Hello everyone!!

[Israel Perez]

I'm new to this page and don't really know how to use it, any help will be really appreciated.
I just bought a 67 c10 and I want to do the front disc conversion, I've been reading a lot here and I'm thinking on using the parts off a 72, my question is, is that a good option? or should I go with a newer year? maybe like an 80 to 85? I know I have to change ball joints and steering links etc etc, there's a 72 at a local junk yard with all the front suspension still on it, but they also have lots of newer trucks, I'm going this Sunday to get the parts, just want an opinion on which parts to get and from which year, I'm asking this because the parts from the 72 are already over 40 years old, you know what I mean?

[airdale94]

Welcome! Here's a link to a FAQ on the subject. I did this on mine and used 75 parts. On the C20's it moves the front wheels out about 1 1/2". You just have to read up on it. I would say the 72 would be best but you may have to buy new parts, calipers, hoses, rotors, etc.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...68&postcount=4

[Israel Perez]

Thanks!! I'm going to the junk yard this Sunday, another question, should I get the control arms too? Or should I just replace the ball joints on my control arms with new ones from a 72?

[airdale94]

You can use your upper control arms with new balljoints for disc. But you will need the lower control arms from the 72. The disc lowers have different turn stops for the spindle than the drum.

[Israel Perez]

Ohh ok cool, I'll get the lower ones then, thanks again.

[midniteblues]

you may wanna grab the prop valve and mc.
also the brake lines were routed differntly on a disc truck.
if your gonna do the disc from a 72 more than likely it will be a 5 lug(might wanna grab the rims also)
so unless you buy the 6 lug conversion kits that are avail.
the 72 rear axle may be of intrest too you also

[Israel Perez]

I got new calipers and master cylinder for a 72, I got em for really cheap, under 50 bucks for all 3

[Israel Perez]

And yes, I'm getting the prop valve and the lines for the front

[midniteblues]

sourcing parts is half the fun.till it gets expensive

[Israel Perez]

I'll be getting there really soon lol

[Hawghauler]

I just did this to my '67, I bought the frame from the engine mounts forward and got the power steering, and all the steering linkage, control arms, spindles, sway bar, etc... and the rearend. I recommend getting it all if you can. You may not use it all, but the steering ball joints are different from the
'67 to the '72, ball joints should just be replaced, discs are heavier duty on the '70's through early '80's, then thin out in the later '80's. If you use the '72 spindles, you are converting to 5-lug, which is a popular conversion, But you may want to get the rearend as well to complete the conversion. I got the 3:08.1 rearend so highways aren't as expensive to drive on. This can all be done fairly cheaply doing a '72 conversion, you will probably want to get new calipers, brake hoses, and lines, M/C-w/prop valve, and new pads. I added a brake booster, as I didn't have power brakes to begin with.

Well worth doing in any case, as my truck passes old ladies now on the freeway, stops nearly on a dime compared to before, and has some snappy rally wheels to boot.

Most likely you have coil spring rear end, make sure before you buy. Leaf springs are on the GMC's, or special order chevy's. The front suspensions are all interchangeable. If you're planning to lower it more than a few inches up front, you'd probably be better off getting the drop spindles new. But if only a few inches, stock will work fine.
It's only money after all. Good luck,
Curtis

[Israel Perez]

I want to buy the drop spindle kit from cpp, but I don't have 600 bucks right now, I'm gonna use used parts from that 72 for now, and later in the future I may get the kit, it runs but I haven't driven it, all the tie rods, pit man arm etc are messed up, I just wanna fix that for now and the disc brakes to make it drivable for now, I'm on a budget here so everything will be little by little, thanks to all for your help

[Israel Perez]

Ok I have another problem now, I changed all the parts for the disc brake conversion, I got the booster and lines and everything else, but now idk why there's no pressure to the rear brakes, the first master cyl was defective so I order another one, now I have pressure to the rear from the master and prop valve, I checked all likes for restrictions and everything seems ok, I even bypassed the prop valve and still not enough pressure to the rear brakes, can someone please help me? I'm going crazy, I think I'm gonna sell this truck better, it's taking too much of my time, and I'm barely starting lol

[BlackedOut67shorty]

Do you have a sloppy brake pedal, it might not be pushing all the way, and is the master cylinder for a half ton or 3/4 ton, 3/4 ton masters are routed backwards compared to half tons.

[R.L.]

Welcome to the forums, while your gathering parts look in to a sway bar; there cheap and fairly easy to install and will upgrade the handling of that truck like night and day.

[gipper]

Mr. Perez, you did not happen to live in Michigan in the 60's or 70's did you?

[Israel Perez]

I got the master cyl for a 71 gmc 1500, I'm gonna open the prop valve, maybe an o ring is bad?
@ gipper, no I've always live in Los Angeles

[alsriv2]

Did you completely bleed (bench bleed) the master cylinder before you installed it in your truck? The process is easy to do and easy to screw up if not paying attention to the air bubbles.
I recently messed up my bench bleed on my new master cylinder and I spent hours puzzled why my rear brakes were not bleeding. For me it was caused by poor fitting plastic threaded nipples used in the bench B process. The nipples were allowing air to be sucked into the reservoir and I had to replace the cheap plastic ones with steel ones.
2nd BB with non-leaking lines solved the problem completely.

[Israel Perez]

Ok so I put another prop valve and now the brakes work fine, I opened both and they were different from the inside, not brakes r good with the other prop valve thanks everyone for your help