I'm COLD. NEED HEAT. GOING MAD

[Figuarus]

Guys, I'm at my wit's end.

I originally had issues with my cab heater not working. I was advised to change the thermostat in order to have more heat output from the heater core, but that resulted in my truck overheating. I've changed parts out, and have done what I can, and just can't figure out why the hell I can't get any decent amount of heat out of my truck.

I was originally running a 180 deg thermostat when I first brought it home during the spring. Eventually, I swapped it out to a 195 thermostat, and while I did get more heat out of the core, It also caused me to run too hot for my taste. eventually, my truck overheated, and I pulled that one. I went back to a 180 degree "balanced" thermostat made through Mr. Gasket. It runs cooler than the 195, but now everytime I run the fan, even on medium, the air temp coming out of the heater box is only about 10 degrees warmer than the ambient air temp.

This morning it was about 20*F...

I have replaced the blower motor, the resistor (I was having speed control issues, but it was actually the motor)and back flushed the core. I've sealed the cab as best I can, and used foil tape on the plenum to seal any air leaks. my kick panel vents have been removed and sheet metal covers with foil tape have been put in their place. All of my holes in the firewall are taped over, so I'm not getting much draft from the engine bay.

I'm almost thinking about getting a new core, but all I can find are aluminum cores. Mine is still the factory Harrison copper core.

I'm thinking about trying two things. One, I run CLR through the core, on the off chance that there is some king of flow restriction (doubtful, since I saw good flow out of the core), and two, modify the airbox to pull hot air from around my headers to heat the cab.

Thoughts?

[blown240]

Another thought is one of those 12v heaters that plug into the cigarette lighter. They can be had cheap and put out a ton of warm air.

[Figuarus]

I thought about that, but have had nothing but bad luck with them.

I was also trying to figure out a way to recirculate the cab air through the heater box, and block off the fresh air in the cowl...

[chevy_mike]

How are the hoses hooked to the engine? If you have those wrong, you will get very little flow through the heater core.

Also, have you checked with a IR temp meter that your whole heater core is getting hot? You might be getting good flow but it's only flowing through one row of the core, which will not get you much heat, if any.

[jtrichard]

hoses hooked wrong or plugged core i would bet...... pics of how the hoses are ran would help

[Figuarus]

there are two sizes, one is 3/4, the other 5/8. The 3/4 connects to the water pump, the 5/8 to the manifold.

[Maddoxdb]

Originally Posted by Figuarus

there are two sizes, one is 3/4, the other 5/8. The 3/4 connects to the water pump, the 5/8 to the manifold.

That's how mines hooked up. I just got mine running a couple days ago. I'm running a 195 and it's blowing hot. If you're having overheating problems with the 195 in 20 degree weather I'm wondering how well your radiator is flowing? Have you had it flushed?

[Figuarus]

I flushed the new radiator when i got it, it flowed very well. right now the temp gauge is just to the right of the gap when the heater is off. When I turn on the heater, it drops to just above the line above "C"

[frankslagoon]

I just have the econo heater with a low temp thermo, I forget if its 165 or 175 and at 20 degrees I'm still pretty toasty. must be a circulation issue ?

[Figuarus]

I too have the econo heater. push pull for heat, twist for fan speed, right?

Well, I guess I better get both the radiator and the core cleaned up again.

would it be safe to run CLR through it and not have any damage to the rubber hoses?

[Micmac]

I'd pull em and have a radiator shop boil em out. I'm real impressed with Frankslagoon getting the results he is in Alaska with the Econo. That's what mine has and here in the Blue Ridge when it's below 20 it takes awhile to heat up.

[Figuarus]

I'll ask around to see what it'll cost. The new aluminum core would run me about 30-40 bucks. The radiator would definitely be worth doing if it's under 50 bucks.

I'll give that a try and report back.

[ACK]

Last winter I was freezing my buns off, too, so I installed a 195 thermostat and it made no difference. Over the summer I put in a new heater core and the truck is so much warmer now on those cold PA mornings.

[Figuarus]

screw it. I'm gonna change the core. it's gonna cost me about the same to have it boiled out. at least I can hold onto the copper one and try the CLR method.

[KJSR]

You are welcome to bring it out to the Tooele area and we can play with it. Sometimes a second set of eyes is priceless.

[newbe351]

Originally Posted by Figuarus

I've sealed the cab as best I can, and used foil tape on the plenum to seal any air leaks. my kick panel vents have been removed and sheet metal covers with foil tape have been put in their place. All of my holes in the firewall are taped over, so I'm not getting much draft from the engine bay.

Thoughts?

You may have plugged too many holes. These aren't flow-through cabs. As the fan tries to push air into the cab, the existing air has to go somewhere. Crack a window and see what happens. I have econo air and 180 thermostat, everything works great with the window down a quarter or half inch.......

[Figuarus]

Originally Posted by KJSR

You are welcome to bring it out to the Tooele area and we can play with it. Sometimes a second set of eyes is priceless.

Hell yes. I work until 3 tomorrow

[frankslagoon]

Originally Posted by Micmac

I'd pull em and have a radiator shop boil em out. I'm real impressed with Frankslagoon getting the results he is in Alaska with the Econo. That's what mine has and here in the Blue Ridge when it's below 20 it takes awhile to heat up.

Well I didn't say it was perfect hee hee, but don't need a coat and I do need to crack a wing cuase I'm sucken the moist cab air back in the heater. I did spring for a new heater core when I put it together. I've had lots of trouble tryen to use old ones.

[trevota]

are you sure the blend door is moving? Im not 100% sure how these heaters work, but if there is something that allows you to choose hot or cold air in the cab, i would check that.

Could also be an air lock or not enough coolant. been a while since i looked at my truck but i recall the heater hoses being pretty high up, close to the top of rad.

also if your truck over heats when it shouldnt ( like with a 195 t stat in 20 deg weather), then i would check for a possible water pump problem, or i have seen bad head gaskets/ cracked heads cause no cab heat and over heating. The cooling system pressurizes and that can restrict flow. That usually also has other sytpoms like leaks etc

My 65 with basic heater is rarely off of first or second fan speed cause the cab is so hot

[Figuarus]

I have the econo air option. Pull the knob for heat, and twist the same knob for fan speed control. I can frel warm air, but it doesnt warm the cab enough.

I bled the air out of the system, and checked the coolant level.

[donthekawguy]

There is a fresh air vent that might be stuck open. The control for it is on the drivers side top of the heater box. Try messing with that.

[Micmac]

Originally Posted by KJSR

You are welcome to bring it out to the Tooele area and we can play with it. Sometimes a second set of eyes is priceless.

You guys live in a beautiful area.. I went trout fishing up in Roosevelt, Utah twice, once in the 1990's, and again in 2012.

[KJSR]

Tomorrow would be better for me........todays kind of booked. Or next Fri-Sun works too. I will PM you my #

[KJSR]

Originally Posted by Micmac

You guys live in a beautiful area.. I went trout fishing up in Roosevelt, Utah twice, once in the 1990's, and again in 2012.

Thanks man. I have had the best fishing of my life living up here! I guess that's to be expected growing up in SoCal.

[Figuarus]

The basic air box does not have a controllable flap to direct air. The only heat on/off is a flap in the plenum that closes and doesn't allow heat to be directed into the cab. The true heat on/off option heaters had a valve inline with the 5/8ths hose and had a cable that opened and closed it.

I'm going to swap out the core later today, and if it's not a significant improvement, I will end up modifying the box to allow air to be pulled in from around the passenger side exhaust manifold.

All that waste heat has to be good for SOMETHING, right?
KJSR, I will call you up sometime this next week, or next weekend.

thanks for the offer!