Lowered 72,needs stiffer shocks and springs

[hesaw00]

Hey, looking for some direction.
I bought a 72 c10 several months ago. It was already lowered. Seems to have been properly lowered....drop spindles in front, no evidence of cut springs, etc. and the truck drives great....except that the shock/springs are really soft. Front tires scrub if I hit larger dips at highway speeds. How do I determine how much my truck is lowered? And what length of springs/shocks I should use as replacements? My main objectives are to get improved handling and no bottoming out. My guess is that I have a 3/5 drop. Thanks for any suggestions

[ck5566]

Originally Posted by hesaw00

Hey, looking for some direction.
I bought a 72 c10 several months ago. It was already lowered. Seems to have been properly lowered....drop spindles in front, no evidence of cut springs, etc. and the truck drives great....except that the shock/springs are really soft. Front tires scrub if I hit larger dips at highway speeds. How do I determine how much my truck is lowered? And what length of springs/shocks I should use as replacements? My main objectives are to get improved handling and no bottoming out. My guess is that I have a 3/5 drop. Thanks for any suggestions

Welcome to the Site. Stiffer shocks will do you better (your choice) & slow down LOL. Ask last owner what he did too lower it, if that isn't possible keep looking/searching on this site for what others have used or look & compare what others trucks look like with what they used to lower there's and ask them. For the usage of performance parts I would use (POL) Performance On Line. Your suspected 3/5 drop should show a C-notch over the rear end for a 5" drop, 4" drop doesn't need a C-notch. POL has some Complete Suspension Kits. Good luck in your quest.

[Ekliptix]

I'd also check your front tire width if they're scrubbing over bumps. I have the ECE 4.5/6 kit and the same thing happens with my front tires (275/60/15). I think it's partially due to the poor shocks that come with the ECE kit, so I plan to upgrade them to help, or get a more narrow tire up front.

Btw, I'm using a 6" lowering spring in the rear, have no c-notch and have never had an issue in the back.

[GASoline71]

275 tire is a pretty wide tire in the front of a lowered truck.

Gary

[ck5566]

Originally Posted by Ekliptix

I'd also check your front tire width if they're scrubbing over bumps. I have the ECE 4.5/6 kit and the same thing happens with my front tires (275/60/15). I think it's partially due to the poor shocks that come with the ECE kit, so I plan to upgrade them to help, or get a more narrow tire up front.

Btw, I'm using a 6" lowering spring in the rear, have no c-notch and have never had an issue in the back.

Then you must be ridding on the Rear Axle Bumper stops all the time. C-notching is used when lowering 5" and more. Whats your Trucks specks, year, leafs or trailing arms ect?

[Ekliptix]

Originally Posted by ck5566

Then you must be ridding on the Rear Axle Bumper stops all the time. C-notching is used when lowering 5" and more. Whats your Trucks specks, year, leafs or trailing arms ect?

There are lots of people on here in the same situation as me with no issues. the 5" drop = required c-notch is not a hard and fast rule. There is clearance between the rear bump stops and the axle, although not much. Still, I've never heard or felt anything from the rear over 5000 miles that makes me think anything is touching back there. 1972, shortbox, coils, stock trailing arms. Sorry to hijack the thread.

[outfield]

The KYB Monomax shocks are a good choice. High Pressure gas shocks will firm up the ride well.

You can always measure the distance from the upper shock mount hole, to the lower shock mount hole, center to center, and compare this length with the extended and collapsed length of the shocks they show for your truck. You should be midway in the travel of the shocks for the proper length.

[hesaw00]

Originally Posted by outfield

The KYB Monomax shocks are a good choice. High Pressure gas shocks will firm up the ride well.

You can always measure the distance from the upper shock mount hole, to the lower shock mount hole, center to center, and compare this length with the extended and collapsed length of the shocks they show for your truck. You should be midway in the travel of the shocks for the proper length.

Posted via Mobile Device

[raggedjim]

I have a 6" drop, no c-notch... no problems.

[hesaw00]

Thanks for the replies. I will definitely measures shock length and see what matches up.
My truck is definitely not c-notched. It floats like an old Cadillac out on the road...like the shocks are super soft.

I was thinking about trying to use coilovers for more adjustability and control, but again, I can't seem to get clear direction on what would fit.

I'll try to upload a picture of my stance. I'm running 17" wheels and I think I have 275 on back and little smaller in front.

Thanks again for the feedback.
Posted via Mobile Device

[raggedjim]

Good shocks will make a difference. I should clarify my drop, it is a 4" spring and 2" drop block. Some manufactures springs are "softer" than others. Mine are Eibach's.

Rg

[67ChevyRedneck]

Pics of truck? I'm guessing your wheel offset is more towards the fender.

I had the same issue with my drop, so I switched the front from an 8" wheel to a 7". This was on a 4/6 drop. Mine only rubbed in hard turns, which really makes me wonder what wheels/tires you have. You may have a really all tire. Mine are around 28".

I've thrown this truck into corners in an autocross event with zero rub.

15x8 with 4.5" offset:



15x7 with 4.5" offset:

[YBNORML]

Something else to think about is rear shock relocators. When you lower the rear, it causes the shock to basically lay down. Basically rendering them useless. It may not solve all your problems but will definately help.

[Ekliptix]

Here's a good thread on shock discussion for lowered trucks too: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=711463

[leftybass209]

Originally Posted by ck5566

Then you must be ridding on the Rear Axle Bumper stops all the time. C-notching is used when lowering 5" and more. Whats your Trucks specks, year, leafs or trailing arms ect?

There's a lot of mystery when it comes to C notches and thanks to the wealth of information here, there is no set answer as far as amount of drop vs needing a notch.

It's more based on the particular vehicle. I'm at 4.5" in the rear on coils, and I can go 6" easy, with room left over, no notch. Other people bottom out on bump stops at 5".

OP, start with shocks because they're easiest and need to be done regardless. If those don't fit the bill, then consider springs. Early Classic is by far the best company I've dealt with for suspension components. They go out of their way to make sure you're satisfied. Even overnight delivered backorder shock mounts at no charge when I picked up a drop kit at their store.

[YBNORML]

Originally Posted by leftybass209

There's a lot of mystery when it comes to C notches and thanks to the wealth of information here, there is no set answer as far as amount of drop vs needing a notch.

It's more based on the particular vehicle. I'm at 4.5" in the rear on coils, and I can go 6" easy, with room left over, no notch. Other people bottom out on bump stops at 5".

OP, start with shocks because they're easiest and need to be done regardless. If those don't fit the bill, then consider springs. Early Classic is by far the best company I've dealt with for suspension components. They go out of their way to make sure you're satisfied. Even overnight delivered backorder shock mounts at no charge when I picked up a drop kit at their store.

I couldn't agree more!!!! Early Classic Enterprises gets all my money when it comes to static drop parts, and anything else that they carry. Stan is an absolute pleasure to deal with, especially in today's day and age.

[fast&low]

hotchkis has the best springs for our trucks hands down IMO & as far as I know the only Co that offer's 6"rear springs.
The price is a bit more but put them side by side to any other drop spring & you'll see why.
But I do agree start with a good pair of shocks (drop shocks)
You would be surprised how many people lower their car/truck & leave the OE shocks.
Also do you have shock relocators? If not get you some.
Good luck

[Overdriven]

Originally Posted by hesaw00

I was thinking about trying to use coilovers for more adjustability and control, but again, I can't seem to get clear direction on what would fit.

Coilovers are going to be a custom thing. You'll have to determine mounting points, most likely fabricating your own. Then measure the length they need to be at ride height, fully extended and compressed. Get those and a manufacturer can help you out with the rest.

Or you can go with a kit from someone like NoLimit, Ridetech, etc. Those have everything already figured out and generally just bolt or weld in. Of course you'll be paying more for the convenience.