A/C in the 71 Truck

[Andy4639]

I installed this compressor,condensor and late model acumaltor a few months ago. The system has been R-134A now for a few years. I got tired of the old A-6 compressor's going out on me after sitting up all winter so I swaped it out this time for this setup. Factory air box with a late model evaperator and the rest is all new from Classic Auto Air in Tampa Fl. I did away with the dryer also since I went to the Acumlator in the system.They sent the hoses with all kinds of fittings and I had to have one end of two hoses made up at the local A/C shop. Total price was $711.00. That included the compressor bracket too.
Parts:
67-72 Chevy Truck condensor
Hose Set for 134-A
Sanden V2gr 134-a compressor
Bracket Sm/Blk Low profile
Today it was 102 degree's here and I was running at 45 degree's according to my temp gauge in the center vent.
Here is a couple of pictures of it.



Here is a over all shot of the engine.

[HavinSomeFun]

Thats a sweet, or should I say COOL set up!

[Piece of Work]

"I was running at 45 degree's"

I am SO envious! I work construction in Myrtle Beach and need A/C, bad.



-Mark

[wibilly]

are you recirculating your air or using fresh air? i see you have no diaphram on your cowl vent

[Andy4639]

WIBILLY,
That's one of the things I haven't fixed yet. Good eye. I have the truck going into the body shop Monday so I plan to fix that this weekend. I'm going to seal it up I think, it want be permenant, but will block most of the outside air off.
Going to ribet some sheet metal inside the cowl.
Peice of work,
I have a trailer in Garden City right at the peir. Next time I'm down maybe we can get together. I don't drive the truck down there much except for the car show in March.

[GMC Jim]

On my system, I blocked the inside air and the air intake is exclusivley outside air... I believe the air is "fresher' with this modification and have no problem cooling the cab to a comfortable temperature. As a side benefit, if any of the cab occupants smoke, then outside air intake is a must !!!.......Jim

[Andy4639]

GMC JIM,
Do you have any pictures of what you did? I would like to see what you mean by blocking the inside air.

I blocked the inside air and the air intake is exclusivley outside air

I'm going to work on it this weekend and finish painting and detailing the parts I can.

[ehcees]

Looks like a great conversion to R134a. My 1971 C10 , 350, 4bbl, AT (All stock parts) with factory A/C is still R12. Last time any repairs were done was 1996 when compressor & dryer were replaced. The "Factory Air" rebuilt compressor from Auto Zone cost only $50 in 1996 with lifetime warrenty. Lasst year the blower resistor had to be replaced. On models with factory AC, this is located inside heater/AC box., unlike models wiithout AC that place the resistor outside of heater box. Not sure why your prior compressors kept failing. When my croakes, I'll get a freebie from Auto Zone & convert to R1345a. Truck is only driven 1,000 miles per year.

[Andy4639]

The compressor would sit ilde all winter unless you turn the air on every now and then. The seals on the clutch would harden and leak. I went threw about 4 total. I just got tired of the hasell of replacing them. Even if there free it's not good to release the freeon out and the time it takes to swap them out.

[Andy4639]

Here is a picture of the old setup. Looks the same except for the old compressor. I have all these old parts left to! I don't throw nothing away. Brackets,compressor, clutch needs to be rebuilt though.
Hint Hint!

[badpeanut]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

Hose Set for 134-A

Are they '67-'72 hoses or for a different application?

[Andy4639]

The hose set was just genric in length, the fittings all were in the deal that fit all the factory components. The hose from the condensor to the compressor had both fittings on it I think. The other two hoses I cut to length. I have all kinds of fittings left, they even sent all the o-rings for the 134-A and the orfice tube. Couldn't ask for a better deal.

[GMC Jim]

Andy, the outside air inlet valve (flapper door) is located just inside the plenum and covered by the cowl grille panel on the outside passenger side. This valve is closed when vacuum is applied thru the dash control panel head. Remove the vacuum hose and plug and this valve will remain open. The recirculated (inside air) valve is located inside the cab on the passenger side kick panel. This valve is open when vacuum is applied. Again, remove and plug this vacuum hose and the valve will remain closed.
So, the result will be; outside air at all times. It may be easier to plug the related vacuum hoses by access the control valve vacuum switch located just behind the dash control panel.
Note:- The ouside air valve is located just behind the cream colored plastic piece mounted on the engine side of the firewall , to the left of the a/c evaporator housing. This cream colored plastic piece serves as a pivot for the outside air valve and is illustrated in a pic you posted above this msg.' Hopes this helps,,,,,,,,,,,, Jim

[Andy4639]

OK just want to verify which one was which, that's got me right then. I don't have the inside valve any more and the out side one is broke so I don't have it at all. I took both of them off. I wonder what would happen if I block the cowl area up with a sheet of metal and ribet inside the cowl to block it off.
I still have both inside doors hooked up with the handles.

[72 longhorn BB]

Hi, can you tell me what kind of pulley mod you did to the sanden compressor and where to get the part?

I thought all of these vintage compressors came with a serpentine pulley.

Also, what is that reciever looking thing with the three pipes on it and where did it come from?

[Andy4639]

72 longhorn BB.
I didn't do anything to the compressor it came that way. I ordered it for the V belts on my truck. The thing with the two hoses is a acumalator off a late model truck. I swaped it out and did away with the dryer out on the condensor. This is a better setup than the stock 71 A/C.
The acumalator has 2 hoses and the back side is the low high switch to cut the compressor off and for cycling it on and off.

[GMC Jim]

Andy, as far as riveting in a piece of metal to close off the inside cab vent, that would then give you outside air. You will have to leave open the flapper valve located on the passenger side cowl grille area ( the valve pivot is in the firewall, accessibale from the engine compartment).At least, you will have to leave one or the other air intakes open for operation of the heater/AC system... Be sure and check for proper operation of the vacuum operated heater hose valve; the valve might seem to operate OK but the inside flapper that opens/shuts the water to the heater could be rusted out or defective. If this valve is defective then hot water will enter the system and the air conditioing will not be as cold as it should be.

[Boog]

So the total cost was $711 for : compressor, brackets, hoses, accumulator and orifice tube? The truck condensor you already had so is not included. What do you have mounted behind the condensor? A small puller fan? 45 deg pulling outside air in one of these trucks is super coolin on a 100 deg day!

[Andy4639]

Boog,
The kit was compressor,brackets,condensor,orfice tube, o-rings,hoses and all kinds of hose fittings. $711.00
For fans I have the clutch motor fan and a small electric fan my brother gave me years ago. I have no idea what it is or size. I had it I used it.

I bought the acumalator at O-rilies local for $35.00. The evaperator is OK.I already had the acumalator in the system before so I just matched it up with a new one at O Rilies.
I payed the local A/C shop to crimp to hose fittings for me that was $25.00 Then a friend did the evac and charge for $40.00.
Grand total is $811.00

[Boog]

Well it sure beats the $1400 or more from some of the other outfits doesn't it?

[Andy4639]

Yes it does. I saw your other post about late model systems and I can't see why it wouldn't work. Use the inside cab stuff with the late model outside stuff and put surpitine belt with it.

[2bits]

Hey Andy, Do you have any problems with the belt being that long? Mine flaps around too much for my taste, I am thinking I might need an idler pulley, is your's ok?

[Andy4639]

The belt for the compressor is actually shorter than the original one. Smaller compressor and it sits further down on the motor. No problems I can tell yet anyway.

[alschevy]

thats cool trying to find a/c parts for my 67 chevy truck


1967 chevy one ton tow truck

[Andy4639]

Thought this thread may help some of you out on your A/C stuff.