Quick questions for Gen III (LSx) swap guys

[brossow]

Was going to test-fit my LS1 (donor = '99 Z28) on my rolling chassis ('72 C10 SWB) the night before last and quickly discovered how overly optimistic I had been. Need advice in two areas (to start with):

1. First big problem is clearance issues between the alternator and AC compressor. Each is a fraction of an inch too far outboard to clear than top frame rails. How are you conversion guys dealing with this? I want to keep the AC.

2. It appears the F-body oil pan may not clear the front crossmember. I've got tubular engine stands from CPP installed in the front (V8) holes. Should I be using the L6 mount position instead to move the engine back? Do I need to switch to a truck pan?

Right now all I want to do is get it set in place temporarily before the snow begins. Not only will it give me that much more floor space in my VERY cramped garage but more importantly I need to get some real weight on the front end so I can finish up a couple suspension things.

Thanks in advance,
Brent

[71BB_LWB]

The PO built the engine mounts on mine so this info may not help you but here goes, my LS1 came out of a 98 and the oil pan works fine, alt clears fine, but the AC had to be moved and I replaced the factory compressor with a Sanden 501 (I think), there is a company that makes a nice Compressor relocation kit for the sanden. http://www.kwikperf.com/lsx_ac.html I ended up making my own.
Check my build thread for pictures of most of this.

I think if you remove the compressor for now you should be able to set it in the frame, the alt will tuck in the frame rail if it's like mine.

[brossow]

Great info, 71BB_LWB — thanks!!

Any other input is greatly appreciated.

[brossow]

Can anyone tell me what mounting position you're using for the engine stands? With my CPP tubular stands in the V8 (front two holes on the top frame rails) position the F-body pan is hitting the crossmember before the mounts are sitting on the stands. I can move the stands back to the L6 position but I'll have to drill two holes in the crossmember for the bottom stud on the stands. Before I drill those holes, I'd really like to make sure I'm not missing something important, particularly with regard to firewall clearance by moving the engine back. Pics are below.

[71BB_LWB]

Here are some pictures of my motor mounts and how the motor lines up to the frame, hope it helps.

[71BB_LWB]

I would move it back far enough to clear the pan and drill. If I can help anymore let me know.
Dan

[brossow]

Those pictures REALLY help! Looks like the PO used the 6-cyl mount location, so I'll go ahead and drill a couple holes and try to get this thing bolted in. MUCH appreciated!

[brossow]

By the time I got the kids fed, clean, and in bed it was getting late but I managed to get one side done. Until both are done (and there's enough light to work with heavy objects like engines) I won't know for sure how things fit, but it looks promising according to my tape measure. Here's what I did on the driver's side; passenger side will get done tomorrow night after work. Then Tuesday evening, after the paint has dried, we'll know for sure.

[Hart_Rod]

I used the Cadillac CTSv pan on mine. Here's a thread discussing the different pans:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=272174&page=2

[brossow]

The Caddy pan looks nice, but I hope I can avoid that expense with the relocation of the CPP stands. We'll see in a couple days....