Just Joined - Need Opinions on Purchasing a 1971 Blazer

[Justin G]

Hey Guys,
I just joined the forum after searching and looking at threads for several weeks. I was hoping to get some advice from any of you who will give it. I am considering buying a 1971 Blazer off of Craigslist. I wanted to know what you guys think of it and if it's worth what the guy is asking for it. It's not a cherry but it runs and will eventually turn into a project truck once I finish my home remodel.

Here are some details from the add:

This is an excellent running Blazer, has a rebuilt 350 four barrel engine with headers, and a turbo 350 transmission. Power steering, tilt wheel, Factory Air Conditioning , power brakes and all the gauges work. The speedometer shows about 10 mph slower than actual speed due to the larger tires. Transfer case and four wheel drive work fine, and it has lockout hubs option, front disc brakes option 2x4 to 4x4 transfer case shifting. It drives well, has plenty of power. Heater works good. Tires are in good shape with fair tread left on them. A/C compressor and rear seat is missing, eveything else is there. Dash is in good shape, door panels are OK. This blazer is tagged until August 2010 and driven daily, and I have a clear title in hand. $4500 cash.

Issues:
No back glass (also missing a hinge from the top), fair amount of rust in floor pans, rockers, bumpers, and a little on one of the doors. Not sure of any specifics about gearing/drivetrain.

What do you guys think. Any more questions I should ask or things I should find out before buying?

See more pics below.

http://s808.photobucket.com/albums/z...0Blazer%204x4/

[SeventyOne]

Looks cool to me but I like projects. It's going to depend on your skills and or how much $$ you want to throw at it - also what you want as the end goal. Be honest with yourself and then see if it makes sense to your budget and abilities.

That said I would offer the guy 2500-3500. Rust being the main deterrent and the missing hatch is huge.

Good luck.

[VA72C10]

I saw a truck in better body shape sell locally for under 2K recently but w/out an engine/tranny. However, you can find a cheap 350/350 combo on craigslist for around 500 or even a car/truck with it in there for that right now so the main thing to pay attention to me would be the body. I think you can do better price wise but if you like it, it's up to you. Those seats/console could be worth a lot restored but look VERY rough and might not be good restoration material.

[teeitup]

I've seen that one on CL its been for sale for 6 months atleast, I was wondering about the transfer shifter, it doesn't look right. I was wondering if its a 71 frame or running gear. I would ask him if the frame numbers match the vin and title. Also which transfer case is in it, it should by a 205. Make sure there is no above windshield rust and rocker boxes are good. I would say $3000 max for it. Good luck with whatever you decide

[Justin G]

Teeitup - Where did you see this posted for sale at? Oklahoma?

Don't have much experience with these Blazers or much body work experience period. Are the rocker boxes different than the exterior rocker panels? I'm assuming they are. I know the rocker panels have significant rust.

My intentions for the vehicle are to use it as a work truck while I finish my house and then someday restore/restomod it. I'm not worried about everything being original or there, but like you said SeventyOne, that hatch is a problem!

Thanks for the input. Anybody else chime in also.

[hgs_notes]

Just my opinion, and based on the pics, but I think it's worth maybe half what he's asking for it. For that kind of cash I think something nicer could be found. For a bit more money you could probably get something that is MUCH nicer. I'd bet that there isn't a rust free panel on the entire truck, once it was stripped or sand blasted.

[hgs_notes]

How about this? Needs work, but a lot cheaper.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevr...fCarsQ5fTrucks

This one is not that far away either.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1972-...item35a8379858

[teeitup]

yes Oklahoma. Rocker boxes are underneath right behind the rocker panels. If they are rusted badly the body will tend to bend. You can get into alot of bodywork on a blazer, high dollar money. As far as you not worrying about originality thats fine, but one thing you need to think about is if its a 73 and up undercarraige its not worth much, and putting a bunch of money into it would be a waste, because you'd never get it back out of it

[Firebirdjones]

If you look closely in the picture, you can see rust bleeding down just above the windshield. I'm willing to bet if you pulled that top off, you would find some major repairs necessary, and these pieces are not reproduced.
Those rockers are gone, as well as the driver side floor, which would make me worry about the torsion boxes behind it.

I'm betting there is alot more rust to be found when it's torn down to a bare shell. It's really up to you and what you want to tackle. I've done my fair share of rusty restorations for myself and other people. So I personally stay away from that stuff anymore and prefer to pay more money for a rust free starting point. You generally come out ahead down the road.

If you are willing to travel out west, there is plenty of rust free metal out here to be had. I've been traveling out here for 20 years from Ohio to buy rust free cars. Finally I said hell with it and just moved out here

[Firebirdjones]

P.S. He says he drives it daily. I would think that would be a bit chilly without the back window,,,,,judging from the snow on the ground

[lks dcvn]

Point Blank

Don't do it - not worth the money [regardless of location] if it were up to me.

I am finishing up the body work on a 72 blazer and from looking at the 'limited' pix of the truck - I can tell you that patch panels alone [will run you over $1000 before shipping].

I became a student of these things - looking at old builds, checking out pix of different angles, etc.

That truck is probably worth $1500-1800 - less if the chassis is from a 73+

If you want to eventually make it a project - start with something out West or South that is a driver and get it running and then enjoy it for awhile - if you buy the white one - you will have issues with rust when you pull the top [like the doors won't open/close].

Wait it out - don't be in a rush. I was eager to buy - but didn't want junk.

For $4500 cash you can have a nice truck delivered to you that is in decent shape.

A few options:

http://bend.craigslist.org/cto/1668548984.html

http://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/1669230320.html

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/1671808144.html

http://stgeorge.craigslist.org/cto/1663318780.html

http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/1665079112.html

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/1660124479.html

**Disclaimer** - I know nothing about any of these listed above - just trying to help.

[Longblock]

That scared me for a second.......mine is on CL in Dallas...... but doesn't come with any rust.....

[Tom Vogel]

NO. See what lks dcvn said.

My second opinion... NO.

[Justin G]

Thanks guys. I'll probably wait it out and find one that is at a better starting point. This one was appealing because I like the white, the fact it is running, and the lift. It is also located close to where I grew up so I was thinking I could visit home and pick it up while I was there. Oh well I'll find a better one hopefully soon.

Thanks again for the input guys.

Longblock - What are you asking for yours?

[DANTES JIMMY]

i was ok until i saw the door open pic
i agree with the other guys that dude is one rusty pig
now thats ok for the right price it can all be fixed
but you would end up with quite a bit of change in that dude
just to get it to a solid driver
ps: "daily driver" i doubt it but i have drove worse
you could find a much better start for that money unless he wants to go around 2-2500 i would pass
jmho

[71jimmy]

Dude, RUN, do not walk, away from that thing!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That thing has rust in places you can't see until you take evrything apart and by then it's too late your committed to a long and expensive re-build. I don't even think it would be worth buying, unless it's free, to part out. Look at the interior, tilt lever etc, it all has rust on it.

[Firebirdjones]

Originally Posted by 71jimmy

Dude, RUN, do not walk, away from that thing!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That thing has rust in places you can't see until you take evrything apart and by then it's too late your committed to a long and expensive re-build. I don't even think it would be worth buying, unless it's free, to part out. Look at the interior, tilt lever etc, it all has rust on it.

That's what I was thinking, I just didn't want to come out and say it.

I have to hand it to some of these guys though, I've seen some pretty crusty builds on here that are coming along.

[67/72junkie]

I agree with all the above.STAY AWAY!Keep and eye on craigslist CA, AZ,NM,NEV and you can find a decent pretty much rust free daily driver blazer in the $5000 range.When you find the one you like locate a local board member to inspect it for you.You can get a one way plane ticket to anywhere in the us for about $100 as long as you get it 10 days in advance. somewhere around the $400 range for gas back to TN with small block..IF you get it shipped probably $1000 to $1200 last time I checked.When getting a blazer or a sub you want to invest your money in the very best tub or shell you can find.Options,motors,fenders,doors,lift kits are all easily changed and added.Rust is a B%$#@ ,expensive to deal with and will keep your ride parked while trying to deal with it.

[Firebirdjones]

Originally Posted by 67/72junkie

I agree with all the above.STAY AWAY!Keep and eye on craigslist CA, AZ,NM,NEV and you can find a decent pretty much rust free daily driver blazer in the $5000 range.When you find the one you like locate a local board member to inspect it for you.You can get a one way plane ticket to anywhere in the us for about $100 as long as you get it 10 days in advance. somewhere around the $400 range for gas back to TN with small block..IF you get it shipped probably $1000 to $1200 last time I checked.When getting a blazer or a sub you want to invest your money in the very best tub or shell you can find.Options,motors,fenders,doors,lift kits are all easily changed and added.Rust is a B%$#@ ,expensive to deal with and will keep your ride parked while trying to deal with it.

This is correct. I did this for more than 20 years buying cars out west when I lived in Ohio. One way plain tickets are cheap. And I absolutely enjoyed driving accross country. I came out money ahead on everything I bought.
Rust free cars are more expensive East of the Mississippi because they are few and far between.
Out here West of the Mississippi they tend to be a bit cheaper, well, because there are more of them to choose from.

[Justin G]

Well guys, you've helped me make up my mind. I appreciate all the good advice. I'm going to start searching again.....this time out west!