C-Notching on a completed truck w/bed

[Rokcrln]

C-Notching a completed truck w/bed
By
Lewis Fabrication Design Inc.

I had a fellow board member bring me his 2wd blazer today for a C-notch install. This is the first one I have done with a bed installed at the time of Notching so I thought I would share with those who ask if it can be done. The answer is yes as long as you follow a few simple steps. This truck was notched and then patched in a past life and boy was it a bad job!

First thing is to park the truck on a level surface (does not need to be perfect) and support it with 4 jack stands. Two in front of the notch and two at the rear of the frame. You want to try and get as even weight on all for jack stands to help keep the frame from sagging or moving. I added shims to the rear stands to get the weight about the same. Next remove the tires and with the axel still jacked up (to ride height) mark the center line of the axel on the frame. Then un bolt the shocks and springs and lower the axel out of your way but make sure you do not pull on the brake line. You can only notch up about 3" because any more than that and your diff will hit the floor so why bother. I set this one so with 1/2" bump stops it should stay just off the floor board. Next mark out the notch to be made in the frame and make your notch is wide enough so the axle has plenty of room to clear everything. This notch is wider then I like but I had to do this because of the P/O hack job.

Now before you cut anything you will need to move some things around and protect then. First is the wiring along the drivers side of the frame, I just pulled th ewires up over the frame and used a piece of wire to hold them their. Next are the fuel lines (blazers and burbs) on the passenger side. I just pushed them up slightly bending them tward the top of the frame then used a small piece of a welding blanket to protect them.

Now that you have checked everything and you are sure things are out of the way it is time to cut the notch in the frame. I used a plasma cutting but I have done it in the past with a jig saw, grinder,tortch and so on. Cut it a little small and test fit you notch and trim as needed. I made my own notch out of 1/4" plate and broke it to the shape I wanted but I have seen guys use pipe of square tube with the bottom cut off. You can also buy a bolt in Notch and then no welding is needed unless you want to add some anyways.

Sorry no pic of just the notch cut out but you get the idea. I then welded the notch plate in and then added a plate (notice that theends are not square) to the out side of the frame to give it some more strength. This plate (or a bolt in kit) you do not want to weld 100% all the way around. Do 1" then skip 1" and so on. I do weld 100% around the notch plate it self.

After this is all done on both sides and you have checked all your welds it is time to prime and paint. Then re-install your items that you un hooked and you are ready to put the tires back on and lower it down. Before you go for a drive, slide back under and double check everything for clearance then test drive!

It is really a simple install to do if you have the needed tool and this one took about 6hrs from start to finish and that included about 1hr to remove all the bolts from the old notch patch job. On a bare frame (no bed) with a bolt in notch kit it takes about 3hrs for cutting, drilling and welding (if you want to weld it).

I have included a link to a bolt in Notch I did on a bare frame for another 2wd blazer that may give you more pics to look at.http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=195566

Have fun and I hope this helps a few guys out their.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

A few more pics.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[big blue 72]

Man, you do Awesome work!!!!!!!!!!!

[Canadian694x4]

Dude! Great Work!

[JameslovesJammie]

You know,

Your work always impresses me. Thanks for sharing the pics!