My '67 Suburban and a couple questions

[project 67 sub]

I have a running 67 c/10 suburban project that I paid 1500 dollars for back in september of 06, and am slowly working on, and plan on doing many things to it. That includes fast bags, 10"or 12" c-notched frame rear w/a 4 link, 3" or 4" z'd frame in front, going to lay frame on 20s' when done, shaved handles, bumpin sound system, caddy tails, mildly built tbi 350(in the works), doing some rust repair, body work, and other small mods here and their. It was already changed over from a 6 lug manual drum brake front end to a newer 76 chevy 5 lug disk brake front end when I bought it, and they are still manual brakes. The rear end is still the original 6 lug 12 bolt that was never converted over. It already has a 350 w/th400 trans. The trans is going to get rebuilt and eventually a gearvendor overdrive unit bolted behind it. I also have a 76 chevy lwb 1/2 ton c/10 pickup truck w/a cracked frame. Wasn't but am now going to use it for parts on the burban. It also has a 5 lug 12 bolt diff in it and was wondering if that the internals from that rear end would work in the suburbans original rearend? I am also wondering if i could use the power booster and master cyl from that truck to make the burb have power brakes? I still have a few more questions so bare with me. Has anyone here ever used the entire dash and steering column(this column came out of a 1990 suburban) in one of our burbs or trucks and what dose it take to make it fit? I know that their are probably a few more questions that I whant to ask you guys but cant hink of right now but oh well I'll ask them later when I can remember them. And thank you guys for your time in reading this and answering my questions if possible.

[project 67 sub]

anybody on here. Your guys questions, comments, and answers would be greatly appreciated.

[stsalvage]

NO the 1973--87 booster wont work use the braket off the 1967--72 chevy trucks take to keep as much of the stuff factory to them years cus when that part gose bad you can go to the auto part store where a 18 year old kid dose not know what a flasher is or a dip stick all he gose by is what the computer said the rear end to the 1973--87 unles you had leaf springs you more or less you have the ladder bars try and find a 1967--72 or 1964--66 1/2 ton truck but the 1971--72 has the 5 lug brakes on it

and in 1967 the only 2 engs that came in that modal was the 250--327 No big blocks where offered the 400 trans better check the hump in the floor only transmissions offered where 3 on the tree 4 on the floor and the 2 speed power glide and the th 350 the 400 will not FIT unless you cut the floor I have a 1967 3 door suburban mine is clean expeded for one rocker panle and my rear door and a little in the floor here are a few pic's

i have a 1968 GMC 3 door and it was converted to a 5 lug disc brakes in the front lowered and had the 1971--72 was used and when i go to the part house i can stay inside of the years try and keep it close to factory to the stuff you might want to find in the parts books if you change pan to have twice as much work and truoble shooting just made harder

trust me you Modifiy you pay in the long run if you kepp it close to stock with smiple up grades you will have a suburban that is worth a lot

Remmber Build them to sell don't build them one off No body will want it after your done with it and its only worth 5000.00 no the 21,000 that you have into it

[stsalvage]

here is the 1967 suburban

[stsalvage]

i hope these pic will help with the boster and one other thing the 400 is a good transmission but the 700R4 over drive 1987--1991 anything after is eletroic and the older ones needs all the new up dates the 1987--89 would be the best years to get get them out of camaros trucks Vans and so forth

[stsalvage]

i can help you but some of the things you might want to do might cost more money then you want to spend the heater core was easy on my 1972 3/4 ton i'm building it cost me over 9500.00 to build it to work its almost new all new factory replacement wirte harness you could go to pain less but i had my harness in in 2 hours painless will take you 1 day if you work fast i like the factory stuff cus it comes with all the gutters all the plugs and its so dang easy to put back in

see the hump in that bottom pic this is a 3/4 ton but it came with a low hump so i was not able to use the th 400 so i have to use the th350 the power steering box will not work on the 1967 frame you have to get the kit for the 1964--66 chevy convetion kit the 1968--72 have the indetion for the power steering box the 1967 frame is Flat

remmber to replace the hole front end new ball joints bushing trust me you want a good handling truck do that the air bags is a good trick to keep down
the bouncing down and wobbling down in the back a rear sway bar would be good to for the suburban

the brake booster bracket look at it that is the one you need

[stsalvage]

the 1967 powersteering looks a lot like this

[stsalvage]

that is what you called the power asist its not power steering just power asist now if some how you have some of the things that i told you you don't have then you have the 1968 suburban

[project 67 sub]

my burb is a 1967 and it has had the motor changed out for a 350 so the original engine is long gone. And it now also has a th/400 trans that I am going to rebuild and put a gear vendor behind to make a 6 speed auto. The trans hump in the floor was never cut. For the a/c I plan on puting a vintage ac unit in. It does have power steering now that came off my other truck(works real good to, can turn it with 1 or 2 fingers). It is also already far from original and I am also never going to be gettin rid of it. And as for the booster on the other truck all that I would have to do is change the bracket to make it work, or is that not what you said, because thats what i got out of that message. There is also no swaybars on it yet, so here is another question regarding that will the front swaybar from the 76 work under the burb seeing that everything else has already been changed over? For the diff question the truck is a leaf spring rearend and the burb is a coilspring rear. To make the question even simpler I was wonderin ig the guts would change over?

[stsalvage]

as long as your a good welder and make sure there dead on or your truck will dog leg dose your truck on the bare floor dose it have bolts the screw the tunnal cover down cus it might of been a 4 speed or a 4X4 if that was then you would have a high hump could you send me picture of your flooryou can use the ( GO ADVANCED) AND IT WILL ALOW YOU TO POST PICTURES WITH YOUR COMMENTS I NEED A 3 ANGLE PIC fron on top if you can so i can see and how did you get the powersteering to work did uou have to use the kit or just use washers to move the pump away from the frame can i get a pic of that as well and the sway bar should work it might need the brackets if you dont have them and the 1973--87 fram is wider then the 1960--72 frame

[project 67 sub]

Dont have a digital camera sorry. Plan on getting one eventually. As for the trans hump, no their is no screws holding the trans hump to the floor. And also the trans hump is pushed down in the center on the floor( dont know why, maybe previous owner or something). And as for the power steering the gear was already on it so I'd have to go look at itto see if their are any washers or something. All that I put on for the powersteering is the pump and lines. And I do have the swaybar brackets as well as the hole truck.

[bagged91]

My turn... STS- A TH350/TH400 will go into a low hump floor. It will be tight but it goes in... You can view some of the others experiences HERE

The 73+ parts will go into a 67-72 truck but some parts may require some modification. 73+ Brake boosters have been done on the 67-72 trucks and you can view the FAQ of this HERE.

The 76' Rear you are refering to will go into your truck if you cut off the axle saddles and weld on new ones. These are available from a number of vendors. CPP is the one that I last remember seeing them in(around $40). You will also need to get the mount for the tracking arm, and then make sure you have it right on. It would probably be easier to just find a stock 71/2 rear(they are plentiful around here) and just bolt it in, no welding required...

The front sway bar is a bolt in.

One last thing, welcome to the board. You can dig up more info by using the search button located up top.

L8R - Joe

[project 67 sub]

any more info would be greatly appreciated about my mods that I will be doing in the future. thanks for your help guys.

[project 67 sub]

tttt

[project 67 sub]

bump bump bump

[72LoBurb]

You can also go with ECE's Super track bar, then you won't have to weld anything on to the diff and also get the adjustable aspect for going lower than 4" in the rear

[project 67 sub]

Tttttt