Wiring questions

[Rufas]

I'm trying to keep the engine compartment on my 1970 GMC as uncluttered as possible. I've added four relay/circuit breaker protected circuits. One each for the air ride compressor, dual electric fans, in tank EFI fuel pump and the FiTech fuel injection unit.

All four of the circuits require a direct connection to the battery. I was planning on connecting all of these to the battery cable on the starter. Since all the relays and circuit breakers are mounted inside the cab I would like to use a fusible link for each circuit at the starter. I'm using a mini starter and have ceramic headers. There is plenty of room around the starter for the wires. Ceramic headers do help keep the heat down in that area but I still plan on a thermal wrap for the wires.

Does this sound doable or are there better ways? Keeping in mind I would like to have an uncluttered engine bay.

Thanks
Eric

[Wrenchbender Ret]

I like to use a junction block. They are used on all Chevy trucks from about 73 up. Run an eight gauge wire from the starter to the junction block & run fuseable links to 10 gauge wire for the accessories.

[VetteVet]

You might consider a wiring scheme such as this one. It allows a battery connection to all accessories and still achieves the most important factor of all.
The opposite of the common myth that everything is powered by the battery and the alternators job is to keep the battery charged. In fact the exact opposite is true. The battery is a reserve and all the electrical loads should be powered by the alternator.

You only need power from the battery for engine off needs. Ignition, fuel feed, injector function, and if you want to play with the air lift you would need a larger wire feed to the junction from the battery. Obviously engine starting as well.




you have a beautiful setup by the way.

[67 chevelle]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

I like to use a junction block. They are used on all Chevy trucks from about 73 up. Run an eight gauge wire from the starter to the junction block & run fuseable links to 10 gauge wire for the accessories.

This is what I would do also , with a buss bar like vetvet has posted

[pappy 2]

You could use an isolated terminal block.
Jeg's #555-10521 or American Auto wire #500155

[Rufas]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

You might consider a wiring scheme such as this one. It allows a battery connection to all accessories and still achieves the most important factor of all.
The opposite of the common myth that everything is powered by the battery and the alternators job is to keep the battery charged. In fact the exact opposite is true. The battery is a reserve and all the electrical loads should be powered by the alternator.

You only need power from the battery for engine off needs. Ignition, fuel feed, injector function, and if you want to play with the air lift you would need a larger wire feed to the junction from the battery. Obviously engine starting as well.

Attachment 1558779

you have a beautiful setup by the way.

I really like your drawing. It looks like a good way to go. Where would I get a 250 amp buss bar?

[kwmech]

Originally Posted by Rufas

I really like your drawing. It looks like a good way to go. Where would I get a 250 amp buss bar?

I've used this on a couple of my trucks,

http://catalog.foothilloffroad.com/p...oducts_id=1875

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by Rufas

I really like your drawing. It looks like a good way to go. Where would I get a 250 amp buss bar?

Thanks but it really isn't my drawing but it's a great way to upgrade the old wiring on our trucks. One thing that isn't shown is the battery cable to the starter. The large cable from the battery + looks like a 4 gauge which matches the alternator feed wire from the alternator to the junction block. That's plenty for engine off purposes but I would use a 2 gauge for the battery starter cable.

The originator of the diagram may have done this but just didn't show it in the diagram.

here is what I'm using and I like it really well. My neighbor works for the electric power co. and he gave it to me. Can't beat that.




I had to make jumpers for the power connectors but that was easy. There are fuses where needed.