Have a spindle question????!!!! Click here

[Mrknowitall]

Ok so im tired of hearing questions that have miles of answeres while still leaving questions... so here we go.

Wanna lower your truck without cutting springs? Ready to do it right with lowering spindles? GOOD CHOICE.

Theyre are a good 7 companys that sell lowering spindles and about 20 over seas companys that will rob you. So the question u need to ask yourself is.....

How much is your life worth? Ur wifes? Ur childs?
Dont buy the no name spindles!! They may last 40 years, maybe 4 miles.
tons of users have proven the use of jdm or ground force spindles with no problems.

Lmc brand spindle buyers report the spindle shaft (for us brake-rotor/hub combo guys) spindle shafts are 2 different leanths thus tire back spacing is off.
(one tire sticks out more than the other)....
--Im unsure of when chevy switch from a brakerotor/hub combo to disk and hub setup. Any one know?? Ill add it in.

Theyre are 2 things to consider when buying spindles, over all
castings (more webs the better) and steering arm/ knuckle thickness.
Stronger the better.

Jdms go for $200-350usd depending on sales/ place. Groundforce average 400.

Ok so groundforce no question right? No.
Groundforce offers up to 2.5in drop where as jdm does not offer 2.5
only 3in drop. (correct me if wrong but i looked for years and thats what i found...but i could b wrong, i admit i dont know everything pun intended)

Another point: to those running 15 in rims please note the following:
---the lower a-arm's lip furthest to the curb MAY contact the inside wall of the rim depending on your backspacing. (i had a pic but cannot find it) Many users solve this issue with a grinder, some last forever without failure HOWEVER 2 (two) users DID report a-arm failure after grinding away the metal to allow clearence. so once again,

ONLY SAFE solution: Be prepared to buy new rims or run spacers.((I DO NOT CONDONE THE USE OF SPACERS, I THINK THEY ARE HORRIBLE AND SHOULD NEVER BE USED, BUT THATS PERSONAL PREFERENCE.))

SECOND 15IN RIM ISSUE://////see pic #1-3///////
--The upper brake house may contact the inside of the rim causing the wheel to not fully mount onto lugs. **OR may seem fine at first and upon rolling wheel, then will suddenly lock due to contact.
**= especially for us alum/mag rim users, the mags are notorious for having "wavy" inside wells due to poopy castings.

ONLY solution: Please note i did NOT say "ONLY SAFE solution:"
---Take a grinder WITH SAFTEY GLASSES and remove the amount of casting thats in the way. Be ready to mount, un mount the wheel 100+ times to ensure just enough metal is removed...not too much, not too little.
THIS IS IMPORTANT!!!!! when things get hot they expand/"grow" so u need to remove enough steel that when the spindle AND rim get hot and expand, there will be enough clearance. For this use the 3layer construction paper rule. Take 3 sheets of construction paper and wedge it in the space, if its LOOSE and moves FREELY it SHOULD be okay.


.....to be continued

[Mrknowitall]

Okay, so now lets assume the spindle went on fine, your rims fit fine/have taken appropriate SAFE actions to insure PROPER fit.

These truck same with tonnnssss of flaws from factory, one being the way the brake rotor dust shields seal to the spindle.

DUST SHIELD FLAW #1
The flat surface that mates to the back of the inner wheel bearings was not square and flat, so as it rolled down the factory line it grinded away at its self until the high surfaces were gone and could move freely. :yuck:
In pic 4 you will see the brake rotor dust shield, please note my "I" markings, these show where the high points start and end.

HOW TO CORRECT THIS: mount the setup without seals; take a wide punch and TAP it flat. NOW REMOVE IT, your not done!!!

DUST SHIELD FLAW #2
For some crazy reason chevys brains were drunk that day, they used a tiny little "o"-ring to seal the dust shield to the spindle!!!
This o-ring is responsible for maintaining 300 degree temps, keeping water, brake dust, and dirt out of the wheelbearings!!! now i know what ur thinking, "nooo mrknowitall, u still have an inner seal!!" yes u do, but if u follow the pathways, the failure of this o-ring will allow the passage of dirt and water to RUB against the wheel seal causing premature failure.

HOW TO CORRECT THIS: Clean and ensure the squareness of surfaces; apply high temp sealant creating your own seal, black stuff will work, temp ratings are ok but copper coloured silicone is the best. I used black so it would blend in. ///////pic#4///////

----------------------
So youve done the above, lets move on.
Make sure you buy a wheelbearing grease thats made for disbrakes. YES IT MATTERS. I believe its mobil 1 that makes a 500 degree fully synthetic grease. I used a 400 degree coast brand grease for mine and i am so happy its rediculas. These brakes will fail before they ever reach 400 degrees, but whats 2 dollers more?

cont.

Pack the wheelbearings as you should and do the following;
FILL THE HUB FULL OF GREASE some will say u do not have too, that that is just a waste, i say no. If you plan on getting years of service/passing at 80mph, the grease will turn moltent and sling no matter what, so if the hubs are not full, the bearings will sling and run dry,
-Wheras the hub is full, first high speed/hot situation the hubs/bearings will "seep" out the dust caps the grease that is not needed, thus leaving you with how much it "wants".
When it comes to wheelbearings, you CANNOT over grease.
MANUAL STATES: "service" wheelbearings every 3rd oil change to ensure no water or dust has entered/adequate grease is present.

okay, so the wheelbearings are in and its time to bolt em down.....
tighten the spindle nut hard, not hulk hard, just hard, try to turn the disk about 1/4in DO NOT SPIN IT VERY MUCH... it should be VERY stiff and NOT spin freely. (if u spin it alot like this u can score the races)
you have just seated ur wheelbearings...now lets make them spin like they should...
Back the nut off until loose, then retighten until it just barely snugs up.

this is where it gets tricky. if u ignored my advise and bought the cheap spindles your saftey pin holes are going to be off, sloppy, undersized and just a mess...

if you listened and bought jdm/s or groundforce, follow what the manual says, tighten the nut until its snug BY HAND and try to insert the saftey pins, if you cannot fit the pins in, try re-seating the bearings, if the pins will not go into the holes, back off the nut rather than tightening the nut to make the pin fit..

again, this isnot a step by step, just an idea, buy a manual. best place to buy manuals: yard sales. u can find us printed 70's manuals that tell u secrets a Chinese Chilton manual has never herded of. ...

to be continued....

[Mrknowitall]

In conclusion; I hope this becomes a sticky and no more questions are asked about spindle choice, even more so i hope this saves lives.

As ive said before I had a ball joint fail, is sent the truck into a spin, i instantly knew what happened and turned the wheel to correct but it didnt matter, that truck was going where it wanted to.
A spindle failure/ball joint failure WILL KILL YOU. IT WILL KILL AN INFANT CAR SEAT OR NOT. SAFTEY SHOULD NOT BE JOKED ABOUT. SPEND THE EXTRA MONEY, BUY QUALITY PRODUCTS. and even more so, use google! you will find tons of info out there, i am not certified, but have turned literally EVERY bolt on my 75. and friends 77. Valve stem to gutter bolts ive messed with it all.

So again, this is not a step by step, just some purchasing advise, and important tips to the install.

I hope you all are safe, esp. when removing the springs, and dont forget to have fun! Because when ur done u can say "ya, i did that, not a shop"...

final tip: dont leave the suspension at full up for a long time with tie rods attached lol////pic#5/////

in pic #6 you will see i had to use poly tierod dust boots sense i let it at full up too long and split the stock boots.

[B]TAKE EVERYTHING I JUST SAID AS A TIP, I DO NOT TAKE ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR ACTIONS, YOUR ON YOUR OWN. WORK AT YOUR OWN RISK WHEN IN DOUBT, CONSULT THE PROPER CERTIFIED PERSON(S)[/B]

[laid67]

Thank you for the great info sir, no longer considering the "cheapest" spindles i can find...

[Outlaw87]

Do you mean DJM?

I agree with you on not skimping on the quality of spindles. DJM and Groundforce are great, but there are other quality manufacturers out there.

I use Belltech, great quality and never once had a problem with there products.

I've never used these, but McGaughys and Western Chassis are also good quality that other members vouch for.
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[Mrknowitall]

Originally Posted by laid67

Thank you for the great info sir, no longer considering the "cheapest" spindles i can find...

no prob bob!

Originally Posted by Outlaw87

Do you mean DJM?

I agree with you on not skimping on the quality of spindles. DJM and Groundforce are great, but there are other quality manufacturers out there.

I use Belltech, great quality and never once had a problem with there products.

I've never used these, but McGaughys and Western Chassis are also good quality that other members vouch for.
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Yes! sorry, been on the computer all day, typeos all over.... forgot about beltech!!!

thanks for the info!

--its not allowing me to edit those post's now, idk why. that sucks.

[54Caddy]

I run 15s with a 3 inch DJM spindle, and 2 inch cpp coils up front did not have to do any clearancing at all. Hey mrknowitall have a picture of your truck im in visalia also.

[thesickc10]

i called djm to talk about options for my truck and they said that the 3" spindle is actually 2.5. its a hair over 2.5 so they call it 3 i guess to get ahead in the market but there is no physical way to make a 3" spindle for our trucks without it breaking.

[Mrknowitall]

Originally Posted by thesickc10

i called djm to talk about options for my truck and they said that the 3" spindle is actually 2.5. its a hair over 2.5 so they call it 3 i guess to get ahead in the market but there is no physical way to make a 3" spindle for our trucks without it breaking.

Wow. Thats very insightfull, thankyou!
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