1 pc. Door Glass

[Rannos]

I know this has been discussed a few times but I have yet to see what I wanna do mentioned. I would like to do 1 pc door glass/wing glass delete in my 64. The only Kit I have seen or heard of is for electric windows and I want to retain my manual regulators. Anyone seen or heard of a place that sells a kit or will I have to get the glass cut and make my own? I dont reallt wanna pay for the electric window kit and just rob the felts/frame and glass from it. Plus I am not sure of I could even mount that glass to my manualy regulators.

[glos55]

The wing vent is another cool part of our old trucks character. I personally love the wing vents on my truck and on my other old classics. They are fun to adjust while driving and the whistle they make is great. Plus they look cool. I guess I just don't understand why you want to make this change. But if you do go with electric windows. Sorry just my 2 cents.

[Rannos]

I like the look of the 1 pc window in the 64-66 trucks... if I had a 60-63 I would leave the wing glass because it does look better that way. As for electric windows... thats not an option. We did this truck for ratrod car shows and playing at the track. No Heater, No windsheild wipers, No radio.... Bucket seats, Steering Wheel, Brake/Gas Pedals and Shifter. Thats the extent of my interior and I plan to keep it that way. Every body has their likes... I like plain and simple, clean... the less is more kinda thing. Until we pop the hood anyway.

[chevyrestoguy]

I can see both sides of this (1-piece vs. vent window), but I have to agree with glos55 about the functionality of the vent window. At certain temperatures, just cracking the vent window makes it nice and comfortable in the cab. I just like 'em.

The 64-66 glass is flat, and so having glass cut shouldn't be an issue. As far as the regulators, you might be able to get an extra pair and and use them to extend the stock regulators to compensate for the extra window length. Window rubber and window fuzzies might be a bit tricky. You might be able to find a GM car of the same era with larger window glass and use those rubbers and trim them to fit? GM was really good about interchangeability. The tricky part is to find an application from the same era that didn't have vent windows. In '68, GM started going away from vent windows in the cars, so that might be a good starting point....

[dstarrett]

I am in the middle of converting to one piece glass only with power windows. got the kit from Vintage glass out of Atlanta(?). My son, who works at a hot rod shop, says the felt channels and fuzzies are no big deal to find. I have made a plywood pattern of the one piece glass for mock up. can make you a paper pattern of send you the wood when done with, if it would help

[chevytrucknut]

I have done the very thing you are thinking about. The big issues are
1. you'll need to remove or flip the door stopper around or it'll hit your glass.
2. the glass isn't very tall on the sides so it will flop around when its half way down. To fix this I welded 1/4 steel rod to the bottom glass holder, to make it taller in the side felt channels.
3. you can buy stock lengths of the bottom and side window channel fuzz, so you can go all the way around the window in one piece.
4. the door outer sheetmetal loses a lot of strength with the wind window frame and the small metal tab between the inner and outer sheetmetal removed, so you'll want to weld in some support. It tweaks very easily.
Lastly....I hated it. It looked good and worked perfectly....but, I quickly missed the wing windows.

[Rannos]

Hmmm hadn't thought of the door stopper... being we are doing more of a rat rod type truck I either bolt or rivet a cut to length peice of small polished stainless chain for the door stopper. Small eough links so it fails down in the gap between cab and door. As for the structure I am sure I could do up a small tierod style strut or maybe a turnbuckle. What I am worried about is sence I don't have a heater I do use the wing glasses as a defroster in winter. The truck actually stays warm because I moved the engine as far as I could and have less the 1/8th of an inche between the header primarys and the underside of the toeboard.
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