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10-13-2010, 10:39 PM | #1 |
RAT1968 '68 Cab/'71 Parts
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 2,375
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Body Parts Assembly Advice
the '68 cab and '71 chassis/bed/front clip are all separated. Each in their own "chunk". The motor and trans are out and almost ready to be connected to each other and dropped into the frame.
I moved the cab back about 12" just to have access for the "drop", and while it was there, painted the firewall. The front "clip" (the sheet metal), including inner fenders and radiator core, grill, hood, etc., are all sitting outside on four sawhorses. The original inners are rusted. Luckily, that's all that's badly rusted on that group of parts. Today I scored a set of stock inner fenders ($75) and I'm going to paint them the same color as the firewall. After I gut all the stuff out of the front "clip" (horn, wiring, a/c condenser and lines....the radiator is already out), I'm going to prime and paint the whole compartment the same color as the firewall and inner fenders. Now the question: Other than the good advice I got about not tightening up anything yet, what is the best "work flow" of how to take the old inners out and put the new ones in?... Should I fit them to the front "clip" and lift the whole thing over the motor and on to the radiator core support? Or should I prime and paint with the old inners in, then take the old ones out and off to the squisher (or someone who might want them) and then put the new ones that are now painted into the front "clip"? Or should I clean up the new inners, put them on the front "clip, and prime and paint while they are in the "clip"...Then lift the front on as one section? All of this supposes that I've moved the cab back on to the new mounts and have all that "group" of parts (the cab) in the right place...and not bolted down permanently. Sorry I don't have the talent or money or energy to try to shave off all the firewall stuff. I DO have a nice new brake booster assembly and a Vintage Air set up coming. And I'll try to spend some creative time on routing the wiring. But I guess I'll use the holes that GM poked in the wall...I'll look for proper new grommets. Thanks for any help. I love this stuff.
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M17 Coarsegold, CA RAT's shiny now. But always a rat. Last edited by magwakeenercew2jh; 10-13-2010 at 10:41 PM. Reason: I can't spell |
10-13-2010, 11:16 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Fall River California
Posts: 2,026
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Re: Body Parts Assembly Advice
You could just give that engine to me and solve your problem! Nice work!
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10-13-2010, 11:37 PM | #3 |
Back in the sticks
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Fordland, MO
Posts: 3,188
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Re: Body Parts Assembly Advice
I've never tried mounting the whole front clip as one unit. Usually, I get the engine and radiator mounted up and then hang the fenders loosely. Get the lines between the doors/cab and fenders lined up and then hang the hood. Adjust gaps as necessary. Unfortunately, my gaps are usually not so good, but nothing rubs and from 20 feet, its all good!
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1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty |
10-15-2010, 01:02 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Rathdrum Idaho
Posts: 197
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Re: Body Parts Assembly Advice
I am no pro but this is how i mounted mine.... first mounted engine and tranny in the frame , then mounted cab but did not tighten bolts, then mounted core support without radiator.... still all bolts are just hand tight... , then i hung my fenders , and the hood was last... once i got everything on i went back and started tightening everything while setting my body lines and gaps...
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10-15-2010, 01:21 PM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Santa Fe Springs, CA,USA
Posts: 1,579
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Re: Body Parts Assembly Advice
Wow Magwa, that engine is clean. How's the weather right now? I stop in Coarsegold every trip to Yosemite, love that Quick Serve at Meadow Ridge.
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70 shortbed stepside "Schleprock" 350 w/TH400 rallys and BFGs -We can rebuild it, we have the technology-lower,shinier,faster |
10-15-2010, 05:19 PM | #6 |
RAT1968 '68 Cab/'71 Parts
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 2,375
|
Re: Body Parts Assembly Advice
76 degrees today. To me, that's just about purrrr-fect.
More painting today. Working on the inside of the engine compartment...The "front clip". It's up on saw horses now. Hey! Have you priced saw horses lately?
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M17 Coarsegold, CA RAT's shiny now. But always a rat. |
10-15-2010, 06:02 PM | #7 |
I am a Referee of life.
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Greensboro N.C.
Posts: 13,993
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Re: Body Parts Assembly Advice
I would take out the old inner fenders and paint the new inners before installing.I think you will get better paint coverage this way and maybe prevent rust on edges and un seen areas.Also,I would suggest really checking the core support for rust,especially under the battery area.I have yet to see an original that isn't rusted there.
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The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil" |
10-15-2010, 06:06 PM | #8 |
Has more rust than truck...
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ivanhoe, MN
Posts: 2,421
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Re: Body Parts Assembly Advice
I'll agree with the cab mounts being about the last bolts you tighten. Mount the bumper before you tighten down the core support, it helps you center the the core support. good luck, I still need to work on my alignment a bit.
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10-15-2010, 07:40 PM | #9 |
RAT1968 '68 Cab/'71 Parts
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 2,375
|
Re: Body Parts Assembly Advice
Thaks, Guys. I need all the tips I can get. I'm more "hand$ on" for this one than I was for the last one. And the '72, although it was a frame off, didn't come this far apart.
What a disease this is. I decided to take it easy today because yesterday was a long solo day of lifting, hauling, unbolting. So I came home at about 2:00 for lunch and started to screw around with the glove box door. I'm going for a flat look to offset the Black Cherry shiny dash, doors and ceiling. So, I'm trying to match the gauge cluster. So far, the paint hasn't co-operated. But the rat-rod look is cool. Still, I'll finish painting the door to match the gauge surround. That emblem sure looks industrial, huh? I don't know how much I like it. Any suggestions? I kind-of wanted to carry the white over to that side of the truck. So I painted it white and gave it black letters. Added the red ror the bow tie. The A/C controls have white-face decals, too. Sorry, no pic. It's back at the shop mocked up with the dash.
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M17 Coarsegold, CA RAT's shiny now. But always a rat. |
10-15-2010, 07:43 PM | #10 |
RAT1968 '68 Cab/'71 Parts
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 2,375
|
Re: Body Parts Assembly Advice
oops!
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M17 Coarsegold, CA RAT's shiny now. But always a rat. |
10-16-2010, 08:12 AM | #11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Rathdrum Idaho
Posts: 197
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Re: Body Parts Assembly Advice
To match the bezel try a primer with a flat clear coat..
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