Shortening leaf springs

[SuperpowerS]

Ok so I'm attempting to place a 1967 c10 short stepside onto a 1999 silverado frame. The only thing that seams to be a problem is the leaf springs interfering with the step on the bed. Right now the front leaf spring mount goes seven inches into the stepside so somehow I need to move it back seven inches to clear that. I have no idea the best way to get around this problem.

[Hombre321]

Seven inches is quite a lot. I think your best bet may be to find a spring shop and have them either modify your spring or maybe make you a new spring.

If you have them make you a new "Main Leaf" then maybe you can build the spring back up using the remaining springs in your existing spring pack. Springs are not at all hard to cut with a shop saw, but the arch will be wrong I think.

Is there any way you can fabricate a new front spring hanger?

[SuperpowerS]

Yeah I believe I could fabricate a new front spring hanger. If there's anyway I could shorten them myself then I would like to at least try that but if that's not an option then I could find a spring shop.

[B. W.]

leaf springs need to be equal (or close to it) so if you take 7" off of the front you need to take 7" off of the back also. Going to make a really short leaf. Post pics, where is the interference? Can you move the hanger down? (or fab one like Hombre321 said) For ride height you can de-arch the springs/remove leafs or possibly flip the axle.

[coreyjhen]

There's nothing wrong with an asymmetric leaf spring - Chrysler used them, successfully, for decades. You'll end up with the front "half" of the spring significantly stiffer than the rear, which Chrysler used to combat wheel hop in their high-performance models (recall the famous Super Stock springs). That being said, you'll definitely want to look into what your final spring rate will be - it will be substantially stiffer overall.

[Hombre321]

After reading coreyjhen's post it got me to thinking. That is almost always a bad thing but I did it anyway.

I come from the Hot Rodding World, mostly build Model A's, there and the building of those Hot Rod type cars you always have to think outside the box. I mean I almost always use and early Hemi in most of my builds, I even am probably going to use a 392 Hemi in my 1968 Chevy truck, think outside the box!

Now coreyjhen's statement about a asymmetric type spring just may your best bet. I know that time and money have to figure into your project, and this would certainly be less expensive and quick as well.

You will have a different spring rate on one side of the spring, the shorter side will be stiffer. We do however live in the real world and while I don't know this for a fact but I bet you would never even notice that difference in the seat of the pants way.

Leaf springs have been around a very long time, I mean the Romans used them. Probably there has not been much that hasn't been tried once or twice.

There was a long time ago a spring configuration that was very popular. It was the "Quarter Elliptical Spring" at some time they fell out of favor. Today in Hot Rods they are making a real comeback because of space restraints. here are a couple of pictures of some of them. I show them not as an idea for your truck, but to show that thinking outside the box sometimes is good.

[SuperpowerS]

So this is from the center of the axle to the front spring hanger.



So right now the front spring mount is directly in the center of the step.



So it needs to be no longer than 2 feet. So more than 7 inches need to be shortened more like 11-12 inches.

[SuperpowerS]

This is my first build so cheaper and easier is what I'm going for. If it would work with just cutting a chunk of the leaf spring from the front portion and moving the front hanger closer to the axle then wielding the leaf back together then that sounds very simple something I could do.

[Hombre321]

Well your pictures tell and interesting story. Particularly the last picture. On the far left side of that picture I believe the tire or just the edge of it is showing, is that right? If that is what it appears to be I am afraid you are not going to able to just cut the spring and move the hanger back.

The reason is the front side of the spring is just going to be way to short and create problems with the geometery. Even looking at that picture you are talking about a very short spring even if you have one made and keep it symmetrical.

There are other ways to go about this but all of them will require quite a bit if fabrication and cost.

There surely is a simple solution, but I cannot see it. Like I said I am new to these old trucks. I am sure that some of these guys here on this board have dealt with something like this and will chime in.

If you do decide to step outside the box there are ways to do that. Coil overs, air bags. All of those will require some kind of way to position the rear end like a four bar. Not hard or complicated but different. Not saying that is the only way but it is one way. Lets see what the more informed truck guys say...

[outfield]

Here's an idea. Take the rear springs from a 67 and adapt them to the 99 frame. You won't be recreating the wheel this way, and the length should be okay. You may be able to reuse the 99 spring hangers, by just moving them. Or reuse the 67 hangers. Take dimensions from the doner truck so you know where the spring hangers should be placed. You could use 67 to probably 87 half ton springs. It would be worth investigating...

[Vero67]

There are all kinds of different length springs available. Just research the length, arch and width you need. I am changing my 56 Chevy 2dr into a gasser using a 52 truck front axle. The cost of rearching the front springs was expensive. I am using cj5 springs with a 4" lift. They are the right length, width, and 1/2 the price.

[B. W.]

The issue is the 99 frame is wider than the 67 so there is no room to fit the hangers between the step & the frame. One possibility is to mount the springs under the frame rails. You could move them inside the rails but you want them as far to the outside as possible & inside the rails you now have issues with fuel tank, exhaust, etc.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Swap the step for a fleet bed and problem solved

[binford]

In board your springs.

Cut this hanger off. Cut the rivets heads off and hammer them out.
mount new hanger on the inside of the frame rail. If that won't work, mount them under the frame. Or get some hangers that can be French cut into the frame. see link below



leaf spring hangers link

Here's another in board kit link

[HO455]

It maybe easier to switch to coil springs.

[SuperpowerS]

Originally Posted by binford

In board your springs.

Cut this hanger off. Cut the rivets heads off and hammer them out.
mount new hanger on the inside of the frame rail. If that won't work, mount them under the frame. Or get some hangers that can be French cut into the frame. see link below



leaf spring hangers link

Here's another in board kit link

To me it seems like mounting the leaf springs under the frame would be the simplest and easiest way to go. Using the mounts from that first link would definitely work I think. My only question with that is the rear shackle right now has the leaf spring attached to the top of it while the bottom of the shackle is attached to the hanger. Would it affect it in any negative way if the shackle was attached to under the frame with the leaf spring under the shackle. So in other words if the leaf spring is hanging from the shackle, opposite of how it is now?

[First c10]

fleet side bed maybe???