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Old 12-29-2012, 09:15 PM   #1
towbar
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Drip Rail calking re-do

My drip rail calking is cracked, peeling and falling out, needing to be redone. I'm sure this is where the inner windshield/cab structure rust steems from so I'm hoping to stop it before it starts. Any suggestions on sealer to use or procedure you guys have had success with in cleaning, sealing, finishing the project?

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Old 12-29-2012, 09:31 PM   #2
M.Lowrie
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Re: Drip Rail calking re-do

3M Drip Chek
http://3mcollision.com/products/seal...ler-08531.html
It can be aggravating to work with (it's like trying to spread chewing gum), but it levels nice. It does shrink quite a bit though so I would leave plenty of time before priming/painting. Used lacquer thinner on my finger to spread as you would for applying seam sealer.
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Old 12-29-2012, 10:15 PM   #3
67swb72klb
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Re: Drip Rail calking re-do

i use 3m ultrapro urethane #08361 it flows out good and stays flexible i did the inside of my box 15-18 years ago it is still holding out perfect
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Old 12-29-2012, 10:17 PM   #4
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Re: Drip Rail calking re-do

3m makes a self leveling seam sealer, i've used it on quite a few projects and have seen no issues with it
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Old 12-29-2012, 10:32 PM   #5
towbar
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Re: Drip Rail calking re-do

Quote:
Originally Posted by 67swb72klb View Post
i use 3m ultrapro urethane #08361 it flows out good and stays flexible i did the inside of my box 15-18 years ago it is still holding out perfect
any issues withn shrinking on this stuff? what color does it come in or does it come in different colors (white, black, grey)??
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Old 12-29-2012, 11:07 PM   #6
67swb72klb
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Re: Drip Rail calking re-do

i havent had any problems with it at all it comes in grey or white only thing is i think it only comes in what they call a foil pack and you need a special gun (3m is kinda like that)
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Old 12-29-2012, 11:09 PM   #7
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Re: Drip Rail calking re-do

Not sure what 3M seam sealer I used,but it's the kind that stays pliable. I had an issue with paint flaking due to using a primer I thought was a sanding sealer that pint goes straight onto. When I went to re-do it I saw that the 3M stuff had pulled away from the drip rail edge and was allowing water in and keeping it there! Glad I had the paint issue and caught it. This time I used what my paint supply shop offered and am very confident and happy now. It's what automakers use.

www.dominionsureseal.com

Or,scroll down here. I used the first one (red tube) and it's paintable in 30 minutes. Not sire all the differences...kinda complicated with all the choices:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.dmQ&cad=rja
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Last edited by special-K; 12-29-2012 at 11:20 PM.
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