1972 Blazer CST Frame off Project in NC

[tjsblazer]

I found these instructions for the Service kit installation of this in a for sale thread on this site. These were for Dealer service campaign. If you read it says under full vehicle weight the stop should be tightened with 1/8" of space to the spring. This is with factory spring geometry but it seems too close to me. I would think you would get hard contact and banging under fast spring compression at least looking at the spring geometry of the ORD / Alcan custom springs. They are designed with that thinner gauge higher leaf count so they do deflect a lot more than factory set up.

Anyways food for thought ...

[UGAK5]

Thanks Jeff, that is an awesome find!

I did exchange emails with Chris, the engineer at ORD. His recommendation was to trim them back (at minimum) or to remove them (at maximum). He did not suggest a clearance amount, so the dealer campaign docs you found are perfect.

I also agree with your observation of the softer springs with greater deflection from ORD/Alcans too though - so i think its gonna be more clearance than that in the end. That said, I have been thinking about his suggestion to remove them too. The obvious idea of the bracket is to provide some modicum of steering ability in the event of catastrophic spring failure. But when you see the difference between the stock shackles and the beefy ORD shackles - its really hard to imagine how they might fail, or if they do, steering may be the least of your worries.......

I'll mull it over for awhile...

[UGAK5]

Ok, been pretty busy the last 3 weeks, but have made some progress. I do feel like its been 1 step forward, 3 steps back though...... I've started lots of things and not really finished anything. So heres whats been going on:

1) Mounted shocks, bump stops and a custom uhaul receiver hitch - complete.

2) Ran all brake lines - front complete, not the rear. I ran into an issue....realized the axle builder put the brake backer plates on the wrong sides, so a spent a Friday night cracking into the axle, draining it and pulling the axle shafts so that I could swap the backer plates.....not happy. I hate redoing work that I thought was done.

3) Ran all fuel lines. Not complete. What a crazy assortment of lines I got from Inline Tube.....thanks to many Member's posts, I was able to sort out enough to get it done.....right up until I figured out 2 things. In NC, I don't need emissions inspections, so I am not going to use the charcoal canister and lines AND I was sent the Pickup main fuel supply line, not the Blazer.......UGH. Not hard to redo, just more lost time.

4) Fuel Tank. Decided to carve into my original tank and get the fuel filler pipe off and have it transplanted onto the reproduction tank. Took awhile to find a radiator shop willing to do it, but its at one now and hope to get it back this week. Meanwhile, the original straps are soaking in evaporust (that stuff is crazy good) and will get repainted today.

5) Steering gear box mounted. Complete. Like my new Redhead gear box a lot. Great folks there too. Took time with me on the phone.

6) Front brakes - complete, mostly. Got the new Wilwood D-52 calipers on and all the hoses connected. My old school 15" Rally Wheels wouldn't clear - even with the .25" wheel spacer that others have used. Tried different wheels, all had issues. I will be going with an aftermarket wheel, the Mickey Thompson Classic III - in a 16". After ordering a 15" with 3.6" backspacing, it cleared the caliper itself great, but only cleared the caliper mounting bracket by 1.45MM. Too close for comfort for me.

7) Rear Brakes - UGH. I decided to do those last Friday, which is when I discovered the backer plate issue. So, I restarted yesterday. That's when I realized I am an idiot......I was starting by installing the parking brake cables (Inline Tube - GREAT quality) only to realize that if I weren't an idiot, I would have ordered them 3" longer than stock to accommodate for my 3" of lift. Oh well, nothing time and money wont fix!

8)Engine and Trans Crossmembers - Complete!

9) Center Link - Tried to tackle that yesterday as well and was able to get the Right end of rather easily, no such luck on the left end. I tried penetrating oil, BFH, BFW, Torch. Nada. Gonna attack it again today, and if no dice, will take it to a shop this week.

I guess the advice I need now is this - which is cheaper a psychiatrist or an alcohol addiction!

[UGAK5]

Pics

[UGAK5]

More PICS

[tjsblazer]

Could you please share the Bilstein part numbers you used for both Front and Rear shocks?

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by tjsblazer

Could you please share the Bilstein part numbers you used for both Front and Rear shocks?

No problem. These are the Bilstein 5125s, which are universal. I went with an 11" in the rear and an 8.60" front, which was to adjust for my 3" lift. The specific items #s are 33-185606 Front and 33-104652 Rear. Chris at ORD helped me select the right length.

You may notice I mounted them with the rubber boots down. You can mount them either way, but my OCD kicked in and if you mount the rubber boots up, the word 'Bilstein" is the upside down.........Sad, I know.

[A1971Blazer]

Tie rod is what goes from steering knuckle....... to steering knuckle...drag link connects pitman arm to steering arm....what you are referring to is the "tie rod end"
I have a torque chart somewhere if I can find it.

from LMC catalog:

[hemi43]

There's no need for factory specs because the size of the bolt and it's grade will determine what's needed for the proper torque. I have this chart posted on the shop wall.

[UGAK5]

Attempting some progress this weekend - but as always, hit some snags.

I was reviewing some build threads looking at steering dampers and stumbled across this pic on Big J's build of a front parking brake cable support. See pic from his build below.

I have the two smaller rear ones that are about 3 - 4 inches long, but I don't have a longer one for the front passenger side. That one looks 14 to 16 inches long.

One, am I supposed to have it (assume answer is yes) on a 1972 and two, any ideas on a source? Not shocked I don't have it as the the PO's work included taking the rear drums parking brake lever out from between the shoes, so clearly it didn't have a functioning parking brake.....

[DeadheadNM]

Yes supposed to have one. A wtb on the parts board should turn up. I'll look here to see if I have one to spare.

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Yes supposed to have one. A wtb on the parts board should turn up. I'll look here to see if I have one to spare.

This is my parking brake setup based on the parts I have from the PO and the ebrake kit I bought from Inline Tube. Weird that they left the 2 little intermediate line holders but not the long one.

[UGAK5]

Had a good weekend - got almost everything off the to do list for the weekend.

DONE:

** Rear brakes completed, including having to fabricate an adjuster opening in the brake backer plate. I don't think I've posted this before, but when I rebuilt the rear axles, I replaced the stock brake backer plates with an original set of heavy duty brake backer plates. This gives me a set of shoes that are 2 3/4" wide versus 2", so I gained about 30% of stopping power. I decided I wanted to keep rear drums for three reasons - 1) 70% of braking is in the front and with my new slotted rotors and dual caliper Wilwoods, that seemed sufficient. 2) Rear discs move you to a 16" wheel and I wanted to stay with 15" - that backfired when I had to move to 16" wheels due to front clearance. And, 3) Rear discs cost almost triple what this cost me.

** Tie rod cleaned, POR-15'd, tie rod ends installed and mounted

** Fuel tank modified (swapped filler neck from old tank to new tank), repainted - and POR-15'd the straps. Would've mounted it too if I'd had four arms - - or a helper.

NOT DONE:

** Steering damper not installed. I bought a Monroe shock and had some clearance issues - plus I just didn't like the Monroe shock. I am going to try a Bilstein.

Now, some pics.......and A ROLLING CHASIS!

[UGAK5]

Rest of the pics:

[ochre1971]

Looking great Chris. Congrats on getting her rolling! That parking brake cable support looks easy enough to make yourself if you don't come across one.

[UGAK5]

Hey guys - - I am curious if anyone has any advice on what to complete BEFORE putting the tub back on the body. My body guy texted and he is in the final stages - exciting and scary!

So far, here is what I have done:

* Run all brake and fuel lines
* Installed leaf springs, axles and shocks
* Installed engine and trans crossmembers
* Front and Rear brakes
* Wheels and tires
* Parking Brake installed

Still left to do (at least in my mind):

* Fuel tank, sending unit and rubber fuel lines
* Transfer Case and Trans installed
* Drive shafts installed

Then put the tub on


Not sure if there is anything else - tail light wires, etc - but all that seems like it would be easy post tub install. Appreciate any suggestions from guys that have been there, done that.

Thanks!

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by ochre1971

Looking great Chris. Congrats on getting her rolling! That parking brake cable support looks easy enough to make yourself if you don't come across one.

Thanks Banks - feels like I am picking up steam now!

And had an interesting find last week. I was looking at torque converters and discovered a guy here in Cornelius who builds them for racers all over the world. One man shop, super knowledgeable and professional. He is building mine for me and I should have it next week.

The beauty of a local guy is service after the sale - he said if I was in any way unhappy with its stall limit (after I get everything back together), he'd adjust it for me for free. Hard to beat.

[turp mcspray]

If they are done, I would install the engine, trans, and transfer case, before the tub.

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by turp mcspray

If they are done, I would install the engine, trans, and transfer case, before the tub.

Thanks Turp - No engine yet, so that'll be after the tub goes on. I did get the tank, all rubber hoses for the tank and the wiring done. I got my steering dampener on - - I did go with a 5100 series Bilstein - - fit really well and had the same 9" travel of the Monroe, so I think it'll be fine. Keeping the Monroe around just in case though!

I did tackle the Transfer Case - and got it mostly installed. I ran into a problem with the bolts for the side of the transfer case that connects it to the frame - the 3 piece stabilizer with the rubber bushings. I tried to reinstall the bolts from the PO and they would get tight, then slip the thread and be loose again. So, I went and got new bolts - 9/16-12 and it still felt loose in the thread. Tried to torque it up and same thing - - once it got past snug, it slipped the thread.

So I thought I have the wrong bolt for sure. Bought a 5/8-11 but couldn't get it started. Also picked up some M14 (too small and slid right into the hole) and M16 (wouldn't thread, like the 5/8), and neither worked.

So, I am guessing the 9/16-12 is the right bolt and pitch, but thats not fixing my slipping problem.

Anyone got a recommendation on a fix - - or a confirmation on bolt size? I know alot of guys run without this brace, but I want it on there.

Thanks - - kinda stuck

[Tom Vogel]

I am guessing you are sure the threads are not stripped.

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

I am guessing you are sure the threads are not stripped.

Well, if the proper bolt size is 9/16, then I am thinking they are stripped, and that I'll need to drill it and tap it (a skill I don't have).

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by UGAK5

Well, if the proper bolt size is 9/16, then I am thinking they are stripped, and that I'll need to drill it and tap it (a skill I don't have).

look down past the bad threads...if there are a few good ones below them...just get a slightly longer bolt so it will catch the good threads...

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by A1971Blazer

look down past the bad threads...if there are a few good ones below them...just get a slightly longer bolt so it will catch the good threads...

Yeah, tried that. Thanks though.

I think its gonna have to be tapped...unless someone has a better idea.

[UGAK5]

Finally something cool to share - - COLOR!!!!!!

I don't think the pics do it justice.

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by UGAK5

Well, if the proper bolt size is 9/16, then I am thinking they are stripped, and that I'll need to drill it and tap it (a skill I don't have).

Turns out that the bolts are supposed to be 5/8-11. The PO used 9/16-12s and boogered the threads up to the point that only a 9/16s would thread, but not tighten. Oh well, par for the course.

The silver lining is it's fixed now and I met an awesome machinist in the process. A true craftsman.