Wheels NOT Centered after drop

[angelobackwards]

Just finished up a 3/5 drop (springs) on the 64. Used POL parts. After doing the drop it pushed the rear wheels to the back half of the wheel wells. Has anyone else had this problem? If so what’s the solution - shorter drive shaft, moving suspension forward? I know they make new control arms up front to center the wheels as this was a factory thing but the rear is pretty drastic after the drop. Truck rides fine just don’t look right.

I’ll try post some more pics on my IG - angelobackwards

[kdad]

Several thoughts cross the mind!

Was the wheel originally centered in the wheel well opening?

Was anything else changed during the spring change?

Have you thought about putting the original springs back in to check it out and make sure it was all centered before the change?

You would think that lowering the vehicle with a spring change should not move the axle backwards.
The arc that the wheel and axle travel in should not be that great.

[SkinnyG]

It would move the axle backwards if the trailing arms were angled down from the frame. As the arms become more horizontal, the axle moves back.

With leaf springs, because the front spring eye is lower than the rear, flip kits move the axle forward.

On shortbox stepside beds, the rear wheel always appears a bit too far back. On the long beds, it always appears a bit too far forward (I think the fender placements are off).

[coolfool_2]

I lowered my 61 5 inches in the rear and while i dont think the rear ends were ever centered perfectly in the wheel well, yours does look farther back than normal.

[angelobackwards]

Originally Posted by kdad

Several thoughts cross the mind!

Was the wheel originally centered in the wheel well opening?

Was anything else changed during the spring change?

Have you thought about putting the original springs back in to check it out and make sure it was all centered before the change?

You would think that lowering the vehicle with a spring change should not move the axle backwards.
The arc that the wheel and axle travel in should not be that great.

Nothing else changed outside of springs/shocks/ and c notch. U bolts were unbolted for about 2 seconds to put on the shock relocators but axle never moved. I know it makes sense for the axle to move backwards when lowering but what is the fix? Shortening the drive line wouldn’t move the axle forward. Not sure if I have to move the whole suspension forward or if after market trailing arms would fix the problem? Plan on going with another 2” block in the rear for a total drop of 7”.

[Johns 66]

Originally Posted by angelobackwards

Nothing else changed outside of springs/shocks/ and c notch. U bolts were unbolted for about 2 seconds to put on the shock relocators but axle never moved. I know it makes sense for the axle to move backwards when lowering but what is the fix? Shortening the drive line wouldn’t move the axle forward. Not sure if I have to move the whole suspension forward or if after market trailing arms would fix the problem? Plan on going with another 2” block in the rear for a total drop of 7”.

There is a solution but its a PAIN.....You have basically 2 choices.

1 you can cut the trailing arms and shorten then and the drive shaft.....NOT SUGGESTED unless once you weld them back together then box them for strength.

The second option is to move the cross member that the trailing arms bolt to...You will have to take all the rivets out.....get the rear end centered, drill holes and bolt to the frame....

there is one other option...QA1 Makes a rear suspension that is adjustable for our trucks and has threaded joints to be able to perfectly center the rear wheels...but its EXPENSIVE

[wichita]

Originally Posted by Johns 66

There is a solution but its a PAIN.....You have basically 2 choices.

1 you can cut the trailing arms and shorten then and the drive shaft.....NOT SUGGESTED unless once you weld them back together then box them for strength.

The second option is to move the cross member that the trailing arms bolt to...You will have to take all the rivets out.....get the rear end centered, drill holes and bolt to the frame....

there is one other option...QA1 Makes a rear suspension that is adjustable for our trucks and has threaded joints to be able to perfectly center the rear wheels...but its EXPENSIVE

No Limit also makes a rear trailing arm kit that is adjustable also.

[wichita]

Originally Posted by angelobackwards

Just finished up a 3/5 drop (springs) on the 64. Used POL parts. After doing the drop it pushed the rear wheels to the back half of the wheel wells. Has anyone else had this problem? If so what’s the solution - shorter drive shaft, moving suspension forward? I know they make new control arms up front to center the wheels as this was a factory thing but the rear is pretty drastic after the drop. Truck rides fine just don’t look right.

I’ll try post some more pics on my IG - angelobackwards

Yeah the step side trucks tend to be to far back in the wheel well and the fleet sides are to far forward. the front wheels are also to far back just not as bad unless you use larger rims its more noticeable.

[PGSigns]

Put a jack under the rear bumper and raise the truck up some and see how far it moves forward. A 5" drop does not really move the rear back a lot. The shape of the rear fenders has a lot to do with the appearance of moving back as the tire gets closer to the sloping rear of the fender it just looks further back. If it was a straighter shape like the front you really would not notice it.
Jimmy

[Mack B]

Originally Posted by angelobackwards

Plan on going with another 2” block in the rear for a total drop of 7”.

That 2" block will push the rear forward some due to the angle of the arms where the axle sits, I'm not sure how drastic that will be. Note that with 15" wheels the arms will be below scrub line in the event of a flat tire with those blocks.

I'd measure wheel base center to center and see how close it is to the 115" stock wheelbase. I can't tell from the pictures but I would think the bed is slid a bit to far forward, there is a sizable gap between the two on stepsides. The architecture of the fleet side hides that gap and makes it appear tighter.

[angelobackwards]

So after looking through some photos it looks like the wheels may have been set back a little before we even dropped it. Let me know what you guys think? Also talked to POL about it. They said the spring may have been put in upside down I guess. Matched them to the originals in terms of what looked like the top of the spring and bottom. Anyways here a before what do you guys think. Hope I’m not having to move the x member forward but if that’s it then so be it.

[angelobackwards]

Originally Posted by Mack B

That 2" block will push the rear forward some due to the angle of the arms where the axle sits, I'm not sure how drastic that will be. Note that with 15" wheels the arms will be below scrub line in the event of a flat tire with those blocks.

I'd measure wheel base center to center and see how close it is to the 115" stock wheelbase. I can't tell from the pictures but I would think the bed is slid a bit to far forward, there is a sizable gap between the two on stepsides. The architecture of the fleet side hides that gap and makes it appear tighter.

That was my next thing measure wheelbase see where we’re at. I know the front wheels were always centered centered from the factory, that’s why many use aftermarket to move them forward an inch. But the bet sat right back into its original mounting holes. All 6 bolts lined up nicely.

[Captainfab]

The only way to move the rear wheels forward is to either move the trailing arm crossmember forward, or shorten the trailing arms. Both are quite a bit of work. The springs and driveshaft have absolutely nothing to do with it. Although once the wheels and differential are moved forward the driveshaft will need to be shortened.

[angelobackwards]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The only way to move the rear wheels forward is to either move the trailing arm crossmember forward, or shorten the trailing arms. Both are quite a bit of work. The springs and driveshaft have absolutely nothing to do with it. Although once the wheels and differential are moved forward the driveshaft will need to be shortened.

Yeah I think moving the crossmember forward is more in my realm of my can do. If we end up going that route may just upgrade to tubular while we’re in the process. My dad is supposed to shoot me some pics of the underneath once he gets it on the life. I live in Hawaii now so I work on it when I go back up to NM to visit. Figure once we’re actually done working on it I’ll ship it down.

[angelobackwards]

Also here are a few pics of the springs installed. Let me know if you think they’re upside down or backwards or whatever they said the issue may be.

[nsb29]

Right side up or upside down or sideways will not change anything as the captain said only thing that changes the position of the wheels is the trailing arms or the crossmember

[SkinnyG]

You could potentially move the fenders.

[angelobackwards]

Originally Posted by nsb29

Right side up or upside down or sideways will not change anything as the captain said only thing that changes the position of the wheels is the trailing arms or the crossmember

Yeah I know just thinking that’s what POL rep had suggested. I would like to eventually swap to tubular arms and what not so I could always move everything then but it’s just odd that I am the only one who has had such a drastic change in wheel base after lowering. Unless, maybe it was originally a Fleetside that has been swapped to a stepper? Not sure if the Fleetside had the wheel wells a little further back than step sides?

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by angelobackwards

... Not sure if the Fleetside had the wheel wells a little further back than step sides?

No.

[nsb29]

If it was me I would take a couple inches out of my trailing arms and of course the driveshaft to match but then you’re going to run into another issue your nachos are in the wrong place

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by nsb29

If it was me I would take a couple inches out of my trailing arms and of course the driveshaft to match but then you’re going to run into another issue your nachos are in the wrong place

Moving anything suspension wise will alter other things like the above mentioned c-notch placement. Shift the bed or the bed-sides on the bed to get the look you seek.

[slimjim66]

was this truck born a longbox? i saw a guy at a show once who's wheels were like that, and they just miscalculated the short box conversion length.

[angelobackwards]

Originally Posted by slimjim66

was this truck born a longbox? i saw a guy at a show once who's wheels were like that, and they just miscalculated the short box conversion length.

As far as I know is original short box. Frame doesn’t have any fish plates/boxing. Didn’t see any scars from being under the knife and right behind the cab looks untouched.

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Moving anything suspension wise will alter other things like the above mentioned c-notch placement. Shift the bed or the bed-sides on the bed to get the look you seek.

I guess that is an option as well. Will have to toy with it. Appreciate all the input and ideas.

[COCONUTS]

Originally Posted by angelobackwards

So after looking through some photos it looks like the wheels may have been set back a little before we even dropped it. Let me know what you guys think? Also talked to POL about it. They said the spring may have been put in upside down I guess. Matched them to the originals in terms of what looked like the top of the spring and bottom. Anyways here a before what do you guys think. Hope I’m not having to move the x member forward but if that’s it then so be it.

I purchased all new stock stock suspension from POL for my 66 stepside and my first question to them was which way the rear coil springs went in and they replied it was “just a matter of preference”. Funny they would say it may have something to do with the springs?..... I matched mine like the originals came out, but didn’t lower the truck like you. They are centered on the retainer plates, so how could that cause them to move? That was another question and concern that a friend asked me when I was going to do a 3/5 drop originally. I wouldn’t have even thought about it if my buddy hadn’t brought it up. I did look at moving the x member to see what was involved and think that’s your simplest way out. I replaced all the coils, shocks, steering components, ball joints, and a new driver side lower control arm without anything moving. I did have to purchase POL adjustable panhard bar as mine was bent enough to to prevent the centering of the rear end between my fenders. Looking at mine it isn’t centered and favors the rear by at least 1”

Nice looking truck...I wish my underneath was clean like yours.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by COCONUTS

I purchased all new stock stock suspension from POL for my 66 stepside and my first question to them was which way the rear coil springs went in and they replied it was “just a matter of preference”. Funny they would say it may have something to do with the springs?..... I matched mine like the originals came out, but didn’t lower the truck like you. They are centered on the retainer plates, so how could that cause them to move? That was another question and concern that a friend asked me when I was going to do a 3/5 drop originally. I wouldn’t have even thought about it if my buddy hadn’t brought it up. I did look at moving the x member to see what was involved and think that’s your simplest way out. I replaced all the coils, shocks, steering components, ball joints, and a new driver side lower control arm without anything moving. I did have to purchase POL adjustable panhard bar as mine was bent enough to to prevent the centering of the rear end between my fenders. Looking at mine it isn’t centered and favors the rear by at least 1”

Nice looking truck...I wish my underneath was clean like yours.

For you & angelobackwards....

Is the rear end centered in the c-notch opening? It should be.

Based on the mechanical links:
*Truck arm length & mounting points
*Springs mounting points (between frame & T/A)
*Shock mounting points (between x-member & lower T/A bracket)

Things have to align to be able to fasten. The axle swinging closer toward the frame is going to shift it slightly but not by much or those mechanical attachment points wouldn't allow moving forward w/o a serious fight.

I would work on shifting the bed assembly as needed for your visual satisfaction & be done.