Suburban Question - Rear Clamshell Lift Supports

[iamthor]

I have searched this site and several others for info on converting the rear hatch to gas lift supports. I have found many people suggesting it but no info on anyone actually doing it. I am going to order the nessasary parts to try this. I have one qestion that seems to have a obvious answer. What weight rating do I need? I opened the top door and put a scale under it. It showed 26 LBS. So do i need a combined 26 LBS of support? More? Less? Any and all imput welcome. The Lift Supports will be mounting to same spots the slide-lock arms mount.

( SEE PIC HERE: http://photobucket.com/albums/c229/six4gmc/ )

Thanks
Abel

[iamthor]

I re-weighed the door at the mid point where the strut will mount. It registered 51lbs. I can get the struts in ratings of 20lbs., 30lbs., 60lbs., or 90lbs. each, I am thinking two 30lbs.'ers.

Is this condidered talking to yourself? Oh well.

[Frizzle Fry]

Based on what you've shown I'd say the 30 pounders should be about right. You'ed rather be a little over than under. I't needs more force in the lower positions anyway.

[bpmcgee]

To get the true weight of the door, weight the outer end with the door horizontal, then DOUBLE it (half the weight is supported by the hinges).

That's of course, assuming that the hinges are well oiled and don't have resistance to turning.

Brian

[iamthor]

Thats what i did. 26.5lbs. at end and 51lbs. in the middle. Is this door 100lbs. off the truck? Damn.

[Frizzle Fry]

No, if your "middle" weight were the balancing point then the hinges would not be supporting any load and the weight measured would be the true weight of the liftgate.

Based on your pics your mid-weight position is actually closer to the hinge side. You are measuring a value that includes leveraged force generated by a cantilever affect resulting in a value greater than the weight of the unit. Based on that I would say it weighs less than 51lbs total.

But none of that matters... because you are doing the right thing by measuring it in the configuration it will operate. You need to know what force will be seen by the struts, which you have. At the horizontal position each strut will need to be able to support more than 25.5lbs.

If you want it to raise from some lower angle like new SUVs you will need heavier struts. From the options you've listed, I'd go with 30s.

[bpmcgee]

Based on your pics, I agree the door weighs about 52 lbs.

Brian

[jtj143]

I wonder what came of this?? Did the gas struts function as expected? Six years...how have the struts held up?

[padresag]

Originally Posted by iamthor

I have searched this site and several others for info on converting the rear hatch to gas lift supports. I have found many people suggesting it but no info on anyone actually doing it. I am going to order the nessasary parts to try this. I have one qestion that seems to have a obvious answer. What weight rating do I need? I opened the top door and put a scale under it. It showed 26 LBS. So do i need a combined 26 LBS of support? More? Less? Any and all imput welcome. The Lift Supports will be mounting to same spots the slide-lock arms mount.

( SEE PIC HERE: http://photobucket.com/albums/c229/six4gmc/ )

Thanks
Abel

Monroe part # 901159 or
Strongarm gasstrut part # 4220
they are only about $20.00 each
there is a link showing this installation and I will see if I can locate it
should be able to take a picture tomorrow if you need. also have a set of nos 67 stays that I can take a picture of. they are supposed to be the same except for 1 more mounting screw on one end(3 instead of 2)
ron

[jtj143]

Photos would be great - thanks for the info! Are the '67 stays the same through '72?
Posted via Mobile Device

[padresag]

believe so
ron

[padresag]

here is the link- just had to find where I hid it.
this is for a 67-72
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=220511
ron

[protrash64]

The throw of the 67-72 supports is longer than the 60-66 by roughly an inch or two. I used the 67-72 supports on my '64.

[maxwoof]

Below is a link to a document that lists the dimensions of shock absorbers and lift supports offered by Monroe. May be helpful to someone looking to do this type of conversion.

http://www.monroe.com/assets/downloa...engthSheet.pdf

[padresag]

here are the pic and measurements
the measurement is fully closed and fully open-body only, not inc mounting piece
the dirty looking one is the one that I took off my 65 today for you. the other is one of a nos set that I got is he same length both marked "Atwood 13567" the only diff is one has 2 holes and the other 3 holes and I think that the 3 hole is for 67 and up. perhaps someone can validate that.. the ebay add just said suburban or blazer and had that atwood 13567 on them and I hoped that they would work and in the meantime I did get a better body that had a set
that does look like a GM # if someone can run it
ron

By rondavid at 2012-01-04

By rondavid at 2012-01-04

[protrash64]

I found some pics of my 'burb hatch supports. I had one original; couldnt find another and used 67-72 to replace the originals. The 67-72's are substantially beefier. It's the lower one in the top picture. Thats why they lasted IMO. You can also see that to use them they must be mounted lower than the 60-66. I used a self-tapper for the bottom hole and the top hole goes into the bottom mount position on the pillar. They are a little tight at the top.

Maybe the 3-hole supports are off a wagon or for barn doors??

[padresag]

I see the difference all right. perhaps they came off an early blazer?
the barn door are different.
those struts that I listed would work for the 60-66 then
ron

[padresag]

the 3 hole fits in exactly the same place as the orig. just the centre hole is extra
ron

[protrash64]

Originally Posted by padresag

the 3 hole fits in exactly the same place as the orig. just the centre hole is extra
ron

Interesting. I tried some early Blazer struts and they werent long enough to get our hatch out of the way of my head. I also looked at gas struts and could not find one that worked; although I have had people tell me they will. The issue I found was that the original hatch supports collapse on them selves and are shorter closed/longer open than any struts. If you sit inside and close the hatch you will see what I mean. Gas struts may work with different mounting positions; I went with the 67-72 'cuz it was quick and easy.

I also didnt look at all the links in this thread to see others solutions.