What sealant to use on differential housing?

[Sammy]

Are you suppose to use a gasket under the cover? can you get by without a gasket? I have 1 bolt at the 1 o' clock that has been snapped off but this cover shouldn't be leaking this bad. And didn't till just this past week. Last time I used the black High Temp RTV in a tube. Let it set for a while then watched it ozz as I snugged up the bolts. Maybe I refilled the differential too soon as should have waited till the next day? I didn't mind it staying moist but now it's growing into a huge mess on the garage floor.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

The rtv is pretty standard for that cover. The factories do it that way on a lot of vehicles. Clean both surfaces & apply a thin coat. You don't need all that oozing. Go ahead & put it together right away & Waite about 1-2 hours before filling it.

[beautimus]

thats odd to see it leak at the top like that. are you sure its not coming from the vent hose?

[cdowns]

lots of leaks are caused by overtightening the bolts and distorting the boltholes in the cover and preventing a good flat surface

[Schralper]

I just did mine w/ Ultra Grey permatex, though I've used black w/o a problem.
No gaskets required, even w/ synthetic oils.
You sure you don't have a crack in the cover? brake fluid?
a leak above axle line seems unlikely from lack of gasket sealant

[Rollie396]

before I replace the cover I lay it on the bench and gently tap the bolt hole area flat again with a small ball peen.I also use black rtv.

[vectorit]

First make sure that cover isn't all distorted from over tightening the bolts. (Dead give away is that you already have a snapped bolt).

Get a new gasket.
Drill out that busted bolt. (shouldn't be to hard to get out).

My personal choice for applications like this, is a combination of two sealers.
1. Gasgacinch for the bolt threads.
2. Permatex Aviation sealer for the gasket surfaces.
(Never mind the booing and hissing you hear)

I apply the Aviation sealer to one side of the gasket, then stick it to the mating surface it goes on. Let it tack up firm (4 or 5 minutes).

Then brush on Aviation sealer liberally to the side that meets the cover.

Brush on more Aviation sealer liberally to the covers gasket surface as well.

Apply the cover gently to the gasket, then finger tight 4 bolts in the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions enough to see the sealer mix.

Now, while you are wait for this to set up.
Take either the Aviation sealer, or the Gasgacinch and brush sealer to the threads of the CLEAN bolt threads. Just enough to fill the threads.

Do this to all the bolts, and install finger tight one by one.

Then remove the bolts you installed to hold the cover in place, and then clean them and apply the sealer to their threads and install.

I take a socket in my hand, and hand tighten each bolt in a spread out pattern. Sort of like, 12, 6, 1, 7, 3, 9, and so forth. Repeat this in a pattern to where you can no longer turn them with your fingers using the socket.

Let sit for a while. Take this time to crawl out from under the rig and clean up, while enjoying a cold one put away all the tools and junk you used. Have another cold one while you stare at the cover real hard - or not.

Once you have finished your second beer, this should be enough time to crawl back under there and tighten the bolts to approximately 25' lbs. using the same alternating pattern.

(Set up time is dependent on the size of beers you have in the fridge).

I usually take my time in adding fluids as well, but be careful you don't forget to add fluids

This is what I use for sealer, and the process to seal up my HO52 Eaton cover. I don't have any leaks from my cover, which is a feat in itself on the Eaton axles... I also apply these products to the threads of the axle hubs, and the drain plug.

[cdowns]

^^^^good explanation// never been a big fan of sloppy sillycone tecniques

as far as the broken bolts you can sometimes with a small vicegrip grab it from the backside and turn it clockwise and remove it inside the housing

[Schralper]

Originally Posted by cdowns

^^^^good explanation// never been a big fan of sloppy sillycone tecniques

WTH are you talking about?
OE's have been using RTV, instead of "regular" gaskets for YEARS!
Why make the job harder on yourself?
Work smarter, not harder

[cdowns]

Originally Posted by Schralper

WTH are you talking about?
OE's have been using RTV, instead of "regular" gaskets for YEARS!
Why make the job harder on yourself?
Work smarter, not harder

he used the sloppy sillycone tecqnique if you read the post and got the typical results
i personally like to have a great lookin job that doesnt leak
i'm glad you're a silly fan tho

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Schralper

WTH are you talking about?

I'm guessing the person you replied to has been around long enough to know what he is talking about. It's within your rights to disagree, but please do it in a polite manner.

[joe231]

I worked in a shop for years, changed more diff lube than I care to remember. Always used "The Right Stuff" didn't wait, new lube went in as soon as the bolts were tight, and never had any leaks. I always completely cleaned all the old lube out of the housing and made sure that both mating surfaces were clean and dry, and that the pan was flat around the bolt holes. It's only going to be as sloppy and messy as the tech doing the work
Posted via Mobile Device

[Schralper]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

I'm guessing the person you replied to has been around long enough to know what he is talking about. It's within your rights to disagree, but please do it in a polite manner.

how is that not polite, should i do it on bended knee?

[AJs72K5]

I personally like Right Stuff. You torque down to spec while still wet and it will cure in oil. No waiting to torque it down or to fill it.

[lakeroadster]

Originally Posted by joe231

I worked in a shop for years, changed more diff lube than I care to remember. Always used "The Right Stuff" didn't wait, new lube went in as soon as the bolts were tight, and never had any leaks. I always completely cleaned all the old lube out of the housing and made sure that both mating surfaces were clean and dry, and that the pan was flat around the bolt holes. It's only going to be as sloppy and messy as the tech doing the work
Posted via Mobile Device

Agreed.

Replaced the lube on my Jeep's rear differential about 4 months ago, I simply cleaned everything and then used RTV, no gasket. Changed the oil on the motor today and while the oil was draining I checked the differential cover, no leaks, completely dry all around.

And if the rtv does ooze out some wipe it off with a shop rag.... it ain't no big thang.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Schralper

how is that not polite, should i do it on bended knee?

You can do it how ever you want, and I will take it from there. It's your call.

[Shyguy]

It seems like every time I come to this site and read the threads I learn something new. This place is a wealth of information.

[Sammy]

Thanks for the responses. I will take them all under consideration. Yes believe it or not that is gear oil leak. No brake fluid. When I had the cover probably two years ago? The cover wasn't bent or distorted at all. I didn't mess at all with the broken off bolt. If I recall it is just below flush with the housing. I had cleaned both services and blew them dry with the compressor. The very bottom of the housing did stay damp and I wasn't to concerned. But as you can tell I will be getting back into it in the next week. I didn't use a torque wrench just snugged them, trying to insure they were tight. Torque wrench will be used next time. Any suggestions on what synthetic gear oil? Not sure what weight gear oil I used last time.

[Schralper]

here's 3 diff diff's w/only ultra grey & synth oil
you shouldn't need a torque wrench, snugged firm hand tight or use air ratchet.
68, 78 (oily stuff that's tranny fluid overfilled DOH!) & 85 but you should be able to see the grey.
also got 2 D44's that don't leak but they (all) seep from fill plug

[vectorit]

In reference to my post.
I posted the way "I do it" and made no reference as to silicone being a bad choice.

I have no problems with silicone, and I use it on many other gasket applications.
It's just that I found using the sealants I referenced above, and in the application method works best for me on my Eaton.

As to set up time; I tend to move slow in doing work on my burb, so if you are the type that is pit crew style of work then more power to ya. I have used my above referenced sealants in a hurry as well, and they to seal just fine with out the barley pop breaks in between. Like I said, I like to take my time. To me, all this is my therapy from my day job.

In reference to your latest question about lube; I personally wouldn't bother with the synthetics on these old machines, and just stick with the tried and true 80/90 hypoid gear oil.

JMTC

[Wrenchbender Ret]

Has anyone mentioned the vent? Make sure the vent on top of one of the axle tubes is clear.

[Sammy]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

Has anyone mentioned the vent? Make sure the vent on top of one of the axle tubes is clear.

Good point never even thought about checking the vent. That maybe the source of why it started leaking so bad. mudd dobbers are everywhere.

[powerdriver 1958]

Ok since everyone is telling what they use I will too......Generic ultra black from o really's on a shaved 14 bolt. Then run the living daylights out of it . Even after sawing a bolt hole completely out no leaks .

I am a nut about a clean , dry (oil free) surface before putting it back together

[leddzepp]

Check the vent hose as stated, that was the cause of my leak. Couldn't even blow compressed air through it!

I also use Gasgacinch as pictured above by Vectorit....see my build thread. The stuff is fantastic.

[Schralper]

Originally Posted by powerdriver 1958

Ok since everyone is telling what they use I will too......Generic ultra black from o really's on a shaved 14 bolt. Then run the living daylights out of it . Even after sawing a bolt hole completely out no leaks .

Dang that makes my stock housing 14b look like it might actually drag on sumthing. imagine that

Plasma cutter or just lotsa grinding?