheyenne/10-Sold 1970 Chevrolet C/10-Sold 1968 GMC 4X4-Project 1968 Chevrolet C/10 Pro Street 1970 GMC 3/4 Ton-Parts 1997 2WD 2DR Yukon-Sweet http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=335664 |
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#23 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Mountain Home, AR
Posts: 405
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Re: Brake bleeding help needed!
Quote:
That is AWESOME! They have kit out that are made to do this, but they are expensive. My brakes are fine now, but Im going to make one of these the next time I have to bleed mine. ![]() |
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brake lines, brakes, combo valve |
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