Static drop lowering-totally lost!

[seanconnery]

Allright folks. All the threads about lowering the 73-87 truck have goeetn me more confused than ever. The confusion is mainly about picking the right parts. Here's a rundown of the criteria I'd like to stick to: I have a 1981 GMC Sierra Grande 1/2 ton shortbed 2wd with a 250 6 cylinder. I want to slam my truck without air, and using my $600 from Uncle Sam. I do not want to c-notch the rear, cause someday I'll be backhalfing it anyway, and I really don't haul anything. The notch would be a waste of my precious money. So is lowering coil springs. The front will sit on air someday too, so why spend the coin on springs you'll end up ditching anyway?

What I'm looking for is a nice, level slammed stance. Up front I'd like lowering spindles, but I've read here that there are multiple size spindles, that some will interfere with your turning radius, and that there are different sized brake rotors on these trucks. All this being said, I don't know what kind of parts for the front to buy so I don't screw anything up. I want the rear to sit level with the front, but I don't know what combination of parts to use. For pictoral purposes, I like the stance of Mr79C10, gunshotwoundshurt, and Malo83's trucks for example.

All you dudes and gals out there who have static dropped trucks; any advice you could give me would be a blessing. Sorry for the long email, but I'm just a tad frustrated, confused, and nervous.

[bigblock73]

I would run drop spindles in front, with or without drop springs. Drop spindles come in 2.5" and 3" depending on mfr. If you run 3" units, you will have to do some slight trimming on your LCA to clear the rims..UNLESS you have larger than 15" rims or rims with less BS than stock. You don't need to worry about any of this with 2.5" spindles.

For the rear, you can run a flip kit (5-6" depending on what rear leafs you have) without having to notch (but you might bottom out at times), or you can also install a shackle/hanger combo that will give you a 4" drop.

If you just want a mild drop, I would do spindles and shackles/hangers giving you about a 3/4 drop.

[Malo83]

Fr= Spindles and Springs
Rr= Flip Kit

[Rooster's82]

Originally Posted by seanconnery

Allright folks. All the threads about lowering the 73-87 truck have goeetn me more confused than ever. The confusion is mainly about picking the right parts. Here's a rundown of the criteria I'd like to stick to: I have a 1981 GMC Sierra Grande 1/2 ton shortbed 2wd with a 250 6 cylinder. I want to slam my truck without air, and using my $600 from Uncle Sam. I do not want to c-notch the rear, cause someday I'll be backhalfing it anyway, and I really don't haul anything. The notch would be a waste of my precious money. So is lowering coil springs. The front will sit on air someday too, so why spend the coin on springs you'll end up ditching anyway?

What I'm looking for is a nice, level slammed stance. Up front I'd like lowering spindles, but I've read here that there are multiple size spindles, that some will interfere with your turning radius, and that there are different sized brake rotors on these trucks. All this being said, I don't know what kind of parts for the front to buy so I don't screw anything up. I want the rear to sit level with the front, but I don't know what combination of parts to use. For pictoral purposes, I like the stance of Mr79C10, gunshotwoundshurt, and Malo83's trucks for example.

All you dudes and gals out there who have static dropped trucks; any advice you could give me would be a blessing. Sorry for the long email, but I'm just a tad frustrated, confused, and nervous.

What he said only i want to be able to haul.

[JCampbell]

Originally Posted by seanconnery

...I want to slam my truck without air, and using my $600 from Uncle Sam. I do not want to c-notch the rear, cause someday I'll be backhalfing it anyway...

...So is lowering coil springs. The front will sit on air someday too, so why spend the coin on springs you'll end up ditching anyway?

Well, if your definition of “slam” is the same as mine, you’re going to need to notch your truck. You could skip it, but after about a week of normal driving, you’re either gonna notch it, or lift the back end up some. They say a good rule of thumb is 3” of clearance for a daily. Well, my dually has about 3” of clearance and I still make contact even with my springs being as stiff as they are. I’d say 4”-5” is a pretty good base number.

Secondly, “someday” is a long way off. For some folks, “someday” never comes. If it were me, I’d buck up and buy the right parts the first time, drop it and be happy with it. Or, just leave it alone until you do put it on bags. Don’t half ass it. You’ll never be happy if you do. Just remember, you could always sell the unneeded parts later to recoup some of the cost. Plus, your springs are only gonna run you, what, 80 bucks? If your gonna sweat 80 bucks, I’ll bet that “someday” for a full bag job and back half is a lot further off than you know.

Originally Posted by seanconnery

...I want the rear to sit level with the front, but I don't know what combination of parts to use. For pictoral purposes, I like the stance of Mr79C10, gunshotwoundshurt, and Malo83's trucks for example.

If you just want to drop, or level it, you can get away with a hanger and/or shackle kit. But that’s far from being “slammed”. I can’t really get a good enough mental pic for the other two, but for sure Malo83 is running a spindle/spring in the front and a flip in the rear.

Just trying to help.

[BowTieOgre]

Im running 2.5" spindles, 2" springs and a flip kit. I did NOT use a cnotch kit in the rear and have never bottomed out as of yet and I have taken some dips in the road at speed. Sitting still and unloaded ive got about 4" of room between the axle tube and red rubber bumpstops that came with my kit. You can cut your coils instead of buying 2" coils but you are going to sacrifice some ride quality. I rode around like that for a month while I saved up for spindles and springs.

[S10Fan]

3" spindles and cut 1 coil in the front. Also removed the bump stop on the LCA. Still planning on moving the upper shock mount.

The rear was flipped without a kit. I used a new spring pad and added 1" lowering blocks. Flipping and adding a block required me to shorten my driveshaft. The shaft was cut roughly 3/4". Adding the block changed things just enough to make shaft length an issue. Note: The block was added a couple weeks after the flip was completed.

Also, I built new shock extender brackets for the rear but they haven't been installed yet. My rear shocks look to be original and were shot. A note to those that say you don't need the extenders, yes you do. Both rear shocks are now leaking fluid, busted.

Anyway, I didn't measure the truck before lowering. My best guess would be 5-6" on both ends

[S10Fan]

BTW, I'll try and get a better picture tomorrow. I went out an hour ago to take a picture since the truck was parked on the street in front of my house. Found my drivers door caved in, neighbors kid backed into it and didn't see the need in letting me know. Another neighbor witnessed it, said she had trouble backing while talking on the &^%(*&!! phone!

Moved the truck to a safe spot next to the garage.

[Rooster's82]

Originally Posted by S10Fan

BTW, I'll try and get a better picture tomorrow. I went out an hour ago to take a picture since the truck was parked on the street in front of my house. Found my drivers door caved in, neighbors kid backed into it and didn't see the need in letting me know. Another neighbor witnessed it, said she had trouble backing while talking on the &^%(*&!! phone!

Moved the truck to a safe spot next to the garage.

AGRRRR....what total BS! Well at least you know who did it, suck when that crap happens and you can do anything about it.

[S10Fan]

Originally Posted by Rooster's82

AGRRRR....what total BS! Well at least you know who did it, suck when that crap happens and you can do anything about it.

I found those doors a few weeks ago, totally rust free. Sanded them down to the bare metal, shot them with 3 coats of epoxy primer, good to go. Idiot teenager with a cell phone destroys one in less than 10 seconds.

[AceX]

You know you can get them for hit-and-run right...?

[JCampbell]

Originally Posted by BowTieOgre

Im running 2.5" spindles, 2" springs and a flip kit. I did NOT use a cnotch kit in the rear and have never bottomed out as of yet and I have taken some dips in the road at speed.

I knew somebody would prove me wrong. I was thinking about my '79 C10. I had to notch it cause it was so stinking low. But after I thought about it, I remembered that, in addition to my home made flip, I also flipped my hangers, too.

I'm old school like that.

Thats something else you could do to save $$$...build your own flip kit. Just get some leaf spring perches. Only thing is, you have to set your pinion angle. Once you've done that, burn 'em on to the axle tubes. I reused my stock u-bolts and bottom plate. The perches cost me $25 from a local speed shop.

[S10Fan]

Originally Posted by AceX

You know you can get them for hit-and-run right...?

Sure do, but that action/charge would be a waste of my time. I'm going to talk to her dad tomorrow. He (the dad) will make it right. Checked prices of new (aftermarket) door shells this afternoon, I can get one for 135.00 out the door.

One good thing about all of this. My soon to be driving 15 year old witnessed first hand how much a PIA driving distracted can be for the innocent. To quote her, "Dad, you really have to pay attention every second your driving don't you?"

Amen!

[S10Fan]

If it had been this one, well, I'd be in jail.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by JCampbell

I knew somebody would prove me wrong. I was thinking about my '79 C10. I had to notch it cause it was so stinking low. But after I thought about it, I remembered that, in addition to my home made flip, I also flipped my hangers, too.

I'm old school like that.

Thats something else you could do to save $$$...build your own flip kit. Just get some leaf spring perches. Only thing is, you have to set your pinion angle. Once you've done that, burn 'em on to the axle tubes. I reused my stock u-bolts and bottom plate. The perches cost me $25 from a local speed shop.

Ok, I'll ask..... How do you flip the leaf spring hangers?

[69face]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Ok, I'll ask..... How do you flip the leaf spring hangers?

just burn, cut, or grind off the rivets and mount the og hanger inversely. you have to put the spring and bolt in and then make sure the hanger is lever and then mark holes, drill, and use grade 8 hardware. my uncle did it once. get her done.com

[C10 the GEM]

If you do a flip kit and flip the origianl leaf spring hangers how much will that drop?

[454HO]

Originally Posted by C10 the GEM

If you do a flip kit and flip the origianl leaf spring hangers how much will that drop?

Definately enough to need a C-notch!

[Square84]

on the front use the 2.5 spindles then put a level on the core support and heat the springs stop when it get as low as you want it. on the back if you flip and cut off the bumpstop and mount you dont need to notch but anything else is kinda cuttin it close.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Square84

.... put a level on the core support and heat the springs stop when it get as low as you want it.....

Please don't recommend heating springs as a method of lowering a vehicle when the original post said " I don't screw anything up."

While it can be done that way, it is well known that heating springs can destroy the tempering and will lead to sagging or possibly collapse.

[S10Fan]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Please don't recommend heating springs as a method of lowering a vehicle when the original post said " I don't screw anything up."

While it can be done that way, it is well known that heating springs can destroy the tempering and will lead to sagging or possibly collapse.

Amen!

Lowered the front of a 69 C-10 that way (many years ago), right front spring broke while going about 70 MPH. I didn't wreck but I have no idea why, I'm thinking support from above.

[Square84]

my 82 s10 has heated springs been there since 1998 and has a small block in it since 02' still rides great no sagging.

[Square84]

i guess thats what happens when your 16 have no job and want a low truck you do what you got to do.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Square84

my 82 s10 has heated springs been there since 1998 and has a small block in it since 02' still rides great no sagging.

You are living proof that it "can" be done that way, and you "might" not have any problems. Unfortunately most of the time people get carried away with the heating process and the end result is failed springs.

Trust me, I completely understand being young (or old) and broke yet still wanting to customize. I have been there, done that, and have the scars to prove it.

If you really must do it on a budget, it is much better to remove the stock springs and cut a coil off. Even this method can cause problems if you use excessive heat, but works much better than heating the springs until they collapse...

[Square84]

How Much Drop Will Cutting One Coil On A Full Size Get You ? On The S10 One Coil Was Close To Three Inches Thats Why I Heated Mine Because I Didnt Want It That Low. I Want To Lower My Burb With Spindles But I Wanna Get About 4 Inches In Front And Spindles Only Do 3 At Most.